Which Way To Go With Gti6 Engine Fitting

[gtimon 0]

Ok.

 

I think the time has come for me, where another Bug is starting to Bite by joining the ride and fitting a Gti6 engine in my track car.

 

I have searched and read many topics by various people who have gone down this route by fitting this engine and all have various methods of getting around the problem of Exhaust manifold and Brake master cylinder clearance.

 

1) Cutting Bulkhead and reweld a made-up tunnel, giving clearance to manifold/bulkhead.

 

2) Fitting a Wedge between the Cylinder head and Manifold to re-angle, giving clearance to manifold/bulkhead.

 

3) Lengthening the lower engine mount tie bracket to re-angle the engine, giving clearance to manifold/bulkhead and brake master cylinder/cam cover.

 

4) Cutting, re-angle manifold and reweld, giving clearance to manifold/bulkhead.

 

5) Fitting a pedal box with twin master cylinders, giving clearance to brake master cylinder/cam cover.

 

Yet no-one has mentioned about if possible by dropping the engine, say by 10/15mm. Where the gearbox can be dropped by approx. the same.

 

Some say its best to keep the engine where it lies for the benefit of the shafts, and yet that is not taken inaccount when the suspension is lowered or camber/caster angles are changed.

 

So what I am really asking which way did the majority go with the above listings, bearing in mind I shall be using the Group N mounting kit for gearbox, lower engine and upper engine. I shall keep the existing downpipe, modified to suit and use the existing Group N single rear silencer.

 

Has anyone actually dropped the engine with a different engine mount to help the exhaust/master cyl. clearance or by any other method not mention above.

 

Thanks

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

I think You can drop the engine slightly by using a r/h engine mount from a mk2 escort rs2000

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Yes you can but being blunt it's a bodge and the engine's end's up tilted both ways then and increase's the risk of the sump cracking as it's just on the ground out poiint in the std position.

[gtimon 0]

the engine's end's up tilted both ways then

 

Thanks

 

Could you explain what you are trying to say.?

 

How can the engine end up tilted both ways, when the gearbox would be lowered by the same amount and the bottom mount tie-bracket adjusted as required.

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

If it is done "properly", lowering both sides and adapting the fork then it is a good mod as it also (slightly) lowers the center of gravity, however as miles mentioned, if you using a standard sump it could be killed by a large speed bump...

 

The bodge way to do it is stick about 5 washers between the LH engine mount and the engine so you only drop that side of the engine (possibly what miles thought you meant.) an that would tilt it forwards and to the left...

 

 

Im planning on doing the first methord to my car over the summer aswell as a dry sump and many other nice little mods

 

Paul.

Edited April 7, 2010 by M_R_205

[All Praise The GTI 3]

i used the rs2000 mount and washers and tilted engine. ATE my driveshafst very quickly and it was a major bodge.

just fitted one of miles reangled manifolds and used washers on servo now it should be fine.

thanks miles

[Alastairh 47]

I have basically done the same as nat although I used Taylorspug to do my manifold as he was cheaper.

 

Al

[Matt Holley 11]

I fitted a maniflow manifold and tilted the servo a bit for clearence on the cam cover.

[gtimon 0]

i used the rs2000 mount and washers and tilted engine. ATE my driveshafst very quickly and it was a major bodge.

just fitted one of miles reangled manifolds and used washers on servo now it should be fine.

thanks miles

 

Ok Thanks.

 

Can anyone explain why should lowering & tilting the engine eat drive-shafts. Then when lowering the front suspension as some have by 30/50mm, does not eat shafts.

[tagy 1]

Is it be that people who have had problems have lowered both the car and the engine, which would combine the problem?

[shalmaneser 26]

Ok Thanks.

 

Can anyone explain why should lowering & tilting the engine eat drive-shafts. Then when lowering the front suspension as some have by 30/50mm, does not eat shafts.

 

I've not got any specific experience but I imagine that unless you're very accurate you'll end up with the engine in a slightly tilted position forward/aft,left/right and up/down, which will have the drive shafts poking out at all sorts of strange angles, which will no doubt contribute to wear!

 

The method of choice at the moment seems to be a re angled exhaust manifold, and washers under the master cylinder. Works for a lot of people, why mess with the formula?