Non-starter: Single Spark

[Guest BMS Engineering]

Hi, got a bit of a problem with my non-starting phase 1 205 1.6 im building for the 205 challange..

 

Theres no sign of life, just a single spark at the first cranking revolution. The fuel rail is pressurized.

 

I've replaced the coil, distributor, plugs and swapped the ignition module (with a used one that was working before).

 

Can anybody help?

 

Thanks

Chris

[P_Monty 2]

Have you measured the resistances of the coil (its in the HBOL) - are you getting 12V where you'd expect it (on LT side of coil etc).

[kyepan 291]

try another ecu.. someone else had this with an MI-16 and it was the ecu ..

[giveitsomebar 0]

also at the rear of the block there is a blue plug there its a cold start but this will more than likely be the problem

best of luck

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

I would also check that there is a supply to the coil and that it remains there whilst cranking.

[Anthony 1,003]

Check/replace the timing signal cable that comes out of the dizzy, and clean up the contacts on the 3-pin plug that this connects to. If there is a problem with this, the ignition amp won't see a timing signal and thus won't spark.

 

A big clue if this is wrong is that you'll not have any fuel being injected (although fuel pump will run whilst cranking) and the rev counter won't flutter when cranking.

 

The ignition system on a Jetronic 8v is very simple - providing that you've wired it up properly and the small number of components are good, you only really need a 12v supply, a decent earth, and a timing signal off the dizzy to get it to spark. +12v and earth are easy to check for (both should be present on the ignition amp plug, and 12v is also to the positive side of the coil), which just leaves the timing signal.

 

try another ecu.. someone else had this with an MI-16 and it was the ecu ..

also at the rear of the block there is a blue plug there its a cold start but this will more than likely be the problem

Given that this is a Jetronic car that we're talking about which has a clockwork dizzy and seperate fuel injection, it's not going to be the ECU or the ECU temp sensor - you can remove the fuel injection side of things and the ignition will still work fine - this is how most people run carbs for example.