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flyfisher

1905 Mi16 Short Inlet Manifold Ok Or Not

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flyfisher

hi just converting to 16v power 1905 alloy block as i will be running mi16 loom and standard motoronic injection i would welcome opinions as to inlet manifold lenghts. by shortening manifold will this affect profromance or should i stick with stanaRD LENGHT i dont like idear of chopping fan shrould and tilting rad your comments please

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B1ack_Mi16
hi just converting to 16v power 1905 alloy block as i will be running mi16 loom and standard motoronic injection i would welcome opinions as to inlet manifold lenghts. by shortening manifold will this affect profromance or should i stick with stanaRD LENGHT i dont like idear of chopping fan shrould and tilting rad your comments please

 

I used a shortened one on a 205 Mi16 I owned quite a few years ago.

 

Might have lost a little bottom grunt but slightly more eager in the mid and top range.

 

It's not that much you are shortening it and it makes it a neater install anyway...

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JRL

I also use the shortened inlet manifold but did not notice any change in performance. But definately dont use a re-angled exhaust manifold they all seem to be weakend after welding and just kept blowing. Q-E-P do a re angled manifold plate and it sorted it. good luck with your conversion.

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flyfisher
I also use the shortened inlet manifold but did not notice any change in performance. But definately dont use a re-angled exhaust manifold they all seem to be weakend after welding and just kept blowing. Q-E-P do a re angled manifold plate and it sorted it. good luck with your conversion.

many thanks peter

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Miles

Better off chopping the Rad Cowling, it costs nothing unlike the manifold and unless you port it after welding it might restrict the flow slightly

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bazil_205gti

I used a shortened one on mine worth doing as saves alot of hassel with the rad and clearance, didnt really notice much of a difference on mine to be honest

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Simes

Cut the rad cowling on mine, far simpler, cheaper and neater.

Edited by Simes

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petert

It all depends on your skill set. I'm confident with the TIG and shaping aluminium, so shortening is my preferred method. It also gives me the opportunity to add and subtract other bushes/mounting points. And when you have an air conditioned car it's the only option. It's even impossible to tell the difference in performance on a 405 with a short manifold, let alone a lighter 205.

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Vili

Does anyone have a rr-graphs from the same engine with shortened manifold and with standard manifold? I'd like to see how shortening the inlet really affects the torque curve. And of-course it would be useful to know how much was taken of.

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Baz

Would be interesting, i've never seen such a comparison!

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S@m

I'll be going the gti6 inlet on mine, that should fit!

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Vili

Actually fitment isn't an issue for me since I'm already running std length mi16 inlet. Just that I've started doing modified inlet and would like to see what effect on the torque curve the shorter length has.

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Simes

Maxi might have an rr graph as he used to run this inlet a few years back.....and find a noticeable difference with torque

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maxi

I will try and dig out a graph for one of my old setups. I always use to swear that a shortened inlet, bosal exhaust with no divider and a 3 row ECU would almost definitely produce between 170 and 175BHP on a healthy engine, running optimax/Vpower. The shortened inlet would make it noticeably lethargic below 3000RPM but the rush and urge to the limiter would make it all worthwhile. With correctly set cam timing the engine power would still be climbing at the rev limiter. Mine would happily pull the limiter in 6th on a gti6 box, 5th in an mi box and would make mincemeat of a 1600 box.

 

My recommendation is always go shortened inlet, these engines love to rev and were designed to be like that. If you want something low revving and torquey go 8v or gti6, if you want magic, Mi16 1905cc D6c.

 

Maxi

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