Top Engine Mount - Group N Replacement

[shed_racing 0]

Hi Guys,

 

Hopefully this is in the right forum, and shouldn't be in the modded one

 

Replaced both of the top engine mounts on my 8v 1.6 Ph 1.5 recently with BBM ones from stu. Managed to replace the top one (o/s) with a little guidance from Miles and now have an issue; At 3K, everything shakes, and I mean everything so that I can't see out of the rear view mirror.

 

There were no shims or anything behind the old buffers (the two square fellas that bolt to the bodywork, one in front and one behind the bobbin) when I removed the old ones so I didn't put any back; similarly, the bent metal square "spring" (OE description, not mine) that looks like it should sit on top of the bobbin mount (?) was snapped, so I lost it.

 

There's about 3-4mm of play either side of the bobbin mount between that and the body-buffers; would the shims mentioned in the servicebox diagram space out the square buffers against the bobbin ? If so, I can make some up from an old stainless cooker hood I have in the garage rather than buy the box from the main stealer

 

Is that how it's supposed to be anyway, all three of them in very close proximity ie touching ? I think I'd only need two spacers per side to close the gap, but I'm concerend that this will make the vibrations worse.

 

Last question - do I need the "spring" on top of the bobbin under the bracket to the engine ?

 

I've yet to pluck up the courage to replace the bottom bush, although it's already in a spare mount sitting on the workbench, patiently awaiting installation - maybe this would reduce the shaking anyway

 

Appreciate any guidance . . .

 

(PS - did a search for engine+top+mount and got far too many results, none of which looked like they'd help !)

 

Thanks a lot.

[welshpug 1,657]

the spring is there to stop any squeaking, there shouldn't be too much of a gap so making up some spacers to pack the buffers a little closer is a very common trick, stainless would be ideal as it wont corrode as much as some ferrous stuff.

 

this should help a little, but I wouldn't worry about anything till you get the bottom mount and fork bush sorted.

[Bottrill 0]

I found the compound far to hard for road use, hence the vibrations throughout the cabin making it virtually undrivable on the road. If you pad out the GPN shims it will make it worse as the contact of the top of the mount on the harder buffer will again transfer the vibrations rather than absorbing. I went through every combination of standard mount, original buffers etc, eventually putting a standard new mount on.

I padded out the original buffers using a stanless spacers from B&Q for £1.98 per pack.

 

Hope that helps.

[Baz 421]

They are fairly harsh for the first few thousand miles but do settle down a bit.

[hengti 2]

just echoing what Botrill's said - if you've gpN'd the buffers as well, shimming them up to the mount (i just used thick washers) will make the vibrations much worse

 

you could buy a pair of std buffers from Peugeot and shim them up to see if you think that's liveable. they might also sell the angled shim that sits ontop of the mount, but it's not critical

 

i used to swap between uprated and std top mounts as the track season came and went - the uprated top mount does make a big difference, but it's quite uncivilised on a daily and was unbearable for me with the uprated buffers (properly shimmed up)

[24seven 104]

Agree with Baz, the BBM group N stuff is quite hard for a good 2-3k I found, but after that they settle in very nicely and are perfectly comfortable for everyday use.

 

Have you replaced both the engine and gearbox mount? Ideally you should replace both at the same time, possibly even the lower mount as well.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Agree with Baz, the BBM group N stuff is quite hard for a good 2-3k I found, but after that they settle in very nicely and are perfectly comfortable for everyday use.

 

My Group N mount has just seen over 50,000miles of action. I wondered why everything had stopped rattling.

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

I just use the standard mounts and buffers but space the buffers out with thick washers,whenever i get a towbar in at work that needs removing i save back the washers from these as they are nice and thick,and using one washer behind each buffer is good enough to take out all of the play

[shed_racing 0]

Sorry chaps - in the garage replacing the NFG Valeo drivers door lock with another Valeo one . . . grrrr - now the pigging central locking mechanism is playing up; It'll unlock everything, but then only locks the drivers door (sometimes) - I then have to run around the car like a plum locking the boot and pass. door in turn !! off to do a search on that now !

 

 

Thanks very much for all of the replies - I HAVE replaced the mount under the battery tray with a similar fella, and have the lower mount yet to do (and get hold of a fork bush, too)

 

Though that I'd done something wrong with the top mount ! Will shim it out, add a bit of rubber grease, and see how we go.

 

Will do the lower mount this weekend, and maybe a trip to the main stealer to procure a standard top mount (girl that I am !)

 

Thanks again for all of your helpful suggestions.

[sub205 5]

another trick is using the 306 XSI top mount rubbers. these are not 2 separate parts, its 1 part with 2 rubbers per side and holds the engine very solid.

 

check the servicebox. its part # 1844 25

[Guest fakenathan]

probably a dumb question but what are the benefits of a group N mount?

[SurGie 54]

They reduce the engine movement when you put your foot down, which means more horse's are going to the drive-shafts.

 

I have found with both my 306 and 205 gti ~ (waiting for its heart) had more vibration when i'd not driven it for a while but as soon as iv been on a good drive they soften up nicely and stay softer until its rested a week or so.