Trigger Wheel

[Agsie 0]

I will be running a Motec M4 on an 8V XU engine.

The flywheel is a lightened version and as such I want to run the trigger wheel and crank sensor at the crank alternator pulley end, rather than use the OE toothed version flywheel.

 

I understand that I need a 5 3/4" trigger wheel since my pulley measures 5" OD.

 

Some related links I found:

Trigger Wheel Installation

 

 

Finding TDC

 

Trigger Wheel Timing

 

 

My questions are:

 

1. What is the best way to attach the trigger wheel to my pulley? Also is a ring design more suited to this pulley than a full wheel? Does anyone have any photos of a trigger wheel on an 8V pulley?

(I suppose alternatively the trigger wheel could just be clamped by the crank bolt, using a thinner washer, but timing is still required somehow)

 

2. The trigger wheel needs to be timed to the keyway in the pulley, but what is the relationship required between the keyway and missing tooth?

 

Thanks for your help.

[welshpug 1,655]

if you're running motec you can program the ecu to work off whatever angle from tdc the gap is without having to get is set to any particular angle, though you do need to know what that angle is to program the ecu.

[Mad Professor 7]

I know you say you are using motec.

The ford EDIS-4 36-1 setup needs tooth 9 pointing at the sensor at TDC.

The stock 60-2 is 114deg so thats tooth 19 or 20.

 

I can't find any pictures of when I had my trigger wheel on the pully only this quick video: EDIS in limp home mode.wmv

 

This was on my 8v Turbo Technics, before I moved over to using the stock 60-2 Flywheel.

Edited March 27, 2010 by Mad Professor

[Agsie 0]

Thanks for the replies so far.

 

Found this photo whilst doing some further searching

 

 

Within this thread: Link for thread related to photo above

 

More info on the weber-alpha timing wheel and bracket can be found in this thread:

Weber-alpha timing wheel

With those 2005 prices quoted I will be staying clear of those parts.

 

Another photo of the weber-alpha crank timing arrangement on an 8V XU can be seen on page 71 of their catalogue: Weber-alpha catalogue

 

There is a drawing of it on page 70 which I may be able to use to measure the angle between the keyway slot and missing tooth.

 

Does anyone know the crankshaft keyway angle when cyl 1 is at tdc?

[welshpug 1,655]

the keyway is directly inline with # 1/4 crankpins from the two cranks I have here

[Agsie 0]

Thanks for that.

 

Is the keyway at 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock when at #1 tdc?

[Agsie 0]

Found another photo:

 

 

 

Two photos above from this thread

[welshpug 1,655]

12, i.e inline with 1/4, not 2/3

[petert 585]

For the sake of all the mucking around, if a really light weight flywheel is important, why not just buy an aluminium flywheel and run std. 60-2 setup with an OEM sensor?

[AtoM 0]

I´m using a Megasquirt ECU and using a trigger wheel like the one you want.

 

 

But now i´m having problems to have the car running how it should. I revs normally, works well and rides good as well, but sometimes it loses signal and you can year the fuel relai. When the car is cold it is very rare to happen, but when the car starts to be at its normal working temperature it happens a lot, and it can be idling, on acceleration or deceleration. I´ve tried different positions of the sensor and different sensors, and it is always almost the same.

This is driving me mad, as i´m struggling with this since christmas, so I think i´ll just go with for the method of the flywheel.

[Agsie 0]

Well, I decided that a robust solution at the pulley end was not really available.

 

The application is on a rally car and I was concerned about the vulnerablity of the sensor and bracket.

 

Therefore, today I have bought a flywheel from an XU7JP4 engine (1.8 16valve, Motronic 60-2 trigger teeth).

This was from a Peugeot 406 but the engines were fitted to other cars (some 306 and some citroens). This flywheel was also fitted to late 205Gti's with Motronic management systems.

 

The XU7JP4 flywheel suits a clutch diameter of 200mm, same as standard GTi's (not 215mm like the Mi16).

 

I will have the flywheel lightened and balanced in a similar way to my current flywheel so it should end up not too much heavier.

 

Using an OE sensor, with the sensor and trigger teeth housed within the gearbox housing should be much more durable.

 

I did briefly investigate aluminium flywheels, but couldn't find one available with the steel trigger teeth required, as well as not really wanting the extra expense. Which is why I also did not go for a steel billet light flywheel.

[welshpug 1,655]

that flywheel will do the job well, iirc its about 6.5kg's, less than a standard 1.9 but heavier than a 1.6 flywheel.

Edited April 1, 2010 by welshpug