Persistant Oil Leak (mi16)

[sport1901966 8]

Apologies to those that have already seen this in my project thread but I am hoping more people may see my problem here and be able to offer advice.

 

I have had a persistant oil leak from between the sump spacer and block, just beneath the oil filter mounting. I have resealed it on 4 occasions now, with the most ridiculous levels of clenliness and attention to detail, basically I am certain achieving a better seal is more or less impossible.

 

On my last attempt I had suspect oil was forcing its way out between the pump and block mating surfaces (blue circle), and as this surface of the block is the same surface the spacer mates against, the pressurised oil was proceeding to force its way through the spacer-block seal (green circle). Based on some advice from Matt of QEP I ordered a metal to metal flange sealant to ensure the pump to block joint was sealed as well as possible. I also took steps to be certain no bolts were bottoming out, meaning all the torque applied to the bolts was being used to clamp the pump to the block, and the sump to the spacer and in turn to the block. Even after this the leak persists.

 

I now have a new theory that oil could be forcing its way past the gold coloured plug shown in the image below, to the right of the blue circle. Is this something anyone has come across before and does it seem a likely cause? If so does anyone know if they are still available from Peugeot, or if I was to refit this with the appropriate loctite product/ptfe tape would that be suffucient to seal the threads?

 

Thanks for the help!

 

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

Is it always through the block-to-spacer mating face, and not the sump-to-spacer mating face?

 

Given the cleanliness of your block there, and the use of an appropriate sealer (all of which I do myself), I would come to the conclusion that your spacer was in some way to blame - can you check that the surfaces are truly flat on both? Maybe worth trying a new spacer?

 

Even then, though (talking myself out of it) you'd think a decent sealant would be able to take up any irregularities in the surface other than a *serious* bow, crack or gap of some sort :-S !

 

You use the paper-type gasket between spacer and sump, right? The oil leak isn't between those two surfaces but is definately coming from the upper block-to-spacer join? Just be sure it's not dribbling down the block or dropping from something up top and sending you false signals, but it sounds to me like you've been very thorough up to this point....

[James_m 0]

I admire your persistance with this one, I'm not sure I would have had the patience especially with something as messy as a sump.

My only input is why not just try change the oil pump itself if it seems to be the problem, you could get one for pretty much nothing, I think I even have one in my shed you could have for postage!

[sport1901966 8]

It's definately the spacer to block joint, I even have video of it. I cleaned the area up and watched where it came through.

 

Brumster -

 

I had wondered about the spacer but putting a straight edge across it shows no significant bowing or warpage, and as you say, I would expect the sealant should cope with any minor surface variations.

 

I havent used the paper gasket as when I stripped the engine it didn't have one, and both the rebuild manual and gasket set instructions said not to with the aluminium sump. Although I'm pretty sure its sealing ok as the rear of the engine, where the sump-spacer-block mating surfaces are below the oil level, stay bone dry.

 

I'll certainly be checking flatness when it comes off again, if the weather ever sorts itself out (and uni work doesn't get to heavy as im now in my masters year).

 

James_m -

 

It's been a nightmare but its the only major thing holding me back from getting the conversion on the road. As I've read so many times before its the last 5% of the project that requires 95% of the effort to get done!

 

I'll keep that in mind as I am gradually exhausting all possibilities! For the moment I'll stick with this pump as it works well and the joint surface seems as good as any other would be. However I could be wrong in which case I'll be contacting you about that pump!

 

Thanks for the help guys its really appreciated, I so want to get this cracked (pun definately not intended.....runs off to touch wood!) sorted

[kyepan 291]

i have had a very similar problem, it was re-sealed several times, and kept leaking.

 

The only way i found was to over-torque the bolts,

 

Previous to that i had used plenty of sealant, had it spotlessly clean, and left it overnight for the sealant to go off, flattened the surfaces with wet and dry.. etc etc etc.

 

I share your frustration, and was not happy that i had to over torque it, but it was the only solution.

 

I would suggest (if you are comfortable with it) torque to standard setting, leave overnight, tweak up a bit more.. then fill with oil.

 

J

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

Apologies, thought you was using tin sump. If you've got an alloy sump, though, why the spacer as well? Is this a deep-sump setup then, I take it?

 

Anyway, point is irrelevant, as you've confirmed it's not leaking through that anyway

 

Good luck!

Dan

[sport1901966 8]

Apologies, thought you was using tin sump. If you've got an alloy sump, though, why the spacer as well? Is this a deep-sump setup then, I take it?

 

Anyway, point is irrelevant, as you've confirmed it's not leaking through that anyway

 

Good luck!

Dan

 

I may be wrong, I thought the finned sump was aluminium and the flat bottomed sump was tin?

 

I haven't tried slightly over torquing the bolts, I give that a try on the next attempt as well thanks.

 

Geoff

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

Yes, that's right. I just thought all the alloy sumps were deeper anyway so didn't need the spacer, but I could be wrong - don't take my word for it. I guess they wouldn't include the cross-bracing of the spacer so might be needed for strengthening the bottom end of the block still...