Changing Bearings Without Removing Engine?

[rescue dude 0]

I have a 1.9, 8 valve which is suffering from a decrease in oil pressure. Nothing too horrible but enough to warrant changing the main and big end bearings.

 

The question is, can i change them from underneath by removing the sump and dropping the crank or has the engine got to come out? If so any special thing's to watch out for?

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

It's probably doable in the extreme, but would be hassle. You've got to drop the box off anyhow, and coupled with the belt at the other end and all the fun of having oil drip all over you while you're doing it, I'd just think for an extra hour of labour you can lift the whole lump out and do it nice and cleanly with easy access to everything.

[rescue dude 0]

That's very true Brum. It was just a casual thought. As i can't do it myself, having nowhere to do it, I was trying to save some money on labour.

 

I have someone lined up to do it but he's in no rush and it's my everyday car so i am.

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

I know what you mean. In the past (not bearing changes, but other similar pain-in-the-ass jobs!) I've thought about some short-cut way to save not taking something off, and it's ended up such a royal fidget I wish I'd just done it the 'right' way in the first place I suspect we've all been there and done that at some stage

 

Ply your man with a few beers, just make sure he sobers up before he starts the work

[rescue dude 0]

I'm plying him with cash at the moment but he's busy doing work for other people. (The cheek of it !!!)

[luggy 13]

There was a member on this forum from south Wales sometime ago, cant remember his name. I do recall the topic name "Rattle me this Rattle me that", but I cant find the thread. He had issues with low oil pressure where going around corners the stop light would illuminate and the big ends were knocking . Big end bearings were changed in situ which improved the oil pressure but he stated it was only a temp fix.

 

I take that you've checked that the crank pulley bolt is tight?

Does the stop light ever come on?

Get oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge as the pug ones arent reliable.

 

Just a few cheap things to check before you condem the bearings!

[rescue dude 0]

There was a member on this forum from south Wales sometime ago, cant remember his name. I do recall the topic name "Rattle me this Rattle me that", but I cant find the thread. He had issues with low oil pressure where going around corners the stop light would illuminate and the big ends were knocking . Big end bearings were changed in situ which improved the oil pressure but he stated it was only a temp fix.

 

I take that you've checked that the crank pulley bolt is tight?

Does the stop light ever come on?

Get oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge as the pug ones arent reliable.

 

Just a few cheap things to check before you condem the bearings!

 

 

The engine had a nut and bolt rebuild about 20,000 miles ago and has ran faultlessly since. It has been hillclimbing for the last 4 years and is probably due a rebuild anyway.

 

The stop light never come's on and i've not checked the bottom pulley bolt. Can this work loose by itself?

 

At the moment the oil pressure when warm is just over the second white marker, about 2 1/4 if you know what i mean. Dropping to just below it on tickover.

 

It always ran quite happily over the third white marker up until about a month ago.

I'll have to see about trying it with a mechanical gauge.

 

What should the oil pressure be?

[Anthony 1,003]

Try a proper mechanical gauge first, as the standard sender and gauge can do some odd things and give the impression of low pressure when everything is actually fine.

[luggy 13]

My rebuilt MI with new bearnigs, 52 link oil pump drive chain and 26t drive sprocket with 6 bar spring on cold startup gives 6bar on cold startup and just over 1 bar at hot/warm idle.

 

I have the reassurance that the engine has been rebuilt so I dont pay too much attention to the oil pressure gauge, if the stop light comes on thats when I'd start bricking it.

 

Pic courtesy of Zoldama off the main 205 site.

[rescue dude 0]

Now your pics are scary Luggy.

 

I'll get myself a proper gauge and see what it is.

 

I assume it connect's up in place of the larger of the 2 sender's on the front of the block? ie the expensive one.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You must get the crank check as I bet it will need a polish or grind at the least if never done before, False economy changing the bearings alone as it will just do the same in no time at all

[rescue dude 0]

You must get the crank check as I bet it will need a polish or grind at the least if never done before, False economy changing the bearings alone as it will just do the same in no time at all

 

 

If the bearing's need changing i'm deffo going to get the crank checked.

[luggy 13]

Good old google, found the link to the thread!

 

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=57405

 

He wasnt from south Wales

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Ignore the standard gauge. My joint owned Mi track car has been showing down to the first white bar on hot tickover for ages. Having fitted a proper Stack gauge we now know this is 30 psi which is fine.

[rescue dude 0]

Good old google, found the link to the thread!

 

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=57405

 

He wasnt from south Wales

 

 

Cheers. Interesting thread.

 

 

Anyone know what thread size the oil pressure sender on the front of the block is? That's where presumably i connect a mechanical guage?

[Anthony 1,003]

Anyone know what thread size the oil pressure sender on the front of the block is? That's where presumably i connect a mechanical guage?

From memory (and hence I'd double check this before ordering anything!) the thread for the oil pressure gauge sender is 10x1.

[rescue dude 0]

From memory (and hence I'd double check this before ordering anything!) the thread for the oil pressure gauge sender is 10x1.

 

Cheer's Anthony. Anyone care to confirm before I order a gauge?

 

So if Anthony is correct,which i'm sure he is, I need to order a gauge and to keep the oe gauge still working, a 10x1 M&F tee piece?

Edited March 25, 2010 by rescue dude

[welshpug 1,666]

yeah, the large one is 10x1, the smaller switch is 16 x 1.5.

 

you'd need a M-F-F tee.

[rescue dude 0]

yeah, the large one is 10x1, the smaller switch is 16 x 1.5.

 

you'd need a M-F-F tee.

 

Cheer's guy's ordering it now.

 

Should get it fitted over the weekend so i'll let you know just how bad/good my oil pressure really is.

Edited March 25, 2010 by rescue dude

[sub205 5]

the senders are often garbage, especially when the pressure seems to drop with raising rpm... had such a sender one day and after changing everything was fine.

 

you can change the main bearings without removing the crank! for the upper shells you need a small rod like a shortened drill which you can put into the oil hole in the crank, it has to look out for about 1-2mm. with this pin in the hole you can remove the upper shell just by rotating the crank!

[rescue dude 0]

After paying for next day delivery, which would have been friday, and spending a morning arguing with Parcel Farce I now have all the bit's to fit my gauge.

 

No time now so weather permitting i'll do it tomorrow.

[rescue dude 0]

Right I fitted the gauge.

 

All the figure's are with the engine up to full temp.

 

Tickover-28psi

 

3000 rpm-56psi

 

4000 rpm-64psi

 

Opinions?

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Sounds absolutely fine to me.

 

If you are still in doubt, get it hot with a period of high speed driving, e.g. motorway/dual track. Then from high speed come to a halt and let it idle. As long as it maintains pressure then when it is stinking hot, it is fine.

[rescue dude 0]

Sounds absolutely fine to me.

 

If you are still in doubt, get it hot with a period of high speed driving, e.g. motorway/dual track. Then from high speed come to a halt and let it idle. As long as it maintains pressure then when it is stinking hot, it is fine.

 

 

I've just had a chat with the dude's at West mids motorsport and they say the same. "don't worry about it"

 

I'm well chuffed as a rebuild now would have screwed my season up.

 

Thank's for everyone's help and advice.