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205*31*

Engine Mount Help

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205*31*

Wish I left this now :)

 

Well I have had ago at changing the engine mount managed to get the casing of and the mount out but now the engine has seemed to move quite far back and its way out of allign to get casing back on ;) not sure what the hell to do now :D

 

anybody any suggestions.

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welshpug

push the sump forwards again :)

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205*31*
push the sump forwards again :)

 

how i do that welshpug?

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205*31*

confused??

 

I got my jack under sump but when I higher it now it moves engine back and when lowering it not to floor obviously it just doesn't line up :)

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Tom Fenton

Assuming you have the geabox mount (battery tray) and top engine mount (near cambelt) attached, you should be able to shove the engine about enough to get the rear lower mount bolted onto the block and then lined up with the "fork".

 

If you are trying to do it without the top mount (cambelt) attached then it will be awkward.

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Simes
If you are trying to do it without the top mount (cambelt) attached then it will be awkward.

 

and quite possibly dangerous.

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205*31*
Assuming you have the geabox mount (battery tray) and top engine mount (near cambelt) attached, you should be able to shove the engine about enough to get the rear lower mount bolted onto the block and then lined up with the "fork".

 

If you are trying to do it without the top mount (cambelt) attached then it will be awkward.

 

Alright Tom I have cracked it don't know how but I done it :lol:

 

Well all I did Tom was get a piece of wood (which was alittle too big to be honest) and place it on jack and jacked it up on the sump not too high then just started undoing the bolts for the top mount casing 4 of them.

 

After I had got these of I tweaked the jack to get the casing of as it was stiff couldn't just pull the case of required some hammering to shift then it just suddenly came lose and popped of. Next I got a screw driver and banged the mount itself out anticlockwise and then just unscrewed it, removed the buffers and like to say the buffer at back of engine is a basteward to get to :( got them of.

 

Now I got my new group n mount and buffers screwed the mount in clockwise till tight and popped on the buffers, and now for next probably 2 hours been trying to line it up into casing, in the end I managed to do it with a wheel jack under what I gather was the lower engine bush and my trolley jack under gearbox end this pushed engine forward highering and lowering these I have got it back in! :lol:

 

Now I got to tackle the gearbox mount at some point hopefully be easier :)

Edited by 205*31*

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Tom Fenton

So you are on about the upper engine mount then, and not the lower bush.

 

Not sure what you have been doing, but I can swap that mount in about 10 mins.

 

If you struggled with that one then I don't recommend you attempt the lower bush, as this is definitely more difficult.

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205*31*

:lol: :lol:

 

No not the lower bush Tom I was doing the upper mount, god lower requires taking driveshafts out doesn't it? Don't think I am gonna attempt that mate :P

 

Yeh I was hoping for about 10min myself probably 30min for me first time but not like 4 hours :(

 

So what would have been the easiest way to do upper can't understand how I had so much trouble lining the threads for casing :)

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Tom Fenton

You do have to pull the engine about a bit to get it lined up, but it really isn't usually that difficult at all. The trick is to only "just" take the weight of the engine on the jack.

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205*31*

just had a look at the haynes am I right in saying those 4 nuts on upper mount should be done up to around 34nm doesn't sound a lot that.

 

cheers.

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205*31*
You do have to pull the engine about a bit to get it lined up, but it really isn't usually that difficult at all. The trick is to only "just" take the weight of the engine on the jack.

 

Maybe thats where I went wrong then I highed the jack pretty high so when casing popped of knocked all engine back causing ball ache :lol:

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Simes
:lol: :lol:

god lower requires taking driveshafts out doesn't it? Don't think I am gonna attempt that mate :)

 

It is possible to do it with removing anything except the fork and bolt and the actual bush itself - I've proven this on more than one occasion, in fact it took me around 75 minutes last time to exchange.

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welshpug

takes less than that when you remove the driveshaft though !

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Simes
takes less than that when you remove the driveshaft though !

 

Does it?

 

It takes me around 30 minutes to remove a driveshaft - factoring in getting the car in a position to do so.

Then it takes sometime to remove the bracket from the crankcase

Then it takes time to go to the garage, watch them or wait for them to press the bush out and press the new one in.

Then it takes all that time to resassemble, plus you may need to replace the driveshaft seal and you'll need time to refill the gearbox oil. Then you wait for it to settle - then you have to double check the oil levels are ok again.

 

So essentially 75minutes to complete the job is far quicker than when doing it by removing the drive shaft.

 

:lol:

Edited by Simes

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welshpug

well it took me a lot less last friday, but I was doing it in a friends workshop.

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Tom Fenton

I reckon it would be something similar time wise. But far easier to stand at the press and fit the new mount than struggle and swear trying to bash the mount in square under the car. But then I have a press in the garage so I would say that.

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