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craigmi16

Main Shells Mi16

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craigmi16

hi all needing some advice for my oil pressure and i know it has been covered so many times i no i have read most of the threads but i am still puzzled with this one

 

 

 

1.9 mi16 had rebuild <12k

 

the oil i have in is 10w40 fully synthetic mobile one that has been the best for me for the least mayo

 

the wiring for the oil pressure sender etc is all perfect and i am confidant that i am getting an accurate reading

on cold start up the pressure will be about 3/4 the way up the 205 guage just over the second last bar (sorry i dont know what each bar represents in psi) would be handy to know tho? driving from cold i dont rev it hard till its warmed up but it would rise up to near the maximum on the guage but once fully warmed up the pressure is right down at the red near enough on it if i rev it when hot it will only rise to the second bar at 4k and stop there dont want to rev it any more.

 

i read on the fourm some where a thread from a while back that sayd some one was lossing pressure after a rebuild from having the crank re ground and putting standard shells back in when oversized one should have been used?

 

i have checked the crank pully and it is on tightly

 

p.s the car is also fitted with a mocal 13 row oil cooler in good ventilated spot with plenty of room for air to pass through

 

 

 

is there any logic in this?

 

also what psi does each bar roughly represent on the gti guage

 

am i right in saying that you can take the big end shells out and check them for where etc withought taking engine out fairly easly?

 

all help is appriciated because i no a ok bit about engines but i am no machanic and this is puzzling me good oil pressure when cold and none when hot

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wracing

Does the red stop light come on??

 

205 gauges are rubbish!! If your suspect about oil pressure fit a proper capillary gauge, as this will read the actual oil pressure, rather than a total guess the standard guage does! :)

 

Any signs of low oil pressure, like tapping or knocking at low rpms??

 

Thanks

 

James

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richsmells

If the crank was reground, whoever built the engine should have fitted oversize bearings.

 

Without coming across condecending, the pressure guage (guess-o-meter) will drop quite a bit as the oil heats up and viscocity decreases. Does the stop light come on at all? 3/4 at start up, dropping to 1/4 or less at hot idle sounds fairly normal.

 

If you're really worried fit a mechanical guage to work out what's really going on. :)

 

panela1.jpg

 

 

Edit ^ beaten to it!

Edited by richsmells

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craigmi16

on hot idle it sounds fine it is fairly smooth for a mi no rattles or chapping at all red lights have never came on but ive noticed just recently on start up the stop light will stay on for a split second longer than it us to i forgot to mention it has a new genuine peugeot oil pump with 6 bar spring

 

i have a good electrical guage not machanical that i have not got fitted ill have a look at getting a machanical one this weekend

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wracing

get it fitted :)

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craigmi16

like the pic that is the position the needle sits at when on hot idle but i just read somewhere that the stop light comes on at about 12 psi or so and no stop light when its that low, there for the poor guages are giving out wrong readings and this is the reason i am getting a propor guage for it

 

any good ones to look for makes models etc

 

and in the pic on the oil pressure guage thos numbers they are in psi ? just i dont have thos numbers

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Alan_M
like the pic that is the position the needle sits at when on hot idle but i just read somewhere that the stop light comes on at about 12 psi or so and no stop light when its that low, there for the poor guages are giving out wrong readings and this is the reason i am getting a propor guage for it

 

any good ones to look for makes models etc

 

and in the pic on the oil pressure guage thos numbers they are in psi ? just i dont have thos numbers

 

I thought the stop light came on at 0.5bar......by that time your engine will be dead anyway.

 

I've got a SPA mechanical oil pressure gauge on mine, coupled to an adjustable stop light with big, red beacon. Not too expensive, but you do need to buy adaptors and a T piece to fit all. You'd be surprised how innaccurate and slow the standard oil pressure gauge is!

 

The standard gauge reads in bar by the way, says on the photo :)

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wracing

I'm moving over to smiths gauges after using them in the past, as I have just been let down by electronic gauges!

 

James

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welshpug

14 psi = half a bar, figures above on Euro spec dash is BAR :)

 

I found running a good 15-40 semi synth with a heat exchanger on a 1.9 8 valver gave good pressure, top of the gauge when hot or cold above 3k rpm, only dipping to half way when hot.

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Alan_M
14 psi = half a bar, figures above on Euro spec dash is BAR :)

 

I found running a good 15-40 semi synth with a heat exchanger on a 1.9 8 valver gave good pressure, top of the gauge when hot or cold above 3k rpm, only dipping to half way when hot.

 

1 bar = 14.5psi......Or am I missing something?

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craigmi16

looking on ebay for machanical guages can find any spa ones there is other cheep ones that cost only £30-35 id imagine a good one would be more expensive what sort of price range would i be looking at for a good spa guage kit

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welshpug

DOH, you are right indeed, god knows why I thought it was half when I typed that.

 

i just had a look on servicebox and there is no specified pressure, but it is a common switch to XU and XUD engines.

 

 

 

I would try somewhere like Think automotive as they know what they're doing, and have stuff on the shelf, give them a call, the thread is a standard M16x1.50 if you use the hole for the switch, or M10x1.0 if yo go where the gauge sender goes, so you will need an adapter to BSP IIRC, but they'll know exactly what you need

Edited by welshpug

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craigmi16

thanx for that if im right i think im gona fit it on the front of the block where the pressure sender fits into looking at it its the one on the right the larger one.

 

if i get the kit with the right fittings is it just a case of fitting it to the block fitting the guage to cockpit somewhere making the length on the copper pipe and belling one end to fit the fitting for the guage i have never fitted a machanical guage before so any tips welcome

 

ps i have a brake pipe flaring tool kit and am pritty good with it so no problems there

 

any one got a rough price for a guage?

 

gona order one tomrrow

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Alan_M

My SPA gauge came with all the fittings. Uses a plastic tube designed for high pressures.

 

I'm sure the SPA gauge tube adaptor will go straight onto the block where the standard sender goes, same thread.

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powermandan

I have been recenltly chasing a fault with the wiring on my 1.6gti, anyway i cut the brown multiplug out and soldered it all back in, one of the side effects of this mod was that my oil pressure gauge (which was worryingly low) was now reading substantially more. If you still have that plug or similar in your car, it may be worth renewing the connections

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Alan_M
I have been recenltly chasing a fault with the wiring on my 1.6gti, anyway i cut the brown multiplug out and soldered it all back in, one of the side effects of this mod was that my oil pressure gauge (which was worryingly low) was now reading substantially more. If you still have that plug or similar in your car, it may be worth renewing the connections

 

Whilst the multiplug is a common fault for this (and starter motor etc), you'd be surprised how lazy the standard guage is compared to an aftermarket one.

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