burr_2000 1 Posted July 15, 2010 is anybody using KAD adjustable top mounts? want to know a good starting position and pics would be helpfull, thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 16, 2010 (edited) phoned up KAD and spoke to dave who was very helpfull chap who races a 205. theres a line on there top mounts so looking from front to back on car. take the passenger side if line at 9 oclock its max camber and at 12 oclock max castor, so gonna set it inbetween. when i save up for adjustable arms and will just use top mounts to get castor Edited July 16, 2010 by burr_2000 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 16, 2010 Has anyone got any pics of ajustable mounts fitted to AVO coilovers, unsure if i need a spacer or not? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish210 20 Posted July 17, 2010 phoned up KAD and spoke to dave who was very helpfull chap who races a 205. theres a line on there top mounts so looking from front to back on car. take the passenger side if line at 9 oclock its max camber and at 12 oclock max castor, so gonna set it inbetween. when i save up for adjustable arms and will just use top mounts to get castor I've got mine set at about the 11 and 1 o'clock position as well. Need to get it on track though to see if it works properly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 26, 2010 ok cheers mark, what shock you running with? this is pics of my set up and because they are second hand it came with standard spring hangers instead of coilover hangers so sits wrongly on top mounts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 26, 2010 this is it sitting up against adjustable mount Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,645 Posted July 26, 2010 you need a different top spring pan. difficult to tell till you have the right bits, but the thread on the damper may not be long enough to accept that type of top mount safely without turning the shaft down if possible, to effectively lengthen the narrower section that sits in the bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 26, 2010 i phoned AVO and have ordered the original coilover spring retainers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,645 Posted July 26, 2010 (edited) also unless they have grub screws in the lower spring pan as a securing method, then the lockring is missing from them as well. Edited July 26, 2010 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
calvinhorse 870 Posted July 26, 2010 they have a grub screw but its s*ite, i used a second platform as a lock ring which works well, i asked avo about longer threads on the shafts, they said a new shaft fitted with correct lenght thread is £40 plus £20 for a service per side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 26, 2010 got a reply from nigel who was also helpful this was his reply i got after ordering. "what you have is the gtz coil-overs, twin tube type the alloy piece in the top mount is what we supply to take 2.25 springs with o/e top mount, the ones you have ordered will now replace that part and fit with bearing mounts, you will also need sleeves with your top mount which will sleeve down the bearing to fit with o/e stem mount, these should come with your top mounts that you have bought" can anyone tell me about these sleeves or a pic that would clear everything up. i thought this would be a simple operation but now it getting more akward. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 26, 2010 is the sleeves the nut on the top? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
calvinhorse 870 Posted July 26, 2010 no it sits in the top mount bearing to take up any slack between the leg and bearing, like a mushroom shape with a whole through the middle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 26, 2010 all you get is in the picture http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=300448396726 unsure what to do now then Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
calvinhorse 870 Posted July 26, 2010 the little black things in the top left of the picture,they are the sleeves. put the shaft into the bearing then put the sleeve in to fill the gap, if it does'nt fit then the centre of the sleeve will need machining to accept the treaded part of the shaft Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
calvinhorse 870 Posted July 26, 2010 just to add- if your thread does'nt go all the way through the sleeve and show enough thread to get your nylock nut on, you will need to have new legs fitted with correct lenght tread, avo told me £40 a side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SurGie 54 Posted July 26, 2010 Hi, Iv just looked on e-Bay and i am wondering which type of top mounts are the best ones to use and which ones are better used when having a welded top strut plate fitted ? Or is it a better choice to buy some of BBM top mounts ? THIS ONE. Or THIS TYPE. Any help appriciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,645 Posted July 26, 2010 they are much the same, just a different source, having a reinforced strut tower makes no difference as to which you'd choose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burr_2000 1 Posted July 26, 2010 ah ok cheers guys, they are M14 threaded sleeves that i was calling a nut, must be a different design to some? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
