[engine_work] Project Pugwash - 2.0l Turbo Conversion 205 Gti

[mannings 1]

Right has been a while since we had posted an update on the Pugwash but this is more down to the lack of functioning computer at home rather than lack of progress. In actual fact we have been cracking on well. So here goes;

 

We had concerns of the proximity of the fuel lines that run up from the back of the car right next to the turbo so decided to get some high temp braided line that can take up to 283 degrees C according to the website, so should do. Expected this job to be simple but the stuff we used was so hardcore that I stabbed myself so many times with the frayed ends and ended up with finger tips that looked like a pin cushion!!

Still the outcome was good with the feed through the fuel filter (which needs replacing) and return all covered.

 

See tightness of fuel lines next to turbo:

 

Feed into and out of moved fuel filter:

 

Feed into rail and return back to tank (had to use slightly bigger braid for this immediate return for some reason was bigger, not sure why, however returned to normal after diaphram thing):

 

Next we went to fit a strut brace to make sure it fitted before we started to route the inlet piping but alas it fouled on the standard 406 turbo inlet piping we were going to use, so as seems to be our standard answer on this project we cut it off and would work it out later!!

 

See fitted strut brace and cut down inlet piping:

 

Next we looked at the boost piping and decided we had to finally spend some money, so off we popped to Burton Power in Ilford to have a nose around and see what they had. Great guiys there and took us right into the underground store rooms to see what we needed. Got two Samco 63mm 90 degree bends, plus a metre of 63mm Stainless so we could get the cut down 406 boost pipe to the cossie intercooler.

 

Worked perfectly and is officially 'My First Samco' ahhhh !! Check it:

So thats one side done!!

[mannings 1]

Started a new reply so could post more pics without just using links as a pain in the arse for people trying to scan through threads!

 

Next we had one of the major issues, how the hell to get the charged air from the intercooler into the throttle body. It was so close together and once we had seen the options from Samco at Burton realised no standard pipe would do it. Also tried to construct a bend with the stainless pipe but this also failed as not got the right tools to properly make and weld a sweep that needed to be so tight. Then one evening criusing around ebay looking for bits we found ASH 63mm flexible silicone hose from Autoperformance. Stuff looked good and was capable of handling 1.6 bar so enough for our engine. So bought a metre for only £16 and gave it a go. Results where that it worked however the bend raduis was really pushed to the max of the ducting, hence the very long sweep you see in the pics. But at last the charged side of the engine is complete. A big day we felt.

 

Odd looking pipe I know but not all together bad, would prefer the slick look for proper Samco but wasn't going to fit:

So one officially connected Intercooler, well happy:

 

When we bought the flexible ducting from autoperformance on ebay we also got some cheap ASH breather filters for the idle control intake requirement and the crank case breather that comes out of the oil filler can. So we cut down the original piping and connected them up. Love the look of the little blue filters.

 

The idle valve air intake assembly:

 

The oil breather assembly:

 

And both together:

 

Finally one of the key items that we need to fix from our 'cut it off' mentality is the front brake lines. Have found a good site where we can buy all the components needed to re-make the lines see link http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...pipe/brakes.php. Got some good other stuff on this sitel and all seems reasonably prices as well.

To give me an idea we took out the old brake lines to have a look, see below:

 

 

So we are finally coming to the wiring, have been doing quite a lot of work on this and have got my head round it and once I have the engine running I will publish on here my wiring diagrams that combine the 406 and 205 looms using the actual wiring diagrams as have not yet found a complete guide to this on the forum yet, so thought I would do my bit and put something on here once we have cracked it.

 

Hopefully the next update will be the wiring complete, thanks for reading!!

[jonnyturbo 3]

what mm are those little air filters?

[mannings 1]

what mm are those little air filters?

They are 12mm which is small but the outside diametre of the air filter collar fit perfectly inside the standard 406 pipe. Its not going to have to take much pressure so given. its a snug fit should do. They were only £4 each on ebay from Autoperformance so can't go wrong really

[grantley1988 1]

I don't suppose you have the link for the flexi hose?

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

They were only £4 each on ebay from Autoperformance so can't go wrong really

 

I bought one of these a while back and it rusted in about 10 minutes

 

Where abouts is the rad going mate? can't really tell how much space you have from the pic.

[mannings 1]

I don't suppose you have the link for the flexi hose?

 

Have looked on ebay for the link but can't find it. Below is the ebay shop I bought it from which should help if you give them a ring and the AutoSiliconeHoses is the manufacturer but they seem not to have any listed, could be end of line?? Be annoying if it is as we need more for the air filter ducting and would really like the same stuff, let me know if you have any luck please mate

http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/autoperformancesiliconehoses

[mannings 1]

I bought one of these a while back and it rusted in about 10 minutes

 

Where abouts is the rad going mate? can't really tell how much space you have from the pic.

 

Ah rubbish, oh well maybe I should stop being such a bargain hunter !!!

 

See location of rad to intercooler (where the filters sit behind). Out of interest why do you ask? Should it make much of a difference???

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Ah I see now, one of the earlier photos it looked like there was no room for the rad but looking at your last pic there clearly is

[mannings 1]

Well has been a long time since last updated the blog, due to the long time since we actually did anything, boooo.

 

But we cracked on this weekend and fitted some bits that I have been building up.

 

Picked up a Blitz dual port dump valve off ebay and fitted to this standard 406 boost pipe where I assumed the standard pressure relief valve was. See below.

 

Next we made up some mounts and fitted the 170mm rad fans procured from good old ebay again. I'm happy with the fit of the fan but concerned it is rather small compared to rest of the rad so its cooling potential might be limited, will see though. If get over heating issues and fan can't hack it will add another one on other side.

 

We then finished off the air intake pipework as purchaseg a new filter, samco elbow and some ducting to build a cold feed which we plan to mount into the fog light aperture on the bumper once back on. All fitted nicely and I reckon the sweeping pipework looks pretty good.

 

 

Our attention then starting looking at the wiring that I have been putting off but its all thats left now. I had mounted the ECU on the side of the battery box but this meant extending the loom and wasn't happy with it. So we decided to move the ECU to next to the brake master cylinder and worked well.

 

 

 

Off to Le Mans this week to hopefully watch the Pug 908's take a victory so won't be doing anything for a week or so. Got a donor loom from friend and tips from Daviewonder so hopefully get car started in the next couple of weeks.

Edited June 5, 2011 by mannings

[mannings 1]

Has been a while since did an update so here goes.

 

Have fitted from new brake lines as the old ones were very corroded. Started on the wiring now to see if can get the beast started.

 

For the wiring I have reviewed many threads on this forum and poured over different diagrams and info I could find. Initially I started with a guide from Daviewonder and this helped but found that analysing the diagram against the 406 engine and main loom was the best way forwards. I am just about to build a support loom for the engine from the donor car loom and interface this as required to the 205 wiring. From the diagram I reckon this should include the maxi fuse box, fuse box, bridge block, inertia sensor, vehicle speed interface module, diagnostic connectors, purge canister, coded keypad & the blue and brown connectors which interface with the engine loom. And with links to 205 as required.

 

I have a few questions though which would appreciate some help on:

 

1. The inertia sensor is on the 406 loom and could use in the support loom as I call it, but would it be better to use the 205 inertia switch with I believe I have found in the nearside wing by the horn, any suggestions?

 

2. Is it OK to leave the Purge Canister off as I don't have room, or could I leave the soleniod attached so that it doesn't mess up anything?

 

3. Do I need to Vehicle Speed Interface Module? I assume not as this look like signals go into the instrument panel which of course is different on the 205.

 

4. I don't seem to have an oxygen sensor anywhere at all, I have found the connector but no wiring or sensor, has anyone got one for a 406 turbo lump or where I can get one

 

5. Also I have a sensor that I can't work out what it is. It has a hex head with connector attached and looks like copper approx 150mm in length. It has a 10mm diameter with a silver plunger in the tip that pushes down. It looks like it had an oily past so thinking engine or gearbox related and is located just off from the ignition applifier module but have no clue what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

6. I have worked out the wiring for the radiator temp sensor and rad fan, can I use this as is in 205 or do I need to interface this to the 406 ECU somehow? I hope not.

 

7. Can anyone point me in the direction of a wiring table for the 205 GTI 1.9 as all the original wires have been cut from the original connectors. I also can't see any numbers on the wires. Is there a colour code guide kicking around??

 

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for any help

[mang 3]

I have plumbed one of my rads in just like this it is fine when moving keeps nice and cool but i would not chance a fan that small to keep it cool i had an 8" on mine and it kept it at temp but did not cool it down.

[dave205 19]

Mate I'm sorry it was me being retarded, that pic was the way I had planned it using a different distribution block

 

I'm really sorry for the confusion, heres the REAL diagram-

 

 

I made up the T piece using copper pipes from a plumming merchant.

 

I'm sure that pipe in the other pic is for the purge canister but don't take it as gospel, I have a really awful memory due to doing lots of stuff that I shouldn't have done when I was younger

 

On the plus side it looks like its comming on really well mate.

 

 

Im currently doing a trubo conversion and have been looking in detail at this thread, but can not for the life of me understand why there are two stabbings in the line from the matrix back to or should i say after the thermostat housing, why isnt there one hose? and just simply blank the other one off?

Am i missing something obvious here?

[mannings 1]

I have plumbed one of my rads in just like this it is fine when moving keeps nice and cool but i would not chance a fan that small to keep it cool i had an 8" on mine and it kept it at temp but did not cool it down.

Yeah I have been worried about that ill be honest, especially as we have to pass an MOT pretty much straight away so will have to be able to regulate itself with no air flow. Going over today to finish wiring so will have a look at this. Thanks for the advice

[mannings 1]

Im currently doing a trubo conversion and have been looking in detail at this thread, but can not for the life of me understand why there are two stabbings in the line from the matrix back to or should i say after the thermostat housing, why isnt there one hose? and just simply blank the other one off?

Am i missing something obvious here?

 

Hi mate, glad the thread has been of some help. Going over today and will have a look as been a long time since we did the plumbing. When you say matrix do the mean the heat transfer matirx inside the car that allows the heaters to work or do you mean something else. Not sure I exactly know what you mean but will have a look, take some pics and see if I can help.

 

Bring on the wiring, hahaha !!!!!

[dave205 19]

Yeah its been good to look at to see were you've mounted stuff. Yeah i do mean the heat transfer matrix yeah.

Pictures would be greatly appreciated please!

 

Im leaving my wiring till last, im going to do enoughto get it to run then wrap and tidy it afterwards once everything else is fitted and done. Ive tagged and flagged all the cables already its just a case of cutting to lenght and soldering.

 

How much have you got left to do on your conversion?!

[mannings 1]

 

Yeah its been good to look at to see were you've mounted stuff. Yeah i do mean the heat transfer matrix yeah.

Pictures would be greatly appreciated please!

 

Im leaving my wiring till last, im going to do enoughto get it to run then wrap and tidy it afterwards once everything else is fitted and done. Ive tagged and flagged all the cables already its just a case of cutting to lenght and soldering.

 

How much have you got left to do on your conversion?!

 

Looking at mine yesterday the way we have set up our heater matrix as follow:

 

From the water pump housing pictured below the top larger pipe travels along the back of the engine block in metal pipe and then goes into rubber housing which goes inside car.

 

 

This then comes back out of the heater matrix and routes underneath the header tank into which we have added a T piece and then follows onto thermostat housing, I'll take better pictures today as heading back over.

 

 

Sounds like its going will mate, you got a build thread I could read??

 

Progress and plans wise see update below

[mannings 1]

see below

Edited January 15, 2012 by mannings

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

then asssumed the two white wires were the sensor signal lines (406 Loom Ref 130 & 131).

 

 

You have assumed wrong. The two white wires are the heater for the sensor, live and earth, doesn't matter which way. Black is the signal to the ECU. Grey is Earth.

 

2 mins on Google would have shown you this.

[mannings 1]

Right some more updates on the Pugwash.

 

First off we had to dig out the pug from the garage where it is being kept

 

I'm sure I left a 205 in here somewhere, hahaha

 

 

In preperation for getting the wiring done we wanted to oil the engine and turn it over to make sure some oil at least was in the top of the engine when it starts. Poored some oil direct onto the Cam and put few litres in the sump, however the dipstick shows nothing, any ideas why?

 

 

Then needed to fit the Oxygen Sensor recently purchased, however sensor wires were not colour matched to engine loom connector, so we checked the earth on the sensor by buzzing out the sensor body to 4 wires, ended up being Grey for Earth (406 Loom Ref M135), then asssumed the two white wires were the sensor signal lines (406 Loom Ref 130 & 131). That just left black sensor cable which we attached to power (406 Loom Ref 123)

 

 

I am concerned about the proximity of the sensor body to the heat sheild and was really tight getting it in there. Going to lool at it today, but not sure what option I have got, I have bent back the sheild as much as I can, hmmm not happy. Wonder if you can get Oxygen sensor with shorter body??

[mannings 1]

Then I came home and decided to start on the loom. My plan was to take the 406 wiring diagram http://peugeot.mainspot.net/wiring406/index.shtml and build an interface loom between the 406 engine and loom and the 205 car and loom. From the diagram I needed to recreate the element of cable reference 10PR. What I didn't realise was that these items I needed were spread across the entire car loom which is massive, however with a bit of digging and checking of wire idenifications I was able to identify the 10 PR component parts I think I need. They are

 

Maxi Fuse Unit BMF01

23 Way Brown Connector IC02A

23 Way Blue Connector IC028

Diagnotic connector C001

Inertia Switch 1203

Bridge Block B001 - Little Grey Box

Coded Key Pad 8200

Purge Canister 1215 - Solenoid Only to stop error code on ECU, actual canister has been disposed of

Vehicle Speed Interface Block 1625

Fuse Box BF01

 

& Parts from BF00 Fuse Box Passanger Side (but not all of it and not in picture below as ony realised last night!!)

 

I have built the loom and tried to highlight what is what by working roughly in clockwise motion from the top with Maxi Fuse Unit being roughly at 12 o clock running down the list above

 

 

I am off to car today to work out the interfaces between this loom at the car, should be fun and I expect I will be updating this tonight.

 

So jobs to finish the project then as not too far off:

 

- Complete Auto Bonnet primer and spray and fit (doing matt black in preparation for Carbon Vinyl wrap) - Today

- Finalise wiring to 205 interface and buzz out suitable instrument panel and fuse box connections - Today

- Complete wiring and get running

- Tidy up wiring by crimping all connections then place into sealed box with required connectors mounted in box

- Fit alternator belt

- Get new tacho cable as ours was damaged so unable to use with new dual output VSS we have purchased, may do this after MOT depening on cash

- Bleed Brakes, Oil filter and flush

- Fit new steels and tires ready for MOT as current speedline tyres are cracked and stood for3 years so need changing

- MOT !!!

Edited January 15, 2012 by mannings

[mannings 1]

You have assumed wrong. The two white wires are the heater for the sensor, live and earth, doesn't matter which way. Black is the signal to the ECU. Grey is Earth.

 

2 mins on Google would have shown you this.

 

Thanks very much, will change round today

[dave205 19]

Your water pipes set up sounds similair to mine, how many connections do you have on the header tank?

 

I need to start a build thread really, i just havent had chance. My garage looked like yours until christmas but ive got it sorted and made some progress in the last couple of weeks. Next jobs for me are air filter and hosing, fit all water hoses and fill up and then fit the passenger drive shafts and hubs.

 

Do you need all those different thing to get the car to run? I was simply going to splice the brown 205 multiplugs onto the 406 engine loom, add earths and power and alternator and starter cables and hopefully it'lll run?!

[mannings 1]

Your water pipes set up sounds similair to mine, how many connections do you have on the header tank?

 

I need to start a build thread really, i just havent had chance. My garage looked like yours until christmas but ive got it sorted and made some progress in the last couple of weeks. Next jobs for me are air filter and hosing, fit all water hoses and fill up and then fit the passenger drive shafts and hubs.

 

Do you need all those different thing to get the car to run? I was simply going to splice the brown 205 multiplugs onto the 406 engine loom, add earths and power and alternator and starter cables and hopefully it'lll run?!

 

I have the one over flow wth a pipe dropping down onto floor, one smaller pipe which crosses the engine into the top of the rad, the one into the T junction from the bottom of the header tank and another which we need to close off before we can finish.

 

Wiring wise I'm sure your right mate, I read as much as I could and tried to understand it all but this is my first go at car electronic so found it tough. I am sure my approach is over kill but at least I know I have replicated what the engine says it needs. I got some good advice from people on the forum and have been checking my plans against this, however I thought that unless I understand what I am doing, I am never going to be able to fault find it should it not work. If it works then I can review the elements I have got piece by piece and reduce the amount of stuff in our loom.

 

Right off to car now so will let you know how I get on.

[dave205 19]

Yeah ok and dont forgot the pictures!