Mi 16 Timing Belt Fitting

[craig_007 1]

I changed my cams today but for the life of me I cannot get the cam belt back on, I'm struggling to get anything into the 2 tensioners to slacken/tighten the bolt and how do I tension the belt when/if I manage to get it on.

 

Not much skin left on my hands as it is !!

 

If anyone has any tips for me I would be very grateful.

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

Have you changed the allen key bolts for normal hex bolts, makes life much easier.

[craig_007 1]

I've not but if I get them out I could do.

[James_m 0]

I never found this that difficult for once, but as J_T said change the tensioner bolts, for re-tensioning get an allen key of the relevant size grind 2 edges off so it fits into the tensioner and it makes the perfect tool for retensioning!

I like to do the bolts back up not overly tight, then just twist the tensioner with your new allen key tool to your desired tension and hopefully the tightness of the bolt will keep the tensioner where you turn it.. saves messing about trying to do both at once.... if that makes any sense, then of course tighten the bolt properly

[craig_007 1]

Yeah that makes sense thanks for that.

 

I'll just have to figure out what I'm going to get the old bolts out with now. I assume the only thing I will get in with will be an allan key ?

[James_m 0]

From what I can remember yeah allen key, don't remember being space for hex sockets, not in halfords kit anyway. If you get really stuck you could always take the engine mount off and drop/raise the engine to gain clearance

[craig_007 1]

I'll see how I get on the engine mount could be an option.

 

I tried a hex socket today but no chance.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I've fitted a hex drive from a multi purpose ratchet/screwdriver set into a small ring spanner before which is shallower and gives leverage.

Edited October 9, 2010 by DrSarty

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The sump plug drain tool is the same size as the tensioner, Use this and not the bolt as undoing it this way also releases the bolt

[Cameron 16]

I always use a long handled allen key to undo the bolt, then use a sump plug drain tool to adjust the tension. I find it's easier to get a good tension by just pushing on the sump plug tool by hand, then use the other hand to tighten the bolt. It's much easier if you make sure you can get the bolt tight in one go i.e. not taking the allen key out, it only needs to be undone 1/4 of a turn for the tensioner to move.

 

Ps - A Halfords professional 6mm allen key will fit in there just fine, and if you're having trouble getting the leverage slip a small diameter piece of tube over it as an extension.

Edited October 10, 2010 by Cameron

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The last one's I removed from a DES engine where so tight the stud came out with the Hex bolt which even on the bench nearly rounded off, God knows why they did them up so tight, so don;t worry if the Hex does round off as again I know most are not that good anymore,

The 13mm headed bolts are allot better and worth getting if you can

[Cameron 16]

I kinda remember GTi6 ones being a 13mm hex and still having the large flange, are those the ones you mean Miles?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Opps, I meant the Allen ones for the first 2, Sunday blues

 

But some of the Mi's had the large inbuilt flat washer with the Allen bolt (shallow) which are a right pain

 

All the GTi6's I;ve found so far touch wood use the proper bolt

[craig_007 1]

Mines has the large flat inbuilt washer with the shallow allan bolt.

 

I've got the tensioner at the altenator off now but the other is a no go, I've tried but the bolt seems to be solid and the allan key is just spinning !!

 

Anyone got any other suggestions ???

[hcmini1989 16]

Mines has the large flat inbuilt washer with the shallow allan bolt.

 

I've got the tensioner at the altenator off now but the other is a no go, I've tried but the bolt seems to be solid and the allan key is just spinning !!

 

Anyone got any other suggestions ???

hammer a torx bit in ,Or you a chisel on the bolt head to knock it round a little then use a torx bit in it to finish it off .

[Cameron 16]

That's going to be a bit difficult when you have about 30mm of room between the bolt and the chassis!

[hcmini1989 16]

That's going to be a bit difficult when you have about 30mm of room between the bolt and the chassis!

Drop the engine down aswell ,Allso depends how long the chisel is .I did mine the one on the front of the engine with the torx bit trick abit brutal but got it out and i put it back in .I cant comment about the one on the rear of the engine because mine came off but i would imagine you would get it with a chisel through the wheel arch with the engine lowerd of its mount might have to undo the one on the back of the engine aswell to get it down low enough.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

As in a previous post, use the square drive to get the tensioner off, works a treat

[craig_007 1]

I tried the square drive it did move the tensioner round but the bolt didn't budge !

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

I changed a cambelt, tensioner and a head gasket on a GTi6 engine in a 205. It tried my patience but I got there in the end!

[craig_007 1]

Thanks for all the info.

 

I got it out today with a cut down allen key with a 10mm nut welded to it.

 

The bolt was tight on coming out, I have now replaced these with 13mm hex bolts and a large flat washer.

 

All back together and timed up.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

How did you torque them up? Thinking getting a torque wrench down to tensioner looks very tight in space...