Gear Linkage Question

[peakrevs 0]

Hello Everyone,

 

I have to say that I don't get on too well with the search facility but I'm probably not putting in the right keywords, so please bear with me.

 

With the engine at the back, the reverse detent cable is over 14 ft long and, particularly in the cold weather, the spring is not strong enough to allow the mechanism to return and when selecting first immediately after reversing it can be a surprise to find you are still in reverse when expecting to go forward! So a BE3 without the detent cable seems attractive.

 

Right then, here's the question. Are the actuating levers on the BE3 the same and in the same position as those on the BE1 and will the two rods from the gear lever/linkage fit straight on? A bit much to expect perhaps. The linkage on my car is fairly standard, albeit somewhat longer and turned through 180 degrees at the subframe. However any modification to my set-up here would be quite difficult at this stage.

 

So, I was hoping that a BE3 would fit without any problems.

 

Thank you for your help.

 

John

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Here's a thread with a few answers in. Look at Anthony's reply

[peakrevs 0]

Here's a thread with a few answers in. Look at Anthony's reply

 

Paul, I did see Anthony's answer but it really just concentrates on going the other way(BE3 to BE1) and ensuring the gear lever is changed for the lift up collar type. He hasn't mentioned any differences on the actuating lever configuration between the two boxes and this is the information I need because I cannot easily change my linkage.

 

John

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

I'm getting a bit confused here matey (or i'm just tired).

 

You want to know if the gear linkages fit BE1 and BE3 boxes? My answer is yes as there are no specific gearlinkages (2 behind engine) for the BE1 box.

 

Is there a L-shaped bracket attached to the subframe? This is present on a BE3 box setup so if your BE1 box has this they will fit.

[peakrevs 0]

I'm getting a bit confused here matey (or i'm just tired).

 

You want to know if the gear linkages fit BE1 and BE3 boxes? My answer is yes as there are no specific gearlinkages (2 behind engine) for the BE1 box.

 

Is there a L-shaped bracket attached to the subframe? This is present on a BE3 box setup so if your BE1 box has this they will fit.

 

Sorry for any cofusion. I'll take a picture of my set-up which will hopefully clarify my question. They say a picture is worth a thousand words; probably more in my case!!

[peakrevs 0]

Sorry for any cofusion. I'll take a picture of my set-up which will hopefully clarify my question. They say a picture is worth a thousand words; probably more in my case!!

 

I hope the attached picture will clarify my question which is, quite simply, are the levers fitted to the BE3 box in identical positions and the same length as those on the BE1.

 

 

John

[peakrevs 0]

I hope the attached picture will clarify my question which is, quite simply, are the levers fitted to the BE3 box in identical positions and the same length as those on the BE1.

 

 

John

 

I really thought somebody would be able to answer this especially as I'm sure the BE1 to BE3 swap has been done. Anyway i shall be able to answer my own question when I've collected my BE3 box later on this week.

[rescue dude 0]

Changing the linkage will stop the engine from smoking too.

[supersub14 1]

Changing the linkage will stop the engine from smoking too.

 

haha someones been wtaching too much tv

[peakrevs 0]

Changing the linkage will stop the engine from smoking too.

 

It's WIN WIN then

[24seven 104]

To add something useful, though I can't talk from experience of having done the swap from BE1 to BE3, from that photo the linkages there look identical to my memory of my own car which is a BE3 setup. I'd also recommend investing in a set of aftermarket gear rods with more securely locked ball joints as opposed to the standard items, particularly if they're worn.

[Anthony 1,003]

You don't need to change the linkages going from BE1 to BE3 - just disconnect from one box, and connect to the new box.

 

You only need to swap the selector arms over if the new gearbox didn't come from a 205/309.

 

Clutch pedal and cable will need swapping as they're different between BE1 and BE3, as is the clutch release bearing.

 

Hope that helps

[jimistdt 1]

The problem the O/P has is not being touched on here at the moment.

 

I believe Mr PeakRevs has a rear mounted engine, and fabricated linkages and clutch cable.

 

After selecting reverse on the gear box and re-selecting 1st, the gearbox is remaining in reverse gear due to lack of strength on the return action of the spring.

 

I do not know the solution but it is not a standard set up nor a standard solution.

 

 

Here's a video of Mr Peakrevs 205

Edited January 26, 2010 by jimistdt

[Anthony 1,003]

The problem the O/P has is not being touched on here at the moment.

The problem was described by the John and his solution was to fit a BE3 gearbox thus removing the lift-up mechanism completely, but wasn't sure whether linkages etc needed swapping - that has been answered above.

 

As for getting the BE1 gearbox working, one way of doing it would be to have some kind of solenoid wired in place of the cable so that the reverse lockout is electrically operated by a switch in the cabin or a button grafted onto the gearknob. Someone on here did something similar a while back using a diesel pump stop solenoid from memory and I'm sure a search would reveal the build thread.

[jimistdt 1]

No offence meant Anthony, it wasn't a dig at you.

 

Edited January 26, 2010 by jimistdt

[peakrevs 0]

No offence meant Anthony, it wasn't a dig at you.

 

 

Thank you all particularly jimistdt and Anthony for your considered replies. I have now gone ahead and got myself a BE3 box and from what you have said and from what I can see, it should fit without too much trouble. I shouldn't have said that should I? It also looks as if the clutch lever is a better design and there is no pin to lose when the cable snaps.

 

Anyone done a hydraulic clutch conversion? I certainly could not change my clutch cable at the roadside.

 

John

[Anthony 1,003]

It also looks as if the clutch lever is a better design and there is no pin to lose when the cable snaps.

 

Anyone done a hydraulic clutch conversion? I certainly could not change my clutch cable at the roadside.

Much better design clutch arm, resulting in a nicer clutch feel and usually a lighter pedal action too

 

As for hydraulic clutch, I'm not sure if anyone on here has done the conversion (I suspect not, as for most there's no need/benefit) but one possible option might be to see if you can fit/adapt the hydraulic clutch setup from a 307 with a BE4R gearbox - I've not actually seen one in detail so it might not be possible, but it seems like the most obvious place to start with it also being a BE series gearbox.

[peakrevs 0]

Much better design clutch arm, resulting in a nicer clutch feel and usually a lighter pedal action too

 

As for hydraulic clutch, I'm not sure if anyone on here has done the conversion (I suspect not, as for most there's no need/benefit) but one possible option might be to see if you can fit/adapt the hydraulic clutch setup from a 307 with a BE4R gearbox - I've not actually seen one in detail so it might not be possible, but it seems like the most obvious place to start with it also being a BE series gearbox.

 

Does the 307 have an electronic speedo?