Starting Problems

[m@ttc 30]

Ok here goes, ill try to explain what has gone on the best i can. Ive recently changed the head gasket and allthough the car started, the starter motor sounded like a bag of nails, it was a brand new starter aswell cost me 50 quid. The next day I was loosing oil pressure, through the oil pressure switch, i took the alternator off and me being stupid didn't disconnected the battery and shorted the live wire onto the block for a short second , it was then i thought it would be a good idea to disconnect it . I removed the old pressure switch and orderd a new one. Whilst i waited for a new pressure switch i decided to fit my old starter moter back on, all seeming ok so far. When the new switch came i fitted it and tried to start the car. But all i got was the feul pump running constantly and nothing else no clicking of the starter coil, there was a relay in the fuse box clicking but not sure which one . Thinking i had disturbrd the brown multi plug by gearbox when doing up starter bolts i cut it out and soldered them together. then tried again but same problem . Tapped the tach relay for the pump and un plugged it and plugged back in. still same problem maybe this tachy relay is at fault??? For some reason now the pump is not running and the pump dont purge when the key is turned . I Decided to take the spade terminal off the starter motor to check for voltage and noticed the coil was extremly hot as it burned my fingers. Tested the spade for voltage when key turned but nothing no voltage coming out of the fuse board . plug D terminal 1. The starter coil was still getting hot with switch live dissconnected and only the battery connected, so i disconnected the battery so itll cool down. Tested the swich wire cable from coil with volt meter on ohms and got a reading of 55 ohms, im not sure but i didnt think this was right??? anyway this reading goes when the tachy relay is dissconected. I ve tested the brand new starter off the car and it didnt work got 12v across coil but nothing happens. Decided to take my old starter off the car to test it but being extreamly fustrated by now tried to take it off without removing the inlet manifold and found it impossible probly not my best idea (like arcing out the alternator) decided to strip the starter behind the maifold and remove it in bits, and lost the metal plate that sits on the rubber between the coil and the motor, so now i dont have a working starter.

Im thinking now that whe i arc across to the block with the alterator cable i may have dammaged the fuseboard, tach relay, starter? any ides whats going on and whats faulty? sorry about the long winded post

[large 33]

As regarding shorting the alternator, the large cable that runs from it is a direct feed from the battery so if like you say it was only for a second it should have not done any damage.

 

You could check the two fuses in the shunt box.

 

I was always under the impression that starter motor solenoid feed was straight off the ignition switch

And the fact that it is getting warm would indicate that it is getting voltage.

 

I don’t like to ask but have you double checked the battery polarity.

[m@ttc 30]

As regarding shorting the alternator, the large cable that runs from it is a direct feed from the battery so if like you say it was only for a second it should have not done any damage.

 

You could check the two fuses in the shunt box.

 

I was always under the impression that starter motor solenoid feed was straight off the ignition switch

And the fact that it is getting warm would indicate that it is getting voltage.

 

I don’t like to ask but have you double checked the battery polarity.

i guess it's possible i could have put the coil back on upside down, when i changed the brushes in the motor. that would make the battery feed cable on the other terminal on the coil, would this have the same effect? be the cause of the other problems? there's no swiched live feed when the keys turned looks like it's feed is off the key switch but for some reson goes into the fuse box and straight back out again maybe some one can clarify this.

[m@ttc 30]

As regarding shorting the alternator, the large cable that runs from it is a direct feed from the battery so if like you say it was only for a second it should have not done any damage.

 

You could check the two fuses in the shunt box.

 

I was always under the impression that starter motor solenoid feed was straight off the ignition switch

And the fact that it is getting warm would indicate that it is getting voltage.

 

I don’t like to ask but have you double checked the battery polarity.

i'd put the coil on the wrong way fitted new one and all is good now thanks for the help large! sometimes all you need is a fresh head to state the simple things and give your brain a bump