Rust Removal.

[SurGie 54]

Hello all,

 

I recently bought some Built Hamper deox C rust remover and thought id try it on my recently purchased ZX arms that i got from Anthony.

 

Here are the before and after pictures, and as you can see they are transformed thanks to deox C .

 

 

 

 

This was after a quick brush down then used a grinder with the brush attachment.

 

 

These are now curing in very warm water for 2-days with a quick brushing on each day to help agitate the rust.

 

 

The next picture shows the final result ready to be painted, i'l probably use that POR15 stuff, i just need to find out if i'l need primer with it.

 

 

They look almost new now and i will be using that stuff in future for the larger items.

 

(ps, these photos are thumb-nail pictures which this forum prefers, i re sized them down to 250 BTW.)

 

[pugman211 0]

very nice work!! How much was the stuff, and would submersing them in water not affect the bearings???

[SurGie 54]

Thanks, i'l be renewing the bearings any way.

 

It cost £15 from Built Hamper, i'd usually use vinegar on smaller items and thought these need the good stuff. I did have to wire brush a few areas after the soaking.

 

Cheers.

[Nickmatthewsrallying 0]

Good value and brings the parts up really good.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

How did you keep the water warm?

 

Also I might be being a bit slow here but what stage did you use the rust remover?

Edited May 23, 2010 by Daviewonder

[SurGie 54]

I didn't keep the water warm i just used very warm water before dunking them in to help speed up the process. It does say if you keep the water warm you will get much faster results, say 24 hours or so.

 

I put them in after i wire bushed them and dissolved some in there before hand. I then sprinkled some over the top to get in those difficult corners.

 

Cheers.

[Anthony 1,002]

Damn they came up well!

 

How did the wheel bearings take to being soaked for 2 days?

[davey sprocket 14]

As I was going to be ordering some this week anyway, I thought I might help anyone tring to find Built Hamper.... they're called Bilt Hamber and can be found here

 

[SurGie 54]

Damn they came up well!

 

How did the wheel bearings take to being soaked for 2 days?

They sure did, it surprised me a little because they were proper rusted over. On some very little surface areas the proper ground in rust would not file away at all.

 

Well iv not removed them just yet and only one was leaking water out when they were drying. That is the one that has slight rubbing on the inside

when i turn it round but only in one area of the circle. Il send pictures of the shafts and bearing when iv got them off this week sometime, il then post pictures of them painted.

 

 

As I was going to be ordering some this week anyway, I thought I might help anyone trying to find Built Hamper.... they're called Bilt Hamber and can be found here

 

 

Thanks for that, it was a typo due to the U being right next to the I, the other one was a spelling mistake .

 

Cheers .

[CosKev 16]

They look well sorted

 

Be interesting to see how long it keeps the rust away

 

Had mine shot blasted,then powder coated last year,used the car all over winter and the rusts coming back through

 

Bit surprised,as beam tube is still totally rust free,and torsion bars/other stuff done at same time

 

Does anyone know if its due to them being cast???????

[SurGie 54]

That's why im using a few coats of POR15 paint just to be sure they wont rust as quick. I sprayed it over with WD40 as a water disperser for now so they wont rust over being sat in the Garage before i get round to painting them. Iv just ordered some POR 15 now as it happens.

[Rippthrough 98]

I like Bilt Hamber's own EtchWeld for priming 'em tbh.

Hydrate 80 is quite nice to, leaves a thick, soft film almost like powdercoat.

[CosKev 16]

That's why im using a few coats of POR15 paint just to be sure they wont rust as quick. I sprayed it over with WD40 as a water disperser for now so they wont rust over being sat in the Garage before i get round to painting them. Iv just ordered some POR 15 now as it happens.

 

Spoke to the bloke at local platers today,and he reckons shot blasting is not the best way to clean up cast

 

He said acid dip sweats the metal,and with cast being porous it gets the rust out of the pores

 

So yours could be rust free for a while

[SurGie 54]

Here's hoping .

 

I have put two coats of rust treatment in the corner areas where they were bad, just to be sure. I have taken the bearings off tonight and the arms look as clean as when i took those pictures. The bearing are fine except for the grease which is in a bad state.

[Rippthrough 98]

If you spray on a filler/primer after the etch then it helps fill the bottom of the pores in a little and stops rust developing from hydroxide's forming in the pores.

Edited May 26, 2010 by Rippthrough

[SurGie 54]

Nice one Rippthrough il be getting some etch weld primer from bilt Hamber soon.

 

The primer type im using on these will be the same as il use on the 309 beam, but ill be sanding the light rust back.

 

Is that filling primer like two pack stuff, what is it called ?

 

Cheers.

[Joe-Tait 0]

Nice finish i need to get a bottle of this stuff asap

[SurGie 54]

Thanks.

 

Here are the bearings after two days in the anti rust formula >

 

 

Can anyone suggest to me an easy way to remove the rest of the bearings with out damaging the shaft. Also is the rusty disk at the very far back part of the bearings as one of them is seized and the other one moves round ?

 

 

Cheers.

Edited May 28, 2010 by SurGie

[dch1950 37 1 Cars]

I didn't keep the water warm i just used very warm water before dunking them in to help speed up the process. It does say if you keep the water warm you will get much faster results, say 24 hours or so.

 

I put them in after i wire bushed them and dissolved some in there before hand. I then sprinkled some over the top to get in those difficult corners.

 

Cheers.

Hi,

I wonder if those little mains heaters used for brewing tea in a cup are still around, that would do the trick nicely.

They were like a little immersion heater.

regards

Dave

[welshpug 1,655]

those would be the inner bearing races and their dust seals Surgie, there is a spacer behind these also that you retain and fit new bearings.

 

you can sometimes use a puller on the race, I usually just use a cold chisel, in worst cases you'll need to grind through the race taking care to stop before you mark the stub axle, and a few whacks with a cold chisel will split the race and off it will slide.

[SurGie 54]

Great thanks welshpug, il give that try .

 

Just a thought but would it be ok to use some heat to expand the bearing as they are really stuck on ?

 

Cheers.

[swordfish210 20]

Great thanks welshpug, il give that try .

 

Just a thought but would it be ok to use some heat to expand the bearing as they are really stuck on ?

 

Cheers.

 

You'll need a hell of a lot of heat to get that to expand. I allways use a grinder but as WP says, you'll need to be quite surgical with it.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

What make rear bearings are you using Surgie? what price were they?

[SurGie 54]

You'll need a hell of a lot of heat to get that to expand. I always use a grinder but as WP says, you'll need to be quite surgical with it.

 

Surgical is no problem for the SurGie

 

Daviewonder,

 

I am/was planning on getting a set from GSF, will GSF have good enough ones to use or is it better going to the Pug dealers for a good set ?

 

Cheers.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Daviewonder,

 

I am/was planning on getting a set from GSF, will GSF have good enough ones to use or is it better going to the Pug dealers for a good set ?

 

Cheers.

 

I dunno, I need a new one and I was just wondering what people went for as their quite expensive Afaik