Head Gasket Change

[m@ttc 30]

hi guys, i started the task of changeing the headgasket today amongst otherthings, and got as far as trying to undo the crankshaft pully bolt. Reading the haynes manual i've taken the clutch bottom shield off and jammed the starter ring. Trying to undo the pully bolt but it just wont undo , i've got a 2ft tube extention on a breaker bar and getting a mate to twat it with an hammer, to try and 'shock' it loose . The socket snapped was a cheap one but was six sided one so wasn't slipping off the bolt head as much as the other 22mm sockets i got. I can get some serious pressure on it but i'm sure the clutch housings gonna break on me, where its jammed with the screwdriver. Thing got me thinking am i meant to be turning it anticlockwise? why's it so god dam tight and how the hell am i gonna get it undone? any thoughts?

oh and the rear engine mount is totally shot making the engine move around excessivly when trying to turn the bolt head, i got a new one should i change this first? is it a big job getting the mount's housing off? i see the drive shaft goes through it, i know i gotta get the old mount out the housing then and get the new mount pressed in. Having another go at it tomorro morning.

[Masekwm 2]

Big screwdriver in the flywheel, decent socket, long breaker bar & extension. It's not easy to undo, then you need to get the pulley off.

[miamichris 9]

hi guys, i started the task of changeing the headgasket today amongst otherthings, and got as far as trying to undo the crankshaft pully bolt. Reading the haynes manual i've taken the clutch bottom shield off and jammed the starter ring. Trying to undo the pully bolt but it just wont undo , i've got a 2ft tube extention on a breaker bar and getting a mate to twat it with an hammer, to try and 'shock' it loose . The socket snapped was a cheap one but was six sided one so wasn't slipping off the bolt head as much as the other 22mm sockets i got. I can get some serious pressure on it but i'm sure the clutch housings gonna break on me, where its jammed with the screwdriver. Thing got me thinking am i meant to be turning it anticlockwise? why's it so god dam tight and how the hell am i gonna get it undone? any thoughts?

oh and the rear engine mount is totally shot making the engine move around excessivly when trying to turn the bolt head, i got a new one should i change this first? is it a big job getting the mount's housing off? i see the drive shaft goes through it, i know i gotta get the old mount out the housing then and get the new mount pressed in. Having another go at it tomorro morning.

 

You need an impact gun by the sounds of it to get that bolt off mate, could no one lend you one? Buy a decent impact socket too before you start.

 

The lower engine mount isn't too bad to replace, you need to remove the driveshaft though, don't forget to loosen the 11mm hockey stick bolts in the housing and rotate them out of the way so the shaft can be removed. And drain your gearbox oil first!

 

If I were you I would replace both the driveshaft seals and the oil (75W80 gearbox oil you need) when you're down that far, a couple of people on here sell the driveshaft seals in the group buys section I think.

 

Baker bushes & mountings (BBM) do a harder lower engine mount to replace your knackered one, otherwise go to peugeot for one. The housing is held onto the back of the block with a few bolts just, easy enough removed, a press will be handy for changing that knackered mount though! good luck

[m@ttc 30]

You need an impact gun by the sounds of it to get that bolt off mate, could no one lend you one? Buy a decent impact socket too before you start.

 

The lower engine mount isn't too bad to replace, you need to remove the driveshaft though, don't forget to loosen the 11mm hockey stick bolts in the housing and rotate them out of the way so the shaft can be removed. And drain your gearbox oil first!

 

If I were you I would replace both the driveshaft seals and the oil (75W80 gearbox oil you need) when you're down that far, a couple of people on here sell the driveshaft seals in the group buys section I think.

 

Baker bushes & mountings (BBM) do a harder lower engine mount to replace your knackered one, otherwise go to peugeot for one. The housing is held onto the back of the block with a few bolts just, easy enough removed, a press will be handy for changing that knackered mount though! good luck

i,ve got a new mount from auto 5 std. And i got a press at work so that's all good. Not gonna get a impact wrench for tomorro though, maybe if i heat it a little first? Anyway thanks for the tips on the drive shaft assembly. I think ill do the mount once the gaskets out the way. Anticlockwise is right isn't it i know most threads are, but some on the end of turnig things do go the other way so they dont come loose, and this thing aint gonna budge easyly id hate to find out it's a left hand thread.

[hcmini1989 16]

yes mate its standard thread just try leaving the bar on then hit the key when it turns the bar will jam on the floor or subframe and crack it off.Just if your going to use this method make sure your giving it little flicks on the key other wise it could snap your crank.

Edited June 26, 2010 by hcmini1989

[m@ttc 30]

yes mate its standard thread just try leaving the bar on then hit the key when it turns the bar will jam on the floor or subframe and crack it off.Just if your going to use this method make sure your giving it little flicks on the key other wise it could snap your crank.

fook!! This sounds drastic!! will it come to this i wonder

[welshpug 1,657]

common practice on Shoguns where you can't get an impact gun in without stripping the front end down

[hcmini1989 16]

common practice on Shoguns where you can't get an impact gun in without stripping the front end down

thats where i learnt how to do it i used to work for a 4x4 specialist and oddly enough the shogun was the first i did it on

[jonnyturbo 3]

fook!! This sounds drastic!! will it come to this i wonder

 

 

i had to do this, took a few times but worked in the end

[m@ttc 30]

i had to do this, took a few times but worked in the end

mmmmm now this has really got me thinking the arrows on my belt are pointing anticlockwise. If the belt was on correctly which presumed it was in the first place, which is was i asked/queried about it being a lefthand thread. Then this meathod will not work. As its got to work because people have used this meathod, the belt must be on wrong way round, meaning the engine rotates clockwise. Anyway will give it ago tomorro and let you know if it went ok or if the cranks bost

Edited June 26, 2010 by m@ttc

[Guest jammy205]

i love my impact gun

[m@ttc 30]

mmmmm now this has really got me thinking the arrows on my belt are pointing anticlockwise. If the belt was on correctly which presumed it was in the first place, which is was i asked/queried about it being a lefthand thread. Then this meathod will not work. As its got to work because people have used this meathod, the belt must be on wrong way round, meaning the engine rotates clockwise. Anyway will give it ago tomorro and let you know if it went ok or if the cranks bost

dumb ass, just rememerd i carried on stripping the head instead of wasting time on the bolt today. cannot try this meathod

[hcmini1989 16]

dumb ass, just rememerd i carried on stripping the head instead of wasting time on the bolt today. cannot try this meathod

is it a wet lined block? if so youre fooked and dont start touching it until the head is back on .If it is a normal block then as long as the heads off or camshaft is out so no valves are open you can still use this method

Edited June 26, 2010 by hcmini1989

[m@ttc 30]

is it a wet lined block? if so youre fooked and dont start touching it until the head is back on .If it is a normal block then as long as the heads off or camshaft is out so no valves are open you can still use this method

Don't know. when i say i carried on stripping it down i meant, air inlet manifod, injectors air ducts, dizzy, hoses, sad, themostate. starter motor (going to refurb it) etc etc. left cam and head alone till belt is off. I have a head that ive had the valves and seats done with new guides and a skim and want to put that on. So its a little bit of a bigger job then just head gasket change

[joe1joe 3]

crank it over on the starter with the socket and bar on the bolt to late now tho

[m@ttc 30]

Tried again today, jammed starter ring, had the the trolley jack lfting the breaker bar, till it had a nice curve in it (draper expert, dont rate these tools! even thou they have life time warranty). twated it with the hammer to shock it free, but no good just pinged loose off the bolt head. Never mind wont give up. Did manage to change gear box mount and top mount, and get bottom mount off the car all before the game god knows how i managed with those mounts 2 was split totally in two.

[m@ttc 30]

Ok i finally got the bolt undone. Changed all the engine mounts for standard ones mine were unbeliveably bad! They have realy stiffened up the engine in comparison. Removed starter motor and made a tool to jam the starter ring at work bolted it to the starter motor bolts. Put new socket on pully bolt + 2ft extention tube on a breaker bar, jacked it up with the trolly jack, twated it with an hammer, (3 attempts) bolt comes out, thank god. Think problems before was due to alot of the effort wasted throught the shot engine mounts. Still bloody tight though.