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GLPoomobile

Removing Bottom Starter Motor Bolt

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GLPoomobile

I'm so ashamed that I'm even posting this :lol:

 

Thought that the job would be relatively straight forward, with only seized bolts being the likely issue. Got the inlet manifold off (I'm quite happy to do it this was as I've had it off so many times it only takes half an hour, and preferable to sliding about on the ground with little access). Got the top 2 bolts loosened. But can't get at the bottom bolt as the clutch arm is right next to it so can't get the allen key in :(

 

I'm guessing this problem must have been encountered by hundreds of members to date, so someone can hopefully give me a point in the right direction. Surely you don't have to remove the clutch arm (crazy notion!)?

 

Read through a fair whack of old posts from various different seach criteria, and came up with nothing! :ph34r:

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EdCherry

Shouldn't be an allen head as standard I normally either just use an extension on the socket which means I clear the arm or use a spanner.

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hcmini1989
Shouldn't be an allen head as standard I normally either just use an extension on the socket which means I clear the arm or use a spanner.

Or cut an old allen key down .Is it a be3 box as mine had allen bolts in it but never had this problem

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gixxerash
I'm so ashamed that I'm even posting this :lol:

 

Thought that the job would be relatively straight forward, with only seized bolts being the likely issue. Got the inlet manifold off (I'm quite happy to do it this was as I've had it off so many times it only takes half an hour, and preferable to sliding about on the ground with little access). Got the top 2 bolts loosened. But can't get at the bottom bolt as the clutch arm is right next to it so can't get the allen key in :(

 

I'm guessing this problem must have been encountered by hundreds of members to date, so someone can hopefully give me a point in the right direction. Surely you don't have to remove the clutch arm (crazy notion!)?

 

Read through a fair whack of old posts from various different seach criteria, and came up with nothing! :ph34r:

 

 

mine are allen key bolt's to. just an idea if you got someone to put there foot on the clutch pedal.

Edited by gixxerash

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GLPoomobile

It's a 1.9 Mi with 1.6 BE1 box. All 3 are allen head bolts. Might have to replace them with normal bolts when this is sorted.

 

Cutting down an allen key might work. Any other ideas?

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All Praise The GTI

i find when they have allen keys its a much easier job... aslong as you have some good thin head allen key 3/8 sockets :lol:

as said get someone to depress clutch or lever arm out way makes it easier :ph34r:

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Baz

Be3? I never usually have an issue, hex-head=spanner, socket head/capscrew = Allen bits with an assortment of adapters/drivers, nicely one set i have has 10mm hex-fitting adapters so you can use a ratchet spanner on them where space is tight.

 

Be1 you pretty much have to remove the clutch arm, pretty simple though!

 

 

Hang on a minute, you removed the inlet manifold...? :ph34r:

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gixxerash
It's a 1.9 Mi with 1.6 BE1 box. All 3 are allen head bolts. Might have to replace them with normal bolts when this is sorted.

 

Cutting down an allen key might work. Any other ideas?

 

could you squeeze one of those allen key's that attach to a socket wrench. Or like you say cutting down the allen key with a pair of mole grips onto it.

Edited by gixxerash

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Baz
It's a 1.9 Mi with 1.6 BE1 box. All 3 are allen head bolts. Might have to replace them with normal bolts when this is sorted.

 

Ahh yes, just pop the clutch arm off, it's really easy, 21mm bolt iirc, just don't lose the little dowel!

 

While you're there you can replace the top-hat bushes on the arm too. :ph34r:

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EdCherry
It's a 1.9 Mi with 1.6 BE1 box. All 3 are allen head bolts. Might have to replace them with normal bolts when this is sorted.

 

Cutting down an allen key might work. Any other ideas?

 

Hope you've got 4 bolts gbox to engine! Only ever had the cap head bolt on the rear bottom most which goes from engine side to gbox.

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Baz
Hope you've got 4 bolts gbox to engine! Only ever had the cap head bolt on the rear bottom most which goes from engine side to gbox.

 

In my experience the starter ones are commonly Cap heads, who knows what they were standard though!

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EdCherry

Oops im being an idiot ignore everything I've said haha

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GLPoomobile

I'm not sure what gearbox it is, and I feel lame for admitting that :ph34r: It's an 89 (F plate) 1.6, so should be BE1 shouldn't it? And it has lift reverse, but I've got a fuzzy memory about having to use lift reverse on an Mi conversion anyway.

 

So if it's a BE1, does that mean I definately have to remove the clutch arm? Because if I'm resigned to the fact, it'll save time cutting down an allen key and faffing about.

 

If I have to remove the clutch arm, is there anything I need to be wary of (notice the correct use of the word 'wary'. Take heed you 'weary' users!)? I read some posts and saw mention of a pin that needs to be knocked out, but not very specific info.

Edited by GLPoomobile

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Baz

Yep, lift up reverse is BE1. :ph34r:

 

Removing the clutch arm really is simple, back off the clutch cable and release it, releasing the dowel (put it somewhere safe!), undo the 21mm bolt, and off it pops, then clear to get to the starter bolt.

 

Either that or by all means cut down a hex key etc, personal preference and probably equal faffing either way dependant on how practised you are either with the clutch arm, or a vice and a hacksaw, and them being handy!

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Baz
If I have to remove the clutch arm, is there anything I need to be wary of (notice the correct use of the word 'wary'. Take heed you 'weary' users!)? I read some posts and saw mention of a pin that needs to be knocked out, but not very specific info.

 

On a Be3 clutch arm there's a roll-pin that holds it on, you don't need to worry with a Be1 though. :ph34r:

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EdCherry

Maybe we should call the clutch arm the bit that goes into the box, and the bit you need to undo the quadrant, like the gear selection quadrant on the subframe.

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Baz
Maybe we should call the clutch arm the bit that goes into the box, and the bit you need to undo the quadrant, like the gear selection quadrant on the subframe.

 

Probably as they're essentially very similar, but i was trying to keep it uncomplicated! :ph34r:

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BusEngineer

I had a similar problem with mine, all the bolts were allen key heads and i couldnt see a way to get past the quadrant

 

I was also on my own all weekend and desperately wanted to get the new starter on, so . . .

 

I used mole grips on the head of the bolt, got them on really, really tight and cracked it off just being careful not to smash them straight through the radiator! :)

 

It came out the rest of the way with finger pressure

 

Not the best way of doing it and id boll*ck the aprentices at work for doing it, but when needs must! :)

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Eunosfield

I managed to finally remove my starter today, I took the rad off to do it (as I wanted to give the whole system a good flush anyway).

I didn't have much trouble getting the starter loose as someone had kindly only bolted it in with 2 bolts and not bothered to replace the difficult one near the clutch arm!

The guy who used to own it would never in a million years have done any DIY so I can only assume the pros even have trouble/can't be bothered with the little bugger!

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GLPoomobile

I got the starter off by removing the clutch arm (sorry, quadrant :P ). It was as simple as Baz said, just undo the single bolt that holds it in, then move it aside.

 

FYI, pushing the clutch pedal in doesn't work (I jammed the pedal down using my breaker bar wedged against the seat lever. Which is what I also do to test the brake lights pre-MOT :) ). The starter bolt sits right next to where the quadrant hinges on it's bolt, which is why pushing the pedal down doesn't work, as the actual obstruction doesn't move anywhere.

 

Anyway, it's done now, and it was utterly simple and nothing to worry about, so I hope that is some encouragement to anyone else who may be in this situation.

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