Can't Get Rebuilt 205 Running Correctly

[Artemide 1]

Hy,

 

It's been almost half a year since I finished ''repairing'' a 205 I bought a while ago. I had 3 partially complete set of engines and I build one together. Everything looks fine, all wires and hoses are correctly connected, all sensors are working and there are no air leaks, compression is great, but still the thing aint right. The only diagnosed problem is that the engine gets too much petrol. The car actually rides, but the amount of petrol consumed is enormous, from the exhaust comes black deadly fumes and the engine runs very incorrectly.

 

Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong( there could be some parts that are accidentally switched for the wrong ones during assembly).

[Artemide 1]

GTI 1.9 btw

[jackherer 543]

ECU temp sensor is worth swapping if you have a spare, has a blue two pin plug and is on or near the thermostat housing.

[boldy205 75]

Overfueling could be a engine temp sensor not working correctly, or bad conections on the sensor, or a break in the cable?

When i forgot to connect my temp sensor up on my 8v the engine thought it was VERY cold and dumped loads of fuel in, so thinking if its running, maybe the sensor is working but not correctly?

 

Matt

[Artemide 1]

Thanks for quick answers,

I'll check it out tomorrow

[Artemide 1]

There is a problem. I can´t check if my sensors( like ECU temp sensor and angine temp sensor) are working or not because I don´t have an electrical scheme for my engine.

I have the allmighty Haynes 205gti service&maintenance manual, but it doesn´t include my scheme. It means that I can´t measure my sensors resistance to find out if they are working correectly or not.

 

For help:

I have two ECU´s, which one should I use: 0 261 200 162 or 0 262 200 261

On my engine block there is written PTZ dfc and 1CW9B and 101050( some zeros could be mixed with o´s and vice versa).

Are there any other numbers that can be any kind of help?

[Artemide 1]

On my engine block there is written PTZ dfc

 

PTC dfz*

Edited October 7, 2010 by Artemide

[dino20vt 3]

I'd change the sensor and the spark plugs or atleast clean them as they'll be more than likely black and wet due to the over fuelling

[Artemide 1]

I'd change the sensor and the spark plugs or atleast clean them as they'll be more than likely black and wet due to the over fuelling

 

Spark plugs are new and they've gbot nothing to do with the overfueling problem. But which sensor you have in mind?

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

Cam timing?

[Artemide 1]

Cam timing?

 

I shall look into it

[Artemide 1]

How do I check belt timing?

[large 33]

Have a look at page 36 of your Haynes manual.

[Artemide 1]

Have a look at page 36 of your Haynes manual.

 

Isn't it Mission Impossible to check the timing when the engine is on? I mean I know it is possible to change the belt while the engine is fitted on the car( and it is a hell of a job), but there isn't any room to check the timing of the belt.

 

Besides, at some moments the engine worked a bit better and cleaner when I tried some aggressive accelerations, so I don't think and most certainly hope that that wouldn't be the case.

 

Does anyone have any other ideas?

[Artemide 1]

Update:

 

As I started using my brain yesterday, I figured out what the problem was.

When the car finally got assembled long time ago, there was a short somewhere which caused the starter to keep on running after the starting position in the ignition was released. I went the easy way of solving the problem and did as my electrician recommended. Somewhere under the dashboard there was a purple wire what ran from the wiringloom in the engineroom to the salon and then forward to the fusebox. In the fusebox there was a orange wire that I cut through and connected to the purple wire. Can't remeber exactly. Anyway solved the starter problem but caused another. The ECU thought the engine was starting all the time and so it forced extra fuel which is necessary for starting the engine. So what I did was that I restored the original wiring and added a switch to manually shut the starter off.

Took the car for a testdrive today and it ran pretty much as it should, however the engine needs adjusting. Since I've got three different gti's, there are many sensors and parts that predictably are switched(Like lambda etc.) Also many sensors still need connecting and checking for malfunctions.

 

Now I would like to acquire some mighty knowledge from you peugeot masters on what to check, adjust and how.

Also I would like to know that which ECU suits for my engine: 0 261 200 162 or 0 262 200 261 and that is there a difference in the knocksensors? I have a knock sensor which is mounted on the engine and I have a distributor that also has a knocksensor on it, however it is not connected. Actually all such basic ''must know 205gti knowledge/ things'' are pretty unknown for me so everyone are more than welcome to enlighten me. All that for the purpose of getting my Gti a real racer.

[Artemide 1]

it seems that currently the problem seems to be in the ingition. The exhaust shoots fireballs. How can I adjust the iginiton?

[smithy 1]

it seems that currently the problem seems to be in the ingition. The exhaust shoots fireballs. How can I adjust the iginiton?

 

in that case do as previously suggested and check the cambelt is timed properly and then get the ignition timing checked.

 

Also when it was rebuilt were the valve clearences checked/adjusted

Edited November 1, 2010 by smithy

[Artemide 1]

in that case do as previously suggested and check the cambelt is timed properly and then get the ignition timing checked.

 

Also when it was rebuilt were the valve clearences checked/adjusted

 

the valves were renewed and pressure level was rised

[Artemide 1]

UPDATE:

 

After so damn long time I finally decided to break the car totally down to find the problem. Turned out that was totally unnecessary because the problem lied in a mixed up sensor connection. Temp sensor was not connected.

 

However, I built up the car again and tried to get it runnin'. Got the engine running by bump starting but poorly. Then I bought new leads and after that, I can't get the car running at all(with bumpstarting), not even a single cough. But what's weird, is that if I try to start up with the starter and spin it 10, 20 seconds or so, explosions exit my exhaust, but pretty rarely. Checked the sparks- great. Fuel pressure is great, took the injectors off and tried every single one out, all shot gas nicely(not sprayed however, if there is a difference). It seems that the gas doesn't reach the cylinders, because the sparkplugs are totally dry but not sure.

 

What the hell is going on? :S

[jackherer 543]

Take the distributor cap off and check that it and the rotor arm are all clean, dry and undamaged then check the leads are connected in the right order.

[Artemide 1]

Take the distributor cap off and check that it and the rotor arm are all clean, dry and undamaged then check the leads are connected in the right order.

 

If there's a proper spark the distributor has to be fine and the leads are connected as the picture shows on the distributor cap.

[Artemide 1]

No ideas?

[dcc 855]

spark/fuel/compression.

 

check afm isnt dodgey/kaput.

 

new ECU temp sensor.

 

ignition amp

 

cam timing

 

s*it fuel

 

take it to a f***ing mechanic.

[jackherer 543]

If there's a proper spark the distributor has to be fine and the leads are connected as the picture shows on the distributor cap.

 

If there is moisture or damage in the cap then the spark can follow that and go to the wrong plug causing backfiring etc.

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

I had good spark on an older 8v and later discovered the distributor was faulty and wasn't giving the spark when it needed to.

 

As for dcc's advice, I find that most mechanics our days don't like to touch our old, often bodged cars as it takes too much of their time and they can't charge as much as they would for a new car. I found soldering and mods in my Mi16 ECU, if I take it to someone to diagnose it and put it back to standard they'll surely charge me an arm and a leg.

 

Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a set of wire loom, ECU, distributor and AFM that are known to work from from a trusted forum member ? I'm sure lots of people on here have them lying around unused.

Edited March 19, 2011 by unariciflocos