Removing Main Bearing End Cap

[fuji 0]

Hi - I need to remove the main bearing end cap (fly wheel end) in order to repair a hole in the suface (corrosion). Can this be done with the engine in place and how difficult would it be to replace the two seals when refitting?

Thanks.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

The 2 seals I take it you mean the golf club/hockey shape seals? If so you'd need the gearbox out to get the crank oil seal to sit in correct. You could probably do it with the engine in the car but it is alot of work just to replace those wee seals. Are they definatley leaking badly? Ive only ever done them out of the car myself. Needs to be nice and clean and a wee smear of sealer used, well thats what ive done on my last 6 engines and they never leaked.

[Sandy 191]

That's going to be almost impossible in situ I would, or at least to clean up effectively enough to get a good seal on re-fitting. When you say repair it, what damage is there, how do you intend to repair it?

[fuji 0]

Hi Guys - if you follow the link you can see the problem. Basically there is a hole across the face of the bearing cap where one of the sump bolts screw in. The bolt has been missing for some time and corrosion set in. I am not sure what other options i have unless I could repair with plastic metal filler?

Thanks in advance.

http://s440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/f...mview=slideshow

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Hi Guys - if you follow the link you can see the problem. Basically there is a hole across the face of the bearing cap where one of the sump bolts screw in. The bolt has been missing for some time and corrosion set in. I am not sure what other options i have unless I could repair with plastic metal filler?

Thanks in advance.

http://s440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/f...mview=slideshow

 

Better get a new block I guess.

 

Someone probably used a too long bolt on the sump, or something wrecking the cap partly?

However how the damage on the underside did occur is a little bit confusing for me? Can't be corroded like that, something have broken off it seem like.

 

It's not just to change the cap either as it's line bored and fits only the exact engine block it comes from.

 

Best bet to get it properly fixed is as I said get a new block

[fuji 0]

Better get a new block I guess.

 

Someone probably used a too long bolt on the sump, or something wrecking the cap partly?

However how the damage on the underside did occur is a little bit confusing for me? Can't be corroded like that, something have broken off it seem like.

 

It's not just to change the cap either as it's line bored and fits only the exact engine block it comes from.

 

Best bet to get it properly fixed is as I said get a new block

 

A piece of metal fell away from the block when I took the spacer plate off, so I guess the corrosion set in where perhaps the thread had been destroyed by using to long a bolt. I suspect the oversized bolt caused a split in the face of the cap. Do you think the hole could be welded of filled with plastic metal?

[fuji 0]

Supplimentary Question: Can anyone confirm what metal the end caps are made of - aluminium\cast steel or iron. Thanks.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

It is cast iron afaik.. have no idea if it will be good if you try to fix it with liquid metal etc..

 

I always have bad feelings aboug such "bodgy" fixes but have never tried really

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Some of the latest epoxy metal products really are quite good. There is a large range nowadays, used in engineering applications. At work we have used Belzona compression, this sets to give a compressive strength equal to that of steel plate. We performed a successful repair to an area that takes tons of load per square inch. Belzona and Loctite both make products that with sufficient cleaning would make a permanent repair to that area, to the point of being able to drill and tap it.

 

Certainly worth a try anyway before major dismantling.

[pablo 0]

gotta be worth a go before swapping engine blocks Id have thought. Cant see why you couldnt do it in situ as long as the box was removed.