Swirl Pot

[smckeown 1]

is the fuel gauge sender on the filler side then ? also i assume the fuel gauge will still read correct as it's measuring depth ?

[petert 587]

the guage and fuel pump still stay in the same place, all you're doing is chopping off the passenger side of the tank. Fuel goes over the strap in a RH, then can't get back.

[Powers 13]

Any news on this topic?

Cheers.

[16v205 9]

Hi,

 

Ive got my surge tank up and running now since mid november.

 

Im using the original 205 pump to fill the surge tank, the overflow of the surge tank returns through the pump as original.

A second fuel pump takes the fuel from the surge tank and fills the injection rail which is regulated to 3 bar pressure at the end of the rail, the fuel rail return goes back to the surge tank at low pressure.

 

Because theres no restriction or fuel presure build up in the tank the whole system runs at low pressure apart from one fuel pipe from the second pump to the fuel rail.

 

I can run my car now with the fuel light on and still not get any surge problems

 

Rich

[smckeown 1]

thought i'd drag this thread up as i'm thinking about doing the same mod. have you tested this setup on the track ?

[Jonmurgie 2]

Not sure why your asking this Sean, it's going to work as that's how it's done... black and white stuff really

[petert 587]

A picture tells a thousand words. Cheap as chips and track proven.

Edited April 4, 2006 by petert

[Jonmurgie 2]

Well that pics is only kind of wispering at me... I'm guessing that a standard fuel tank, cut and plastic welded so it't not as wide? Seems a lot of effort when a swirl pot and an extra pump will sort the issue as well...

[petert 587]

eh? Swirl pots and extra pumps must be very cheap in the UK. Using a hand saw and plastic welding is cheap in Sydney.

 

And I'm taking away mass, you're adding it!

Edited April 4, 2006 by petert

[smckeown 1]

as with most solutions, the simplest is always the best.

 

Shame my hunt for plastic welding turned up nothing last time

[Jonmurgie 2]

Swirl Tank - £80

Fuel Pump - £80

So around £160 for that solution, and it's all simple fitting...

 

Removing the tank, ensureing it's compleltey empty of all fuel, then finding a plastic welder who will work on a fuel tanks... all sounds like hassle to me!

[petert 587]

$90+$10 for travel.

[Anthony 1,003]

Removing the tank, ensureing it's compleltey empty of all fuel, then finding a plastic welder who will work on a fuel tanks... all sounds like hassle to me!

Removing the fuel tank is a 15 minute job - jack up car, remove exhaust, undo filler pipe, undo center strap/heatshield, undo two bolts securing the tank, lower tank and remove breathers and fuel lines when it's partly lowered. Draining of the fuel and vapour is easy enough too - just finding a plastic welder...

[smckeown 1]

plus it's a simpler solution, i.e. only 1 pump to go wrong and only 1 tank to leak from

[Powers 13]

I personally prefer the fuel tank option. As Petert mentioned it is by far a cheaper option, the extra fuel connections will add a lot to your quoted price Jon.

You also have the added safety that there isnt a large quantity of fuel in the engine bay to destroy your new engine and auxiliaries if you have a bad head-on crash.

Another extra benefit of cutting the tank is that you have the option of adding baffles to prevent fuel surge/starvation even more.