Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
peter

Cams, How To Tell The Difference?

Recommended Posts

peter

I currently have some 'fast road spec' cams in a 2.0 mi16 at the moment but have no idea if they actualy are. I was just told this when i bought the engine. There are no markings on them at all.

 

So how can i tell what they are? Is there any way i can measure the lift/duration/overlap? Should there be any markings on them?

 

thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

Normally std, the term'Fast Road' etc can mean anything, Drive you car fast on the road and they are Fast Road cams

 

But if your lucky they might be regrinds if they have no markings on them, I guess you have looked on both ends of the cams where the wheels are

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

Yes, you can measure them, but it's quite difficult in the car. You need a dial indicator/magnetic base/degree wheel etc. If they've been reground they'll usually have a marking stamped on the end. I engrave a grind number on mine, usually the pulley end. Otherwise, if they look like standard cams (visually) they probably are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
peter

Haha, then my diesel must also have a fast road cam :D

 

But seriously there are no markings in them at all.

 

I have a degree wheel and a dial gauge, so i supose i could measure the lift and duration like that now you mention it.

 

I hope they aren't standard for the sake of the person that sold them to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

People often put this sort of s*ite (fast road cam, balanced bottom end etc) into for sale adverts as there's little or no way of proving it without taking the engine apart. You can measure them by getting a DTI on one of the cam lobes, perpendicular to it in the centre of the base circle - so the needle is vertical and you're measuring the "valve closed" section of the cam if that makes sense. Zero the gauge then turn the engine over 'til the gauge reads maximum, and that will be your valve lift. Duration can be measured at the same time with a timing wheel, just mark the angle where the DTI gauge starts to move and where it stops. Compare both of these to the standard values and that will tell you whether the bloke was a lying toe-rag.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

All I will say is, you will need to be accurate with your measurements to be able to determine if they are different or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
peter

Esay peasy, i will do this at the weekend when i get back!

 

If they are non standard cams i will then be trying to find some info on them on how to set them up.

 

Quite looking forward to it actualy!

 

thanks!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DrSarty

I reckon you'll regret saying that!

 

Even OE cams have some markings on, on the hex portion with a pitted surface. If you don't then they're likely to be aftermarket.

 

Catcams have a 6 or 7 digit number engraved between 2 lobes. But you're gonna struggle to see these in the car covered in oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
peter

I can sharp whip the cams out, but from memory when i had the rocker cover off the last time i recall 219 or somthing like that in the casting.

 

Any ideas? Standard cams probalby...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×