Injector Cleaning

[24seven 104]

I'm having a few running issues on my car at the moment. spluttering, misfiring, kangarooing, hesitating when cruising, you name it. I've tried a few ignition parts, to no avail, but I'm thinking it may be duff/sticky injectors as no matter what I do I can't stop it from overfuelling. Any recommendations on where to send my injectors to get them serviced and cleaned? I'm at a point where I can manage without the car for a few days to get this done, so I may as well.

 

Also while I'm at it, where's a good place to get plug leads/ignition amp/coil (1.9 Mi16)? I think I've read on here that some new replacement amps can be just as useless as old worn out ones, and I'm finding it hard not to get ripped off on coils & plug leads. If anyone has any other suggestions what to try to sort my problems, I'd be very grateful .

[hcmini1989 16]

I'm having a few running issues on my car at the moment. spluttering, misfiring, kangarooing, hesitating when cruising, you name it. I've tried a few ignition parts, to no avail, but I'm thinking it may be duff/sticky injectors as no matter what I do I can't stop it from overfuelling. Any recommendations on where to send my injectors to get them serviced and cleaned? I'm at a point where I can manage without the car for a few days to get this done, so I may as well.

 

Also while I'm at it, where's a good place to get plug leads/ignition amp/coil (1.9 Mi16)? I think I've read on here that some new replacement amps can be just as useless as old worn out ones, and I'm finding it hard not to get ripped off on coils & plug leads. If anyone has any other suggestions what to try to sort my problems, I'd be very grateful .

 

i think mad proffesor on here does the injectors have a look in the for sale or group buys .cant remember wich one .

[24seven 104]

Cheers bud, will look through those sections now.

[happygoron 2]

Leads can be pretty cheap in halfords if you have a trade card. Other stuff probably GSF? Not sure though.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Linky

 

Mad Prof did my injectors, really happy with the service and a nice guy to boot!

 

Mad

[hengti 2]

somewhere with an ultrasonic bath; tuners will likely have them, and injection specialists/etc, although prices probably vary quite a bit

[hcmini1989 16]

Cheers bud, will look through those sections now.

ok what have you checked so far then .see if i can help .if its over fueling you tried the ecu temp sensor {make sure its the right one )as ecp sold me one and it made my mi use loads of fuel but never flooded .allso is your mi running a lamba

 

is there a topic on your car ?

[lagonda 42]

Also recommend Mad Professor. Turned out there wasn't much wrong with my injectors despite their age & mileage, but car certainly ran smoother & more responsive afterwards.

[24seven 104]

Thanks guys, I've spoken to MP and will be sending him my injectors next week .

 

hcmini1989 - I've replaced the ECU temp sensor with a new one that's definitely the right part, and though it's improvd the situation slightly it's not gone yet. I've tried 2 coils (one was causing an occasional misfire and a brief drop in the tachometer but not the engine itself so ditched it, the other doesn't do this but I'm no guarantee that it's not faulty otherwise), 2 ignition amps (again both old and very used, so could still be problematic), 2 AFM's (same story with these, one looked in much better shape than the other but neither had any real effect), The leads have less than 5k miles on them, but are a few years old so may be adding to the problem, the dizzy and rotor arm are both spanking new (thanks to the members here who helped me sort them) but haven't made any difference and were only replaced because of the others falling apart.

 

I've just paid for some near new leads, a coil and an amp from a member here hoping that they might help cure some of the problems. The only other things I can think of that might be causing problems are the crank angle sensor (can imagine the engine going a bit haywire while this is on the blink), throttle position switch (though the problems remain whatever position the throttle's in other than wide open) or the loom itself which is the one I had on my previous Mi lump before it died, but it ran smoothly with this. I don't think it's the ECU, but I've got another (albeit with a BBR chav chip in it).

 

Is there anything else I could be missing?

[hcmini1989 16]

do you run a lamba sensor

[kilauea 7]

I used these guys: http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/

After 100k they weren't bad really - 50, 51, 52, 52 and all 55 when returned.

[24seven 104]

Sorry, forgot to say no. It's the non lambda non knock sensor 2 row motronic ECU.

[hcmini1989 16]

Sorry, forgot to say no. It's the non lambda non knock sensor 2 row motronic ECU.

well i think youre on the right route with the injectors then. not really alot it could be you seem to have tried everything. what you need to try if its no better after getting your injectors done is getting a fuel pressure guage see what thats reading .and go for a drive with it fitted so you can see it and see if it drops when under load

[24seven 104]

well, I changed the coil, plug leads & amp today and nothing's changed, so looks like I'm building myself a new loom from scratch .

[24seven 104]

Sorry to keep pestering the general forum with this (could a mod please move to the service forum please). As above changing the ignition parts has only had a minimal effect, but now whatever the underlying problem is is getting worse. The car is almost constantly down on power a little (consistently whatever position the pedal is in), and gets noticeably worse as it gets up to temperature.

 

So far I've ruled out the following:

 

Idle control valve,

Plug leads & plugs,

Ignition amp,

coil,

Air flow meter

no air leaks in the intake system

 

 

Is there anything else I could try? I'm going to try a spare crank angle sensor & throttle position sensor/body I've got lying around (with no guarantee they're any good either). Any other suggestions would be very welcome, as It's beginning to drive me nuts!

[welshpug 1,657]

TDC sensor tend to fail or not, I doubt it'll be that, Throttle switch can be tested easily with a multimeter, sounds like it would be a good idea to test the switch at the ecu plug as well as on the switch itself.

[24seven 104]

Cheers bud. am I right in thinking I should get 5v between the inner and one of the outer pins when closed, 0v between them open and vice versa for the inner and other outer pin?

[hcmini1989 16]

fuel pressure reg .get a pair of mole gripes and a rag and rap the rag around the pipe so you dont damage it and clamp the return pipe off then try it see if its any better .i found the pump when noisy aswell when i did this

Edited January 13, 2010 by hcmini1989

[24seven 104]

I'll give that a try hc. I'm not sure it's fuel pressure related, as it's running rich at the moment ut the regulator is one thing that did run through my mind.

[hcmini1989 16]

I'll give that a try hc. I'm not sure it's fuel pressure related, as it's running rich at the moment ut the regulator is one thing that did run through my mind.

if its running rich make sure the vacuam pipe is ok on the bottom of the fpr . aswell then as if it has a split in it the pressure will be to high

Edited January 13, 2010 by hcmini1989

[24seven 104]

tested the TPS at the ECU plug and it's fine, plus the vacuum hose on the FPR is fine. I'm stumped as to what else it could be! It shouldn't be the loom as I had the previous engine running perfectly on this one, but I'm going to make a whole new loom at some point anyway. I tried my spare ECU on it too and it was no different.

[Anthony 1,003]

It shouldn't be the loom as I had the previous engine running perfectly on this one, but I'm going to make a whole new loom at some point anyway. I tried my spare ECU on it too and it was no different.

Working on a previous engine doesn't mean a huge amount sadly when talking about 20 year old wiring looms.

 

After all, between then and now, chances are that you've unplugged all the connectors, pulled the loom out from where it was routed, removed the engine, refitted the new engine, rerouted the loom, pulled the wiring and connectors back into the right place, and plugged everything back in. After that, it's very easy to have a broken wire or a connector where the pin has pushed through and isn't making good contact.

 

A good example is a friend of mine that swapped the engine in his 8v, and it wouldn't run properly afterwards - like you, it was overfuelling badly. After swapping out all the usual candidates like you have and scratching my head, I started on the loom and found that there was a broken wire on the wiring for the AFM. Repaired that, and it ran sweetly again.

 

Also, if you can swap out the FPR. They're normally very reliable, but I've had a faulty one before that caused it to miss and be down on power, and again, that caused me a bit of headscratching as it was well down my list of suspect parts that would normally give those symptoms. If you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge, they're very easy to test if you don't have access to another FPR to swap out.

 

Basically, assume nothing works, no matter whether it did previously or not.

[24seven 104]

Yeah I'm beginning to see it that way more and more. Think the next job on it i going to be the loom. if that doesn't sort it I'll burn the damm thing!

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Have you actually confirmed theres nothing wrong with the engine itself yet? Comp test, leak down, cam timing?

[24seven 104]

Compression is fine across the board though I've not tried a leakdown test yet. the cam timing should be spot on too - the power loss is a bit hit & miss, sometimes it's down on power sometimes it's not, it's almost like something's partially blocking the throttle one moment and isn't the next.