Cam Belt Change...

[gixxerash 0]

Hi there just a quick one i am about to have a try at doing a cam belt change for the first time today , and was wondering as it's my first belt swap would you pull the engine out or have a bash at it in the hole.

I don't mind pulling the lump out but if you have any tips of doing it in place that would be great.

 

Cheers Ashley.....

[Masekwm 2]

It's fine doing it with the engine in place, however ratchet spanners make the job far easier. Having a puller handy is worth it too

[gixxerash 0]

It's fine doing it with the engine in place, however ratchet spanners make the job far easier. Having a puller handy is worth it too

 

Thanks for reply yeah i have my rachet spanners, i might go invest in a puller any other items i will need.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Not a problem doing it in the car, just make sure every notch is lined up perfect and is still lined up perfectly when you release the tensioner on the belt, check, check re-check and check again before starting!! So easy to bend some valves

 

Good Luck

 

Unsure about the "puller" whats that needed for?! never needed such a thing myself unless im mistaken?! Can only think to remove the alternator belt pulley but this will slide off easy to show the cam belt pulley?!

Edited June 4, 2010 by wardy18

[gixxerash 0]

Right that does it for me in the car it is been looking at old post think i have most stuff apart from a t55 bit, 35mm socket. Right where did i put my halfords trade card it's shopping time.

 

P.s i will check, check and re-check i can't afford new valves haha.

 

Cheers Ashley.....

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

I don't think you will need a T55 or a 35mm socket to do the cam belt.

 

Off the top of my head you will need

 

21mm socket/spanner to undo lower pulley bolt and alternator top bolt.

10/11/13mm sockets/spanner/ratchet spanner for releasing alternator adjuster, removing cambelt covers, releasing tensioner.

8(or 7 can't remember) & 16mm spanner for tensioner adjuster.

16mm spanner/socket and 8mm hex key for engine mount bolts.

 

Basically if you have a decent collection of standard tools you should be fine. I can't think that there is anything that special required. I personally remove the alternator completely to make a bit more room, but you can do it without doing this.

 

A puller can be handy to get the lower pulley off on the 8v, sometimes they will slide off by hand, other times they can be tight.

Edited June 4, 2010 by Tom Fenton

[gixxerash 0]

I don't think you will need a T55 or a 35mm socket to do the cam belt.

 

That's good enough for me i'm going to have to buy the spanner for the alternater nut, as i can't get a socket down there darn 16v.

 

Cheers Ashley..

[welshpug 1,657]

emery paper and a sharp scraper, to clean up the gasket face for the new water pump

 

 

 

you didn't mention which engine you have by the way?

[gixxerash 0]

emery paper and a sharp scraper, to clean up the gasket face for the new water pump

 

 

 

you didn't mention which engine you have by the way?

 

Oh bugga that would help sorry it's the 1.9 Mi16.

 

and emery paper is on my list to

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Ignore the above list then. You really need to put in your post which engine etc you have when you ask questions.

[Anthony 1,003]

Regardless though, an Mi16 cambelt can also been done with the engine still in the car - infact, ironically, I found it easier doing an Mi16 cambelt with the engine fitted in a 205 than I did with it in a 405!

 

You will need to have slim hands to reach up to the exhaust side tensioner, and the belt cover is often a little fiddly to remove/refit if you're still running the standard fuel filter arrangement, but otherwise it's straightforward enough. I can't even remember what the 405 Haynes manual says, but I'm sure that it's probably accurate enough to follow.

[gixxerash 0]

Ignore the above list then. You really need to put in your post which engine etc you have when you ask questions.

 

Yeah sorry about that i forgot to pop that in

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Just hope that you;ve got 13mm bolts on the tensioner's, the hex ones can be a right pain.

But I;d say the 16v belt is easier than the 8v one

[gixxerash 0]

Regardless though, an Mi16 cambelt can also been done with the engine still in the car - infact, ironically, I found it easier doing an Mi16 cambelt with the engine fitted in a 205 than I did with it in a 405!

 

You will need to have slim hands to reach up to the exhaust side tensioner, and the belt cover is often a little fiddly to remove/refit if you're still running the standard fuel filter arrangement, but otherwise it's straightforward enough. I can't even remember what the 405 Haynes manual says, but I'm sure that it's probably accurate enough to follow.

 

Yeah i have looked at the 405 manual from here it looks easy enough but we shall see. Having small hands might be a problem though .

Still running the standard fuel filter but 1 of my mates said i might be able to undo the servo so i can jack the engine up and down to get to the part i need to fiddle with does that sound about right.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

i need to buy one of those tensioner tools with the square end on it for my new build

 

ive always had the older type tensioner on all my 205's with the spring, never used the newer type that you self tension then tighten

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

I found it easier doing an Mi16 cambelt with the engine fitted in a 205 than I did with it in a 405!

 

I'd agree with you on that one. I did my 405 Mi16 and it was a real pig of a job.

[gixxerash 0]

Right well here goes fingers crossed it all goes. Then i become a real man by doing a cam belt change

[powermandan 0]

Then i become a real man by doing a cam belt change

 

Lol, getting there but not quite. Gearbox change in the pissing rain on a gravel drive on your own, that pretty much makes you the Bear Grills of car mechanics

[gixxerash 0]

Lol, getting there but not quite. Gearbox change in the pissing rain on a gravel drive on your own, that pretty much makes you the Bear Grills of car mechanics

 

Haha yeah that is fairly hardcore. I opted for engine out as when i did the conversion there was a few bits i was unhappy with and it was easy to sort it with the lump out and was putting it back in yesterday when it was thundering and lightning under a metal gazzebo holding onto a metal engine crane, how that could of went very wrong lol. I did get a wet bum as the car was not far enough under the gazzebo so when i was on the front of the car the rain was running down my back .