steble 1 Posted March 4, 2010 i will be doing the front wheel bearing on my 205 at the weekend hopefully, is it a fairly straight forward job? any tips before i start? cheers steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shalmaneser 26 Posted March 4, 2010 it's OK if you have a massive press, a bit tricky if you don't.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugpete1108 62 1 Cars Posted March 4, 2010 i did mine with a big hammer but tbh it was a pian in the arse. i got one to do on my xsara and i'm gonna get it pressed out and in i think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steble 1 Posted March 4, 2010 bugger thats not what i wanted to hear, so hub has to come off and go in a press then. i can get to one if i have to Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish210 20 Posted March 4, 2010 I've done a few recently heres how i did them: Place new bearing to be fitted in the freezer Remove the hub. Remove the circlip from the inside of the hub Remove the inside of the bearing, all the ballraces and gubbins just leaving the casing Run a bead of MIG weld around the inside of the bearing casing. You need to wack the voltage up to get some good heat in to it but be careful not to penetrate the casing as you'll end up welding the casing to the hub. Quickly smash the old casing out with a lump hammer. It should come out very easily, the last few i did allmost dropped out. Clean up the hub. Keep the hub warm with a heat gun. Remove the new bearing from the freezer Drop the bearing in to the hub. Because of the different temperatures it should just drop in, no need to hit it with a hammer or press it in. Fit the new circlip Refit the hub to the car and torque up the hubnut correctly. Job done Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted March 4, 2010 yes you will need a press really to get it back in don't bother with the press to get the old bearing out, its quicker and easier to just use a lump hammer and a large impact socket or something else of a suitable size and stiffness that you can smack the s*it out of and hammer it out. you'll need some plusgas, a wire brush, some small ended punches and a hammer to loosen the circlip (most likely) and some circlip pliers ideally to get the old circlip out and new one in you'll also need access to some blanks or a range of sockets to help press the new bearing in without destroying it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MerlinGTI 3 Posted March 4, 2010 Press is the best option obviously, but next best thing: http://auto.frost.co.uk/frost/Bearing%20Drift You can use the above in two ways: 1) with a big hammer 2) With a short length of threaded stud (B&Q etc..) and a couple of nuts. Effectively winding the bearing in. Slow, controlled and bearing friendly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish210 20 Posted March 4, 2010 yes you will need a press really to get it back in Try it my way, they've never been near a press and the job has never been easier Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted March 4, 2010 ah cool give swordfish's method a go, sounds like it works a treat!! i'll have to give that a whirl next time i need to do one and if i can find space in my tiny freezer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steble 1 Posted March 4, 2010 I've done a few recently heres how i did them: Place new bearing to be fitted in the freezer Remove the hub. Remove the circlip from the inside of the hub Remove the inside of the bearing, all the ballraces and gubbins just leaving the casing Run a bead of MIG weld around the inside of the bearing casing. You need to wack the voltage up to get some good heat in to it but be careful not to penetrate the casing as you'll end up welding the casing to the hub. Quickly smash the old casing out with a lump hammer. It should come out very easily, the last few i did allmost dropped out. Clean up the hub. Keep the hub warm with a heat gun. Remove the new bearing from the freezer Drop the bearing in to the hub. Because of the different temperatures it should just drop in, no need to hit it with a hammer or press it in. Fit the new circlip Refit the hub to the car and torque up the hubnut correctly. Job done bugger me that sounds like a bit of a polarva, i prefer minis ha ha good method though only problem is i dont have a welder i could remove the hub and go up my mate workshop with it though i'll just have to do it when i got my mini back just incase i get stuck without a car while trying to catch him Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,645 Posted March 4, 2010 I use the old bearing outer race to press the new one in, and I use the old inner race placed on the outer side with a suitable socket on the outside to press the old one out. I have access to a 15t press, it's great I have seen Mark's method done on a DAF XF 450 rear diff bearing, got the thing glowing cherry all the way round then a swift thump with the copper hammer and off it came, 20 ton didn't shift it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MerlinGTI 3 Posted March 4, 2010 Are my posts invisible? /\ /\ A small out lay for a drift set (they can be had cheaper than that, link was for example) and some stud if you wanna get fancy and the jobs done. Easy peasy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steble 1 Posted March 4, 2010 only problem with buying tooling is i'm proper skint lol i'll nip up to my mates workshop with it, by the sounds of it that'll be my best bet Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish210 20 Posted March 4, 2010 I have seen Mark's method done on a DAF XF 450 rear diff bearing, got the thing glowing cherry all the way round then a swift thump with the copper hammer and off it came, 20 ton didn't shift it! Heat expands metal but when it in constricted as in the case of the bearing shell it can't expand so when heat is applied to it will contract, enough to make it drop out of the hub sometimes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugpete1108 62 1 Cars Posted March 4, 2010 I've done a few recently heres how i did them: Place new bearing to be fitted in the freezer Remove the hub. Remove the circlip from the inside of the hub Remove the inside of the bearing, all the ballraces and gubbins just leaving the casing Run a bead of MIG weld around the inside of the bearing casing. You need to wack the voltage up to get some good heat in to it but be careful not to penetrate the casing as you'll end up welding the casing to the hub. Quickly smash the old casing out with a lump hammer. It should come out very easily, the last few i did allmost dropped out. Clean up the hub. Keep the hub warm with a heat gun. Remove the new bearing from the freezer Drop the bearing in to the hub. Because of the different temperatures it should just drop in, no need to hit it with a hammer or press it in. Fit the new circlip Refit the hub to the car and torque up the hubnut correctly. Job done feck me this sounds like a plan, i'm all over this tomorrow wish me luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 243 3 Cars Posted March 5, 2010 Replacing Front Wheel Bearing, A how to guide. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish210 20 Posted March 5, 2010 feck me this sounds like a plan, i'm all over this tomorrow wish me luck. Cool, let us know how you get on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BusEngineer 7 Posted March 5, 2010 Done mine this afternoon at work Thats in a fully equipped bus garage . . . . . Bloody nightmare!!! Wouldnt rush to do another set! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,536 Posted March 5, 2010 Often the hardest bit is getting the old circlip out. Once this is done then it is just donkey work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
