Mi16 4 Branch

[matthewm 1]

Just finished my MI16 conversion, untilted (on the standard mounts). Has a conversion 4 branch, and when I got underneath to bolt the exaust on found the end of the 4 branch pressed up against the exaust tunnel. Is this a common problem with them?

Thanks

[welshpug 1,662]

very common, is it alloy or iron block?

[Baz 421]

You'll need to extend the lower fork mount a little. Not a lot, but a little.

 

Kind of defeats the object of having an Mi16 specific conversion manifold etc i know.

[large 33]

Its an alloy block.

[Baz 421]

Doesn't really make a difference tbh, they commonly don't fit either.

[matthewm 1]

Cheers chaps - good to know I'm not alone in my opinion of 'what the f**cks the point of having this big money manifold if the f**king thing still dont fit'

Best extend that bottom mount a smidge then.

[DjB 0]

Have a look here.

 

http://www.taylor-eng.com/conversion/conversion_parts.htm

 

This might solve the problem.

 

 

 

Chriis

[SurGie 54]

It will be best to fit the Gp N engine mounts from BBM mounts. They will help stop it hitting the bulkhead also.

 

For other members with the 2.0 litre MI16, its best to fit and wedge some little alloy plates behind the buffers as well, it stopped my old one hitting the bulkhead.

Edited May 1, 2010 by SurGie

[DjB 0]

its best to fit and wedge some little alloy plates behind the buffers as well, it stopped my old one hitting the bulkhead.

 

You can find one of these at the link I posted.

 

 

Chris

[Guest dirkdiggler]

Just finished my MI16 conversion, untilted (on the standard mounts). Has a conversion 4 branch, and when I got underneath to bolt the exaust on found the end of the 4 branch pressed up against the exaust tunnel. Is this a common problem with them?

Thanks

 

 

out of curiosity which loom did you use?im sending my 205 one and mi16 one off next week and for £130 theres a company that will send you a plug and play one...will lert you knowhow i get on if your not sorted

[Baz 421]

It will be best to fit the Gp N engine mounts from BBM mounts. They will help stop it hitting the bulkhead also.

 

For other members with the 2.0 litre MI16, its best to fit and wedge some little alloy plates behind the buffers as well, it stopped my old one hitting the bulkhead.

 

No it won't, doesn't change the angle of the manifold/engine!

 

You can find one of these at the link I posted.

 

 

Chris

 

No you can't, Peter does a wedge plate to go between the exhaust manifold and head, not engine mount buffers afaia.

[matthewm 1]

Thanks guys, although problem is its touching the underside of the car though, not the bulkhead, a very small amount of movement on the bottom mount as Baz mentioned will cure the problem I have.

 

As per loom I made a new one and routed it all together and through a gromit on the left of the servo, re-routed the cabling on the car side of the brown plugs and replaced the plugs with a 6 way plug which is now with the fuel injection and pump relays next to the ECU.

[DjB 0]

No you can't, Peter does a wedge plate to go between the exhaust manifold and head, not engine mount buffers afaia.

 

I stand corrected... But the exhaust manifold wedge would still solve the exhaust fouling wouldn't it? I thought that this would have been the prefered method instead of tilting the motor. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

 

Chris

[woodsy 0]

Are some of these manifolds better quality than others as i got one from pugspares many years ago and never had problem with it except to drill out holes for head studs to go through

[SurGie 54]

No it won't, doesn't change the angle of the manifold/engine!

 

No it won't, doesn't change the angle of the manifold/engine!

 

 

 

No you can't, Peter does a wedge plate to go between the exhaust manifold and head, not engine mount buffers afaia.

 

I had the similar manifold and when I put wedges behind the buffers And GpN engine mounts it stopped it hitting the bulkhead when driving without changing the engine angle of which I'm not keen doing that sort of mod tbh, but every car is different. If the engine is in the right angle then it will help. Also it may help someone else in a similar positon. If the manifold is touching the bulkhead then the manifold angle plate would IMO be the better option.

 

No you can't, Peter does a wedge plate to go between the exhaust manifold and head, not engine mount buffers afaia.

[DjB 0]

I need to learn how to read again........

 

 

 

Chris

[Baz 421]

Some manfolds are different yes, or it's a case of different shells/tolerances/lower fork legths, etc etc.

 

Tilting the engine isn't ideal no, but it really shouldn't need a lot. A complete PITA when you've bought an expensive manifold to essentially do things the proper way, without tilting the engine, but unfortunately it seems to be a hit and miss anyway, there is other plus sides to the manifolds though of course!

 

 

I had the similar manifold and when I put wedges behind the buffers And GpN engine mounts it stopped it hitting the bulkhead when driving without changing the engine angle of which I'm not keen doing that sort of mod tbh, but every car is different. If the engine is in the right angle then it will help. Also it may help someone else in a similar positon. If the manifold is touching the bulkhead then the manifold angle plate would IMO be the better option.

 

Wedging the spacers or slightly extended the lower fork, the difference is negligible! You're ultimately doing the same thing, just pivoting at the top or bottom so to speak.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Think yourself lucky, I had to do all of this to physically get the 6 engine to fit in my 205:

 

Extended engine fork

Spaced out pedal box to raise MC away from rocker cover.

Cut lip out from exhaust tunnel

 

And the exhaust flange STILL hit on the tunnel, so the BFH came out to play.

 

The inlet mainfold is about 2-3mm away from the radiator, all depends on tolerances etc. I have plenty of room either side of engine (compared to my mate) and sweet FA room back and front!

[ashwarrior205 0]

Try fitting group n engine mounts at least lower 1. Don't re-angle the engine as will cause oil starving and premature engine failure unless converted it to a dry sump

[Baz 421]

Try fitting group n engine mounts at least lower 1. Don't re-angle the engine as will cause oil starving and premature engine failure unless converted it to a dry sump

 

Group N engine mounts will make a negligible difference if anything, they're no different in design.

 

Wedging the spacers or slightly extended the lower fork, the difference is negligible! You're ultimately doing the same thing, just pivoting at the top or bottom so to speak.

Edited May 7, 2010 by Baz