Wishbones

[wracing 19]

Guys im getting rather fed up of the fact that the only replacement wishbones available to us are either unsafe, due to incorrect rodend loading or pattern part copy rubbish!

 

Im thinking that the only solution may be to make an non-adjustable wishbone that will take nylon bushes on the inboard and the 306 lower ball joint, allowing replacement of all bushings and bearings.

 

 

Very simple direct replacement maybe available in 205 std and 309 std and alittle bit more sizes!!

 

I forgot to add, TIG welded tubular CDS.

 

At around 80 pounds a pair

 

Tell me what you think!!

 

Thanks

 

James

Edited May 4, 2010 by wracing

[welshpug 1,655]

sounds VERY cheap, Phillip (rippthrough) has done a set using that outer joint to work on the 306's with rose jointed inners, as far as I know all he needs for a 205 setup is his workshop to be back up and running and a 205 subframe and ARB to make a jig from.

 

price was about £500 odd.

 

I'd be more interested in wishbones capable of using the original bushes, given their longevity and low cost.

[All Praise The GTI 3]

id definately buy a set at that price mate

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

i would deffo be interested in a set of these mate, after changing both my balljonts on my vts i wondered how difficult it would be to fab something up for the 205?

 

as long as they could take either poly or std bushes that is.

 

 

Pete

[wracing 19]

Having just looked at a 205 wishbone i think you have a very good point, using the standard inners would work well, allowing both standard and after market parts to be used!

 

Bloody hell 500 pounds!

 

Obviously the manufacture of the jig is the expensive part, i've been chatting to a friend, a three tube design similar to what you would find on a Westfield but with a tube between inboard mounts and a dog leg in one of the tubes to avoid the arb.

 

Ive been also thinking of a laser cut steel design similar to....

 

 

but with std inners and 306 outer.

 

Thanks

 

James

[BusEngineer 7]

Id be interested at this price fella, in 309 width though

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

can the std wishbone not be modded to accept the 306 balljoint? can a std wishbone be welded good enough?

[alphacharlie 0]

Defo interested as "bones and shafts" are on list for replacement this summer

Cheers

AC

[whizzer71 0]

Ill be up for that that due to get through two sets in two years that "representation" looks awesome !

 

[welshpug 1,655]

you obviously dont value your time and skills particularly highly if you think £80 is a fair price James!

 

£500 is about 30-35% of the price I have seen from some french rally part suppliers/manufacturers....

[All Praise The GTI 3]

maybe james is just very kind and loves us fellow 205 drivers so he wants to help us out by sharing his impressive skills and knowledge

 

do i get a further discount now?

 

[wracing 19]

I always work on, 40 hour would do me

 

I really hate and is the reason why I try and make everything, that you put the word motorsport anywhere and that instantly means 10000% profit margins

 

I'm having a little dabble on Solidworks it looks like the laser cut will be the cheapest to manufacture with a single bend on a brake press. We used to work to .1mm so I will have to read up on acceptable manufacturing tolerances on automotive parts. Then 4 welds.

 

Very quick and labour free as most of the process can be automated (laser cutting). Jigging would be a simple bolt through affair.

 

Pete Im not sure what they are made of but its doesn't look to weldable....

 

haha rubbish

Edited May 4, 2010 by wracing

[Peetypug 5]

i'd be very interested in a pair as well!

does it get cheaper the more people that want them?

if so i will wait till there are 100 people and we can have them for £2.50 per set

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Liquid_106 97 1 Cars]

Preemptive

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[wracing 19]

haha, no chance there isn't really much to get cheaper, apart from laser cutting by a few pounds, fabrication stays the same unfortunately!!

 

If I can make this work it would be nice if I could find someone who competes or constantly drive like they stole it (over curbs through trees and at police cars....) to test them again before they get released to the general population.

 

Thanks

 

James

[Peetypug 5]

99-

100- sorrentopete, 205 wbones

 

 

 

 

 

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Pete Im not sure what they are made of but its doesn't look to weldable....

 

ok dude, its only i have seen these types before and they look std and welded?

 

[Peetypug 5]

i can test them for you will be using the pug for my main motor for at least 6 months

Edited May 4, 2010 by sorrentopete

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

haha, no chance there isn't really much to get cheaper, apart from laser cutting by a few pounds, fabrication stays the same unfortunately!!

 

If I can make this work it would be nice if I could find someone who competes or constantly drive like they stole it (over curbs through trees and at police cars....) to test them again before they get released to the general population.

 

Thanks

 

James

 

i am that person i dont compete but the roads round my way are sh*te and if i let the wife drive it. well that would be a good test

[wracing 19]

I stand corrected, I know people run that design with no issues, but the design is all wrong, I wouldn't be happy running them especially with such a small rod end.

 

It probably works well, but not a high enough safety factor for my liking

 

James

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

I stand corrected, I know people run that design with no issues, but the design is all wrong, I wouldn't be happy running them especially with such a small rod end.

 

It probably works well, but not a high enough safety factor for my liking

 

James

 

cool cool they do look a bit wussy.plus you know much more about this sort of thing than me.

 

still if you can make the ones like you have pictured for that price i'm sure you will make a killing also the std 306 joints are real cheap to replace as are the bushes.

 

they will last the life of the car too, apart from accident damage of course.

 

pete

[All Praise The GTI 3]

im local so you could do regular saftey checks

and im sure you saw how bad my local roads are

and will be planning on using the 205 over the summer and it will be driven hard

Edited May 4, 2010 by All Praise The GTI

[wracing 19]

Hand well and truly bitten off!!

 

Im thinking (i have yet to run any fea) around 15mm mild steel with the necessary weight reductions, the reason I like the look of a mild steel rather than a stronger alloy, is that they will bend and bend and bend, rather then bend then bang, it extreme circumstances like British roads!! I have yet to run the math so I may be talking out of my arse!!

 

Rippthrough if you read have you got any advice, you seem to be a wealth of knowledge when in comes to suspension??

 

thanks

 

James

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Deffinately interested!

 

My 309 bones are fudged

[Rippthrough 98]

Hand well and truly bitten off!!

 

Im thinking (i have yet to run any fea) around 15mm mild steel with the necessary weight reductions, the reason I like the look of a mild steel rather than a stronger alloy, is that they will bend and bend and bend, rather then bend then bang, it extreme circumstances like British roads!! I have yet to run the math so I may be talking out of my arse!!

 

Rippthrough if you read have you got any advice, you seem to be a wealth of knowledge when in comes to suspension??

 

thanks

 

James

 

 

You'll find most of the stronger chro-moly/maganese alloys won't even have started bending by the time the mild steel has bust, but mild steel will suffice if there's enough of it.

 

Mine are all certified T45 tube with proper pressed ends to accept the balljoint, similar to a normal 306 wishbone, full 3-link design and rose jointed with seals, hence the price, certainly couldn't make them as cheap as you, it costs me that for the tube

But then, I designed mine to cope with rallying or whacking a banking side on - they've got a shear pin that'll bend/break before the tube or subframe buckles to take the energy out.

 

More than happy to help though if you post ideas up.

Edited May 4, 2010 by Rippthrough