[engine_work] 205 Gti 8v -> Mi16 Plus Some Other Bits.

[hexhamstu 9]

Thought I may as well start a project thread.

Plans are:

Fit mi16 engine

Fit rebuilt rear beam with gti-6 trailing arms (for some extra negative camber)

Fit xsara vts shocks front and back

Fit newish polybushed wishbones

Fit toad Ai606 alarm along with new central locking kit (OE central locking is very temperamental at the moment)

Fit new better condition 205 seats

Fit new discs and pads

Fit snap off omp steering wheel (for security)

 

Can't think of anything else so far.

 

Here is the car before work starts...

 

Yesterday I started by removing the bonnet and scuttle pannel, then started ripping out the old 8v engine to make way for the new mi16 engine! Also took the exhaust manifold off the mi16 engine for re-angling.

 

Here some photos of it as it stands now....

 

 

Will get more done soon!

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Good luck with the project. Your garage has a certain "Fred West's basement" look about it.

[hexhamstu 9]

Good luck with the project. Your garage has a certain "Fred West's basement" look about it.

 

Haha, the first picture makes the garage look huge, then I filled it with all my crap, and now the car only just fits in!

Edited June 3, 2010 by hexhamstu

[happygoron 2]

Is that all the air intake off I see?

 

Edit: And blood on the top of the engine dizzy side?!!

Edited June 3, 2010 by happygoron

[hexhamstu 9]

Is that all the air intake off I see?

 

Edit: And blood on the top of the engine dizzy side?!!

Yes, and no its oil The blood is well contained in that plastic sheet on the right!

[hexhamstu 9]

Did some stuff today, drained fluids and removed loom, radiator and radiator cowl. So the engine is clear to come out the top. Made a start on removing drive shafts but found that one of my axle stands is missing the little bar that holds them up. Probably go and buy some new ones tomorrow. GSF are selling some ratchet design ones for £14 which seems reasonable.

 

The usual rust areas of the car seem pretty good with only slight surface rust that will be sanded and painted at some point.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/hex...ct/P1010015.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/hex...ct/P1010014.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/hex...ct/P1010010.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/hex...ct/P1010009.jpg

 

Anyone know what this wire is? Comes out at the shunt box and they have been connected together.

 

 

Forgot to post this mystery yesterday, taking the inlet pipes off and found something hidden in the airbox. Dunno how the hell that got there!

 

 

Picture of how it stands at the moment.......

 

 

Taken some interior out..

 

 

Are these the washers that people remove to lower the seat slightly? Do you just replace them with a normal metal washer or smaller nylon one?

 

 

Washer bottle will be relocated to the scuttle panel and battery to the boot for more space in the engine bay.

 

 

I'm guessing the be1 clutch lever isn't supposed to look like this?

 

 

A guy passing buy stopped for a chat, turns out I'm not the only one working on a car in that alley. There are 2 spitfire rebuilds happening. He's rebuilding the engine in his and a bloke across the way is totally rebuilding his from the ground up, has sent away the shell for acid dipping and repainting.

 

Thats it for now..

[dcc 855]

thats exactly how a be1 clutch should be, who ever had that car before you obviously replaced everything properly when they changed the clutch, if they did

 

I love the f reg shells, almost no rust on them, your rust looks fine to be honest, almost nothing on comparison to the newer shells!

 

If I were you (knowing the ball ache of converting to be3 setup) I would be tempted to keep the be1 assembly, as Spiky has done. he is running about 150bhp atw (iirc) with no problems

 

I would recomend taking the arm off and give it and its bush (ooo err ) a good old clean

 

This, I hope, will not be a bodge like your last engine

[dcc 855]

not enough smileys in that last post so and

[hexhamstu 9]

I've got a be3 1.6 box sitting there, and I much prefer the 1.6 over the 1.9 box and even the 1.9box with a mi16 final drive. So I was hoping to use that. What needs to be converted for be3? can't I just leave the lift up reverse and everything there and use it as is (obviously reverse will be below fifth and I wont need to lift it up).

[dcc 855]

need be3 pedal, cable, box and lever, think thats it. oh and a be3 gearstick.

[welshpug 1,657]

that quadrant arm should not be bent like that

 

 

I hate 1.6 boxes.....

[hexhamstu 9]

that quadrant arm should not be bent like that

 

 

I hate 1.6 boxes.....

[hexhamstu 9]

need be3 pedal, cable, box and lever, think thats it. oh and a be3 gearstick.

I'm just going to leave the gearstick and stuff as is, and fit a BE3 pedal and cable.

[welshpug 1,657]

 

that crimped wire is where the low speed resistor should be I would imagine, the BE1 quadrant arm can be straightened, probably needs a bit of weld to strengthen it.

 

did you ever fit a new cable to it?

 

and whilst you have the interior out, you might as well lift the carper and check that the rear inner seat mountings aren't cracked, a large repair washer would do the trick to remove those plastic spacers

 

give me a shout if you want a hand, I need to come down to Porthcawl as I left my camera behind at Dan's, DOH!

[hexhamstu 9]

 

that crimped wire is where the low speed resistor should be I would imagine, the BE1 quadrant arm can be straightened, probably needs a bit of weld to strengthen it.

 

did you ever fit a new cable to it?

 

and whilst you have the interior out, you might as well lift the carper and check that the rear inner seat mountings aren't cracked, a large repair washer would do the trick to remove those plastic spacers

 

give me a shout if you want a hand, I need to come down to Porthcawl as I left my camera behind at Dan's, DOH!

 

I'm fine taking stuff out tbh, its when it goes back in that I could use a hand! But the manifold is off being re-angled and I still need a set of coolant/oil hoses idealy but they cost £££££££££

 

P.s what is the low speed resistor? Whats it look like and whats it do? You mean for the fan?

[hexhamstu 9]

P.s the new clutch cable is still in its packet.

[welshpug 1,657]

 

low speed resistor for the fan yes, looks like the dim dip one but has a plug directly on it instead of a fly-lead.

 

can bring flaring kit if you get hold of brake line (or I can get some for you)

[hexhamstu 9]

Can you get some easily? Where is cheap to get it? If you don't mind getting it, that would be fanbleedingtastic.

 

I'll not worry about that bridged connection then, I've no need for a low speed fan.

[happygoron 2]

I'm just going to leave the gearstick and stuff as is, and fit a BE3 pedal and cable.

 

You'll have to change the gearknob, you'll never know where reverse is if you don't!

[hexhamstu 9]

You'll have to change the gearknob, you'll never know where reverse is if you don't!

It'll confuse thieves!

[welshpug 1,657]

 

aye I can get a roll at a decent price, can re-use the ends usually, or do you want new ones?

[hexhamstu 9]

May aswell do new ones? How much are new ends?

[welshpug 1,657]

not much

[hexhamstu 9]

happy days!

[hexhamstu 9]

Planning on giving the rear beam a lick of hammerite shall I strip it and paint or just paint it built? I'm swaying towards just painting it as is. (It's already been rebuilt and re-assembled and done a couple of thousand miles)