Just In For Mot

[Obey_R 23]

Hi everyone,

 

This is my first thread here, just thought I would share my intentions and see what everyone thinks.

 

I bought a 1.6GTI with no tax, lapsed MOT and with a bit of rust for £385 recently. Mechanically the car seems great, just needing some cosmetic work and little bits of tinkering, hopefully making a good project until I can afford to insure it, Feb '11.

 

I've just taken it up to my local service station for a last minute MOT to get a comprehensive list of things that need doing, I'm already aware of small things like the passenger's seat not clicking into place etc, but hopefully they're small problems.

 

There are a few things I'm not sure of though, if you could pease assist.

 

Firstly the odometer is stuck on 99,999 and the trip computer won't reset. Is this going to be an easy fix, dash off and give it a turn by hand or something more complex? I've got recent MOT slips and the milage does add up to being there or there abouts, so I'm not to worried about there being another 20,000 on the clock after it got stuck.

 

Another thing is the oil pressure gause doesn't seem to be working, the light comes on with the ignition but the needle doesn't move at all; warm, cold or whilst driving it's at 0. However the light doesn't come on whilst idleing/driving.

 

Any ideas?

 

Many thanks,

OBey_R

[Obey_R 23]

Some photos...

 

 

 

[Rupertfinch 6]

The oil pressure sender is missing from the sump? Or have I been a gimp and that's not even what that thing in the sump is? Actually that might be only a thing that sends oil level info rather than pressure... either way, I don't have one.

[Anthony 1,003]

The oil pressure sender is missing from the sump? Or have I been a gimp and that's not even what that thing in the sump is? Actually that might be only a thing that sends oil level info rather than pressure... either way, I don't have one.

Oil temperature sender is on the sump - oil pressure senders (one for the gauge, one for the light) are on the front of the block to the side of the alternator. If the gauge doesn't work, it's probably more than likely the wiring in that area or brown multiplug that all the sensor wiring runs through.

[Rupertfinch 6]

Even as I typed I knew I was wrong...why did I type in the first place?

[Obey_R 23]

Got it back from the MOT station today but not good news.

 

I knew it would fail, but wanted to get a good list of things that need doing - turns out there's 2 pages of things it failed on...

 

001. Offside rear (panel) Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessivly correded

002. Drivers seat insecure

003. Passengers seat insecure

004. Horn does not function

005. Nearside front position lamps not in good working order (not working)

006. Nearside headlamp insecure

007. Offside headlamp imsecure

008. Offside rear fog lamp not in good working order (not working)

009. Registration plate lamp not working

010. Offside steering rack gaitor insecure

011. Nearside (sill) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessivly corroded

012. Nearside front brake disc excessivly worn

013. Offside front brake disc excessivly worn

014. Nearside rear radius arm has excessive play in a pin/bearing

 

 

Out of all of those, I can only see 3 of those being a problem; 001, 011 and 014. The side light is just a loose connection, drivers and passengers seats are damaged on the frames so either weld it up or replace them. Horn hopefully just a loose wire, the lamps have the fixings broken where they join the indicators so easy fix. Fog lamp has a broken wire. The gaitor should just pop back over and cable tie on and the disks were going to be replaced anyway.

 

Sorry for the long post but if you're reading it all thanks.

 

What does anyone think to the replacing the sills, quater panel and radius arm... are they very difficult jobs?

 

 

Many thanks,

Ross.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Got it back from the MOT station today but not good news.

 

I knew it would fail, but wanted to get a good list of things that need doing - turns out there's 2 pages of things it failed on...

 

001. Offside rear (panel) Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessivly correded

002. Drivers seat insecure

003. Passengers seat insecure

004. Horn does not function

005. Nearside front position lamps not in good working order (not working)

006. Nearside headlamp insecure

007. Offside headlamp imsecure

008. Offside rear fog lamp not in good working order (not working)

009. Registration plate lamp not working

010. Offside steering rack gaitor insecure

011. Nearside (sill) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessivly corroded

012. Nearside front brake disc excessivly worn

013. Offside front brake disc excessivly worn

014. Nearside rear radius arm has excessive play in a pin/bearing

 

 

Out of all of those, I can only see 3 of those being a problem; 001, 011 and 014. The side light is just a loose connection, drivers and passengers seats are damaged on the frames so either weld it up or replace them. Horn hopefully just a loose wire, the lamps have the fixings broken where they join the indicators so easy fix. Fog lamp has a broken wire. The gaitor should just pop back over and cable tie on and the disks were going to be replaced anyway.

 

Sorry for the long post but if you're reading it all thanks.

 

What does anyone think to the replacing the sills, quater panel and radius arm... are they very difficult jobs?

 

 

Many thanks,

Ross.

 

ouch man, i would be worried about number 14 too plus the rust.

 

does sound like he's being a bit picky though on number

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Start reading about beam rebuild. Not hard if you've done them before and have all the kit but can be tricky otherwise.

[Obey_R 23]

I'm not quite sure where he means on number one, the only rust I can see is on the second photo I posted, which is only 6 or so inches from the drivers seatbelt fixing, could it be that?

 

Re: Beam rebuild I've not done them before but have some people who should be able to do it cheaper than normal - because I'm in no rush. However the MOT man said probably easy to replace the rear beam?

Edited April 19, 2010 by Obey_R

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

I'm not quite sure where he means on number one, the only rust I can see is on the second photo I posted, which is only 6 or so inches from the drivers seatbelt fixing, could it be that?

?

 

if there is any rust within 30cm of and suspension/seatbelt points its a fail

 

and the chances of getting a goos second hand beam is nearly none existent unless its beedn rebuilt by someone else but then you pay big dollar for it.

 

if you have the skills rebuild it. its an epic task

Edited April 19, 2010 by pugpete1108

[Obey_R 23]

And if not?

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

And if not?

 

dig deep my friend and buy a rebuilt one. a few people on here do them for £300 or so

[Obey_R 23]

Will have a look around and see what money I can get just the radius arm done for then, is it likely to be cheaper than buying a recon. beam?

[miamichris 9]

Will have a look around and see what money I can get just the radius arm done for then, is it likely to be cheaper than buying a recon. beam?

 

The beam needs rebuilt mate, you can't do half a job with it! The bearings will likely have collapsed, the arm shafts will probably need replaced and at worst case it will have worn the cross tube oval rendering your beam as scrap.

 

You won't know untill you strip it down and look inside, so if you don't think you can do it, buy a refurbed one. I would say thats your best option tbh.

 

You've quite a lot of work ahead of you to get that car through an Mot you know, find yourself a good local welder to sort out the rust!

[Obey_R 23]

Yeah I know there's a lot of work but I have a while to get it done. It will be stored up until I can afford to get the rust sorted, hopefully in the next few months then the next bit will be the beam.

 

Thanks for all your help so far.

[zebedy101 0]

Getting the beam rebuilt can be expensive and cost more than £300 depending on parts used and labour costs, new stub axles then it can cost you a lot, you need to get the beam looked at really to see if it's a fit state to be rebuilt. Which garage are you looking at getting it done by? I work for Toyota in kings Lynn and am in regular contact with a lot of the garages round Lynn. I would recommend you too head towards Carl Chambers (gkz206) he is peugeot through and through. I'm sure he will sort your Mot no problem and can sort all the rot etc...

 

If you need a hand or any parts then pm me, i'm more than happy to help.

Edited April 19, 2010 by zebedy101

[DaveW 6]

Was that car on ebay from norwich?

[Obey_R 23]

.. Yes and there's a lot wrong with it that wasn't on the listing!

[DaveW 6]

I think that will cost you far too much to fix up for an mot bit of a shame really, drop me a pm i could come up and have a nose seeing as your not far away

[Obey_R 23]

Out of the 14 things there are only 3 that are going to cost money, two spots of welding and getting the beam sorted. Will drop you a pm.

[flipperthebushkangaroo 2]

I'm not quite sure where he means on number one, the only rust I can see is on the second photo I posted, which is only 6 or so inches from the drivers seatbelt fixing, could it be that?

 

Have you looked under the rear seat almost directly behind the centre of the drivers seat, There is a common rust spot under there. i believe this has caused MOT fails for some if you get a keen tester. Need to get mine sorted there soon as well.

[Obey_R 23]

Well I ripped the rear o/s interior off the popper so you can see the outer skin of the quarter panel and about 6 inches of he panel isn't even welded to the arch so it might have failed on that - being near to the seat belt anchorage. By the looks of it I might be best chopping out that bottom section of the quater panel and welding a new patch in with maybe a new outer sill?

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

nope, what the mot tester cant see, he cant fail you on!