Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

dino20vt

250lbs Front Springs On Coilovers

Recommended Posts

dino20vt

Following on from this thread:

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...115584&st=0

 

 

And my post:

"I received 8" 250lbs springs, I'm guessing this will be quite harsh for a road going/occasional track day alloy 16v 1.9? 

 

Trouble is if I return them for softer springs will they be mis matched to the dampers as they would have been 'valved' for the 250lbs springs?

 

But if I stick with the springs I'm going to need some f@cking thick/expensive TB's and ARB to match.

 

What to do?"

 

 

 

 

My questions are:

 

Will the 250 lbs springs be to harsh for the road?

 

If not what spec rear ARB and TB's should I go for and where can I can some from?

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Baz

About 22/23/24mm's IMO. Depending on personal preferences, whether you prefer the front or back to be harder.

 

You could just stick some lower poundage front springs on it if you don't want to ruin the comfort levels too much, i don't think it's a major issue with running lesser springs on these coilovers, let's face it they're budget coilovers in the great scheme of things anyway, i don't think they're *that* specifically valved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Somebody posted a brilliant table a while back, showing the spring rate of various thickness torsion bars. I chose to go with 24mm bars to match my 350lb/in springs, it works out at about 300lb/in and I have to say it's a pretty perfect combination. It is a bloody firm ride but it's actually surprisingly smooth. :)

 

I'd say with 250lb something like 22-23mm bars would be good. Basically what Baz said.

Edited by Cameron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Here you go!

Image1.jpg

 

Short Swedish dicitonary; stavdiameter = bar diameter, hjulkonstant = wheel rate (spring rate at contact patch).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Just to add a little more, the table above shows the wheel rate rather than the actual spring rate. This means you have to know the installation ratio (the ratio between wheel movement and shock movement) to work out what your front wheel rate is.

 

The IR for the 205 front suspension is something like 4:5, so (4 x 250lb) / 5 = 200lb wheel rate with your 250lb springs. So you probably want to go for the 22mm bars, which will give you a 183lb rear wheel rate.

 

Hope that makes sense! :)

Edited by Cameron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Baz

That was the table i was trying to remember!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dino20vt
Just to add a little more, the table above shows the wheel rate rather than the actual spring rate. This means you have to know the installation ratio (the ratio between wheel movement and shock movement) to work out what your front wheel rate is.

 

The IR for the 205 front suspension is something like 4:5, so (4 x 250lb) / 5 = 200lb wheel rate with your 250lb springs. So you probably want to go for the 22mm bars, which will give you a 183lb rear wheel rate.

 

Hope that makes sense! :)

 

It makes perfect sense if what im about to say is correct!

 

22 mm tb's which is 183lbs which is the nearest match to the front which is 200lb wheel rate?!

Edited by dino20vt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dino20vt

Ps what about anti roll bars, keep standard 205 diameter or go thicker, what options are available for the front?

I have a thicker 309 gti front ARB if it's any use?

 

Thanks for the quality replies by the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Yeah that's right, you won't want a higher spring rate at the back as there's less weight there.

 

Anti-roll bars are a personal preference so don't be too keen to accept the massive rear ARB trend. An ARB is basically used to tune the handling, and the only way you're going to know if it needs it is to drive your car and then decide weather you think it understeers a bit too much or is alright. I have a standard rear ARB and at the moment it seems to be pretty nicely balanced, but then I like a neutral chassis rather than an oversteering one.

 

The thing to remember is that an ARB is used to balance a chassis, and it does that by reducing grip at one end - the end you fit the ARB to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alastairh

Rather than looking at spread sheets. I use to own a 205 Mi16 running 275lb front springs on Gaz coilovers and standard 205 front ARB with a 309 rear beam and 23mm torsion bars and 25mm anti roll bar.

 

It handled very well, even better once i tried a few different makes of tyres to suite the character of the car and suspension and kept on top of all the other bushes and ball joints connected around it because it put more strain on these. This was strictly a hard core road going car but its now being used on track by the new owner.

 

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Funny that, because 257lb springs work out at a 220lb wheel rate, which almost exactly matches 23mm torsion bars (219lb). :(

 

Don't knock the spreadsheet, it's a really handy quick reference guide if you need a ball-park figure!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shalmaneser

That spreadsheet is bloody useful.

 

This topic well and truly bookmarked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alastairh
Funny that, because 257lb springs work out at a 220lb wheel rate, which almost exactly matches 23mm torsion bars (219lb). :(

 

Don't knock the spreadsheet, it's a really handy quick reference guide if you need a ball-park figure!

 

Thats ok then. Its good to refer the spread sheet to real life experience and see positive results!

 

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Baz

Yes but is the spreadsheet for 205 or 309 bars, or does it matter even?? :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rippthrough
The IR for the 205 front suspension is something like 4:5, so (4 x 250lb) / 5 = 200lb wheel rate with your 250lb springs. So you probably want to go for the 22mm bars, which will give you a 183lb rear wheel rate.

 

???

 

Motion ratio of 5:4 wheel/damper?

 

Which means that a 250lb spring is 160lb wheel rate, no?

 

Which kinda cocks this up:

 

Funny that, because 257lb springs work out at a 220lb wheel rate, which almost exactly matches 23mm torsion bars (219lb)
Edited by Rippthrough

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

How the hell did you work that out?

 

Wheel rate = Spring rate x Installation ratio = 250 x (4 / 5) = 250 x 0.8 = 200.

 

Can't for the life of me figure out how you got 160lb!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rippthrough
How the hell did you work that out?

 

Wheel rate = Spring rate x Installation ratio = 250 x (4 / 5) = 250 x 0.8 = 200.

 

Can't for the life of me figure out how you got 160lb!

 

 

Your equation is wrong, wheel rate = spring rate * (motion ratio)^2

Edited by Rippthrough

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
taylorspug
Rather than looking at spread sheets. I use to own a 205 Mi16 running 275lb front springs on Gaz coilovers and standard 205 front ARB with a 309 rear beam and 23mm torsion bars and 25mm anti roll bar.

 

It handled very well, even better once i tried a few different makes of tyres to suite the character of the car and suspension and kept on top of all the other bushes and ball joints connected around it because it put more strain on these. This was strictly a hard core road going car but its now being used on track by the new owner.

 

Al

 

How dare you use real life as a reference- back of the line now! What we need here is more theory! :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Baz

PMSL!! :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron
Your equation is wrong, wheel rate = spring rate * (motion ratio)^2

 

Well s*it, so it is! :)

 

How dare you use real life as a reference- back of the line now! What we need here is more theory! ;)

 

Take the piss all you want, wheel rates are a very important thing to know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rippthrough
Well s*it, so it is! :)

 

:P

 

Wheel rates are only much good if you have the corner weights to go with 'em really ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shalmaneser
Your equation is wrong, wheel rate = spring rate * (motion ratio)^2

 

Where did you get ^2 from?

 

this is simple mechanics....I'm sure Cam's right?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

I've been meaning to take the corner weights on mine for ages.. I want the CG height for Lotus Shark. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron
Where did you get ^2 from?

 

this is simple mechanics....I'm sure Cam's right?!

 

No he's right. The force at the wheel is simply Spring rate x Installation ratio, but the actual wheel rate is Spring rate x IR^2.

 

It's because the wheel rate is force @ wheel divided by wheel movement, so you need IR twice.

 

I know that's going to make no sense to 99% of people, but it does. :)

Edited by Cameron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Henry 1.9GTi

Why should a 205 with rear wheel rate of 219 and front wheel rate of 160 feel alot stiffer at the front?

 

Can only get tyre deflection on the front without bending my wings!

 

edit: units in elephants

Edited by Henry 1.9GTi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×