Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
mogsman

Tools To Replace Front Struts?

Recommended Posts

mogsman

Hi all, what tools do I need to replace the front struts? I have a trolley jack, axle stands and am about to buy some spring compressors and a 16mm socket. Is there anyting else I need or any tips?

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
M@tt

depending on your struts you'll need an allen key and a swan necked ring spanner (22mm iirc) to get the nut off the top of the strut. Or if you have access to an impact/windy gun you can buzz it straight off/on instead

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mogsman

I'm not taking the struts apart, just replacing them from one unit complete to another.

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
M@tt

oh in that case you wont need spring compressors either then

 

you just need

- a socket set to undo the bolts

- a hammer to hit the hub off the bottom of the strut

- get yourself a 8mm square sump plug socket ,wedge it in the slit on the back of the hub and rotate it 45degrees to release the tension of the hub clamping onto the strut, it will make removing and more importatly refitting the hub a piece of p1ss.

- a bar of sorts is handy to help lever the antiroll bar when removing/refitting the droplink (this is assuming you've only jacked up one side of the car at a time as if both wheels are off ground it won't be a problem)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mogsman

Thanks M@tt, I might aswell get the spring compressors for future tinkering. Need to get some drop links as the ones on the car are knackered on the strut.

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
M@tt

with the drop links, depending on the brand, you may find again like the strut tops they have a allen key hole in the middle of them, clean any crap out of the hole and use an allen key to hold the threaded section in position whilst you use a spanner to undo the nut.

 

However be warned it wouldn't be uncommon to find no allen key hole and the nuts totally rusted on so a wire brush and some plusgas/wd40 left to soak on them before hand is a good move, but you may need to resort to an angle grinder if its really bad!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jimistdt

^Might also be worth mentioning on the links without the allen key hole, it is possible to use a 17mm (iirc) spanner on the flats against the back of the link.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

and that 17mm spanner flats can often be 16mm too :lol:

 

one thing worth doing before fitting the replacement dampers is to clean out the clamp on the hub with some emery paper or sandpaper, often with varying manufacturers of dampers the depth they sit in the clamp varies, this can leave a rusty ring in the bottom of the clamp and make installation of a new damper very difficult if they happen to sit a little deeper into the clamp.

 

also, replace any bolts you disturb like the clamp bolt and track rod end but, although you can re-use them it is advisable to change them and use a torque wrench when tightening them up.

 

Baz can supply some of them, if not any decent fasteners stockist can help, make sure they are High tensile, or just go to your local Peugeot or Citroen dealer (I and many others can help you with a part number if you need it)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mogsman

I will need new nuts and bolts, so part numbers would be great. I have a very useful Citroen dealer down here that can get me them. The bolt on the bottom of the strut in the hubs would definately need changing. I have one new drop link and another on order for this afternoon, so I'll leave the old ones on the struts coming off. I can then cut them off at a later date. I might even attempt the track rod ends this week.

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
M@tt

if you do the TRE's then get it tracked aftwards as doing the counting turns thing is never very accurate and it only takes the wheels to be out by 1mm or so for it to handle like a possessed shopping trolley

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mogsman

Tracking was next on my to do list. I just need the misty rain to ease off then I can carry on.

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mogsman

I've finished replacing the struts. I found the near side harder to do than the offside. I managed to shear one of the strut top mount bolts so I only have two left to hold it in place. I need to fit the new off side droplink thats on order and replace the two clamp bolts.

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simes
I've finished replacing the struts. I found the near side harder to do than the offside. I managed to shear one of the strut top mount bolts so I only have two left to hold it in place. I need to fit the new off side droplink thats on order and replace the two clamp bolts.

Ian

 

Not uncommon for those to shear, you can get away with using these as a fix, that is instead of buying a whole new top mount kit.

 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchB...t&R=0827439

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Another way to repair, is to drill through the bust stud 6.8mm, then tap to M8, and bolt from the top down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mogsman

I'll replace those another day. At the moment I have to adjust the near side arm as there is +30mm difference than the offside. On the nearside arm there is a slight gap from the beam. Do I need to hit the arm hard to sit against the beam or is there another way.

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×