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hothatch

Tips From Experience Please?

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hothatch

Only to be used on the roads on the weekends, with toyo proxys.

 

Or should I beef up to 1900 ?

 

Thankss

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Anthony

Decent quality new 1.6 driveshafts seem to cope fine, but a typical set of 20 year old / 100k+ mile ones will likely fail sooner rather than later.

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Baz

They're fine!

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hothatch

Thanks for your replys boys,, much appreicated. Answers just as I thought.

 

I will drive it on the old ones then replce them with new as time goes on. Thanks guys .

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Miles

If anything I;ve had better results with 1.6 shafts, Providing you don;t wheelspin etc which will kill them in no time

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hothatch
If anything I;ve had better results with 1.6 shafts, Providing you don;t wheelspin etc which will kill them in no time

 

Spot on thanks miles, obviously wheelspinning will munch them in no time.

 

I was just wondering miles , what do you sell for the conversion as I've just started mine yesterday and want to save time by just buying most of the parts.

 

Thanks

Ben

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Miles

The only parts you really need is the exhaust manifold and downpipe, Everything else is fairly much DIY or I can do the loom but these just need the connector fitting on the end as you cannot get it thru the bulkhead as the wires route under the header tank to stop the heat getting to them

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hothatch

well im confused now lol!

 

i have a loom on the way and with the wiring guide done by nicoali i am pretty confident splicing the wires and putting the 205 plugs on.

 

but i thought the loom i needed to change was the one going into the gromit by the steering columb? i didnt think i would have to touch the one by the expansion tank ? :P

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welshpug

Miles moves the engine wiring to the other side, nothing done to the existing wiring that runs the lights and rest of the car :P

 

Half of the engine loom on early cars ran through that side.

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hothatch

ahhhh i get you, im slow sometimes, far better way of keeping heat away from the wiring.

 

will i have problems with heat routing the loom where it is now, by the columb?

 

now ive removed the 8v engine can i remove the coil form the car aswell as its not going to be needed at all isit ?

 

does any one know where i can get a silicone coolant hose kit for the conversion? would save a lot of hassle? ive been searchiong all over the forum and can only find rough guidlines on how to do the coolant hoses and everyones has different ideas on the wrong ways and right ways to do things. :lol:

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Miles

Stew at BBm has most, the top Rad one is in the pipeline at the moment, But I'm unsure when it will be ready

 

Yes the looms I do bar the ECU loom is all new, No splicing or anything like that as it can lead to furture issue's, and all route under the exp bottle to keep the loom well away from the exhaust manifold which even in 8v form startes to melt the conduit.

But having a huge background in wiring does help, as a car is nothing compared to some battleships I;ve been on

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hothatch
Stew at BBm has most, the top Rad one is in the pipeline at the moment, But I'm unsure when it will be ready

 

Yes the looms I do bar the ECU loom is all new, No splicing or anything like that as it can lead to furture issue's, and all route under the exp bottle to keep the loom well away from the exhaust manifold which even in 8v form startes to melt the conduit.

But having a huge background in wiring does help, as a car is nothing compared to some battleships I;ve been on

 

Awsome stuff miles I would value your expereince but I've already purchased a converted loom and unlocked ecu before I posted this, I have a pretty backround with wiring with the artics and what have you but not like your expereience.

 

How much is the modified manifold and downpip ? I'm not to bothered about the boss for the lambda as I can do this myself but would be a plus.

 

Thanks

 

I will be routing the loom the otherside now I think haha

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hothatch
Stew at BBm has most, the top Rad one is in the pipeline at the moment, But I'm unsure when it will be ready

 

Yes the looms I do bar the ECU loom is all new, No splicing or anything like that as it can lead to furture issue's, and all route under the exp bottle to keep the loom well away from the exhaust manifold which even in 8v form startes to melt the conduit.

But having a huge background in wiring does help, as a car is nothing compared to some battleships I;ve been on

 

Any way miles I will be in contact for parts if that's ok

 

Thanks

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Anthony
I will be routing the loom the otherside now I think haha

Routing the loom through the drivers side of the car is fine - just make sure that you keep it as far away from the manifold as you can with a layer of heatproof wrap around the loom to protect it.

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hothatch
Routing the loom through the drivers side of the car is fine - just make sure that you keep it as far away from the manifold as you can with a layer of heatproof wrap around the loom to protect it.

 

Yeah thanks for the comment, thinking about it thougjh routing it down the near side will look much neater.

 

I ll see when I come to it. I think I'm gona round up most of the parts first. Get everything I need whilst cleaning and prepping the bay.

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pugpete1108

originally i routed my wiring on the drivers side but as its pretty tight round there anyway what with the brake cylinder and fuel lines etc i decided to run mine all through the pass side and into the back of the glovebox.

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hcmini1989
originally i routed my wiring on the drivers side but as its pretty tight round there anyway what with the brake cylinder and fuel lines etc i decided to run mine all through the pass side and into the back of the glovebox.

me tow drilled a hole in the bulk head behind the glovebox .and its spot on .well sort off i couldnt get a gromit big enough so i used a hose pipe end :lol:

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hothatch

Will bear this info in mind boys thanks. Other peoples ideas always help.

 

If you could find a scrap lorrie they got nice big grommits in the bulk heads, would be ideal lol :lol:

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