Stainless Steel 4 Branch Manifold

[swervygerdy 0]

Evening all.

 

I have a 4 branch manifold (mild steel) which is cracked badly just where the four pipes join into one. Having done a quick search on here - I believe this is a common problem. My mechanic tells me it'll be difficult to weld.

 

I've tried a few places for a replacement, magnex, ashley, janspeed but to no avail.Is there anywhere else I could get a new one? I'm hesitant to buy a 2nd one incase it's cracked too or does'nt stick the pace.

 

Trawling through e-bay i came accross a few stainless items for humble enough money - has any one any experience with these - quality, fitment etc?

 

 

I should mention the car is a rally car ( tarmac only) with a fairly well tuned 1600 longman engine so i'd like to replace the existing manifold with something equivalent or better.The rest of the system is a mild steel Gp N type so will it all mate together?

 

Links to ebay items

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-205-GTI-SPLI...=item1e57b82cfe

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stainless-Steel-Exha...=item2ea9ed9dec

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-205-GTI-STAI...=item25558766f8

[Saveit 0]

Whats your engine specs, and what sort of power is it making?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Just goto Maniflow, Not worth bothering with all those you have listed

[opticaltrigger 52]

Hi Swervygervy,

First thing to adress here realy is the cause of this cracking problem.Two things you mentioned caught me,one was that this problem hapens to others and two is that its a rally car.

It all leads me to think that the cracking is possibly being caused by relativley high frquency vibrations in the header collector area.It's a shame that you dont have any photos of the header and of the affected area,but if it's mild steel and is recoverable I would weld it up (cant be to hard with a mig and some patience) and look at making a small stay bracket from say a pice of 10mm tube flatened and drilled at the ends (or somthing simillar) and put the bracket between the collector end of the header and engine block.You might find that you need perhaps two brackets,but regardless,the brackets will go quite some way towards harmonising the differential in frequency between the collector end of the header and that of the motor it'self.It's not a garantee of success but it's very likley to give you quite alot of trouble free service for a long time if you give it a try,plus it wont realy cost you much to have a go.

 

Hope it helps anyway

All the best O.T.

[swervygerdy 0]

Spec as follows:

 

Engine/Transmission:

Longmans full spec 1600cc 8-valve, Lightened and balanced crankshaft, Lightened and balanced flywheel, Vernier pulley, Ported and polished head, stainless steel big valves, Omega forged pistons with Dellorto twin 45 carbs, Group A distributor, Domed ITG air filter, Facet red top fuel pump, Filter King fuel pressure regulator, Braided fuel pipe, Samco hose kit, Four branch heat wrapped manifold, Peugeot sport exhaust system, Uprated Gti-6 oil pump, Peugeot sport sump baffle, Alloy oil catch tank, 19 row oil cooler, Group N top engine mounts and solid lower mount.

BE3 gearbox with 4.8 final drive, Ceramic clutch, Mixed 1.6 and 1.9 gears with TranX Plate type LSD, Alloy rose jointed quick shift gear rods with billet alloy gear stick, 309 Gti drive shafts.

 

Running Gear:

Front P.T.S. coil over set up with adjustable platforms, 9” spring with tarmac insert, Rose jointed top mounts, 309 Gti bottom arms, X-sport uprated subframe with additional lateral support and seam welding. OMP strut brace, A B Motorsport Chassis strengthening kit, Solid mounted reconditioned rear beam with Bilstein rear dampers

106 Gti electric power steering.

Uprated Carbon Metallic Lorraine pads, Brembo front and rear discs.

Stud and Nut conversion.

 

Managed to get it welded up and back on the car - thanks for the replies - i'll definatly look into making up some sort of brackets to reduce the vibrations.First rally of the season on the 16th - fingers crossed everything stays bolted on!

[Batfink 201]

Just goto Maniflow, Not worth bothering with all those you have listed

 

true. I doubt any are designed for a race engine. One of those is probably a raceland in which case I sometimes sell them, but its I think a copy of the magnex one so is tuned for a standard car. Only ones i've sold i exported.

[Saveit 0]

What sort of power does it make?

[opticaltrigger 52]

I noticed that you said the header was thermal wraped.Perhaps the temprature is contributing to the cracking problem.Try removing the wraping and if your worried about heat near other components try some aluminium heat sheilds instead.

Now you've said that about the thermal wraping,If the wall thickness of the tube work is relativley thin and you wrap it up it will suffer premature cracking.This problem also ocurs with normaly asspirated headers that have been modified to carry a turbo because the heat is to great for the metal work to soak.

 

Best regards

O.T.

[swervygerdy 0]

Already have the maniflod re -wrapped and mounted - to be honest, the heat generated while sitting behind other cars qued up on the start line would worry me, i reckon i'll leave it on and maybe purchase a spare 4 branch. Though I looked into the maniflow site - £325 seems a tad steep - any one any experience - do they represent value for money?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

You get what you pay for. And if Miles recommends something it's usually pretty spot on.

 

I swear by Maniflow personally. Doesn't mean others are s*it, but it does mean they deliver the goods.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

ignore there webs tie give them a call, They have more than 1 manifold for the engine, The one listed from memory is just like the Magnex etc