Rebuilding An Xu10j2te

[pablo 0]

Never rebuilt an engine before but have acquired a spare XU10J2TE engine from an XM I was thinking of rebuilding it mainly for something to tinker at. Got the bottom end for £20 so if I cock it up Ill not be heartbroken.

 

So to start Im thinking of the following, please chip in!

 

- remove crank and pistons

- get crank inspected

- get new bearing shells

- get cylinders honed/bored as there is a bit of a lip at the top

- get deck skimmed to make sure its flat

- get block cleaned and paint it up

- get new piston rings to suit

- refit crank/pistons/shells etc with new seals

 

Is that about it? Im going to refresh the head too but the big work is in the bottom end. Im guessing the piston rings and shells need to be matched to the cylinders and crank if they are getting machined etc.

 

Thanks all, plan to take my time over it and see how it pans out.

[rescue dude 0]

Lightening and balancing is always a good way to go.

[pablo 0]

lol only had it a couple of hours and its already stripped. Crank and pistons are out. Not sure what Im looking at with the shells though Ill maybe fire up some pics and see what the story is.

 

Crank will go off to get checked and if ok then balanced etc. Then if thats all good the block can get bored/honed whatever it needs. Can still see honing marks on the cylinders so I guess its not too bad. Came out of an auto XM so proba had an easy enough life.

 

This is fun

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

If there's a lip at the top then betting is the block cannot be honed, Common Iron block problem, New over sized pistons is the only way out of this

[pablo 0]

I can feel the top 5mm or so of the cylinder a bit more raised than the rest. Is this just crap or a worn block?

[welshpug 1,657]

can't tell without measuring the bore

[Jamal 2]

I can feel the top 5mm or so of the cylinder a bit more raised than the rest. Is this just crap or a worn block?

 

Maybe it's just sh*t. Try to clean it with nitro thinner.

If you can see the honing marks it would be ok. Just see my project pics. On my engine just changed the rings. It had a little lip(maybe just mange) but removed.

 

Not smoking, running well.

[pablo 0]

Maybe it's just sh*t. Try to clean it with nitro thinner.

If you can see the honing marks it would be ok. Just see my project pics. On my engine just changed the rings. It had a little lip(maybe just mange) but removed.

 

Not smoking, running well.

 

will try that cheers Ill try to get a good picture but I can see the criss crossing of the honing marks.

[Jamal 2]

will try that cheers Ill try to get a good picture but I can see the criss crossing of the honing marks.

 

Try to shot it from 45 degree. Many times the lips ar just burned oil.

 

The important thing is the measurement of the cylinder. The engine shop said my engine is scuffed... I said fu*k it, I can clearly see the honing...

Just removed the lips and changed the rings. And they couldn't find any oversized pistons.

 

Here You can see the original honing

And here the surface after the lips removed

(booth pics are after rebuilt)

 

If you want I can measure the dry/wet cylinder pressures for you

[pablo 0]

cheers Jamal, No way of testing compression anyway so Ill clean it up and see what its like.

[Jamal 2]

cheers Jamal, No way of testing compression anyway so Ill clean it up and see what its like.

 

 

Just measuring my, to ensure that my engine is healthy with only new rings and removed lips and the original honing marks on it.

I'm interested in too, will do it

[pablo 0]

Just measuring my, to ensure that my engine is healthy with only new rings and removed lips and the original honing marks on it.

I'm interested in too, will do it

 

 

I'm getting 170psi on my current lump but I think that isn't great as it breathes quite heavily out the breather pipe. I can feel it against my hand when idling. Puff puff puff kinda thing.

[Jamal 2]

I'm getting 170psi on my current lump but I think that isn't great as it breathes quite heavily out the breather pipe. I can feel it against my hand when idling. Puff puff puff kinda thing.

 

Doing it on revving too, or just on idle?

Edited January 3, 2010 by Jamal

[pablo 0]

hmm good question, definately on idle not sure on when revved. I didnt get any oil out the pipes, just lots of vapour.

[jonnyturbo 3]

where you buying all the parts from?

[dcc 855]

taking into account your engine is a low compression turbo, isnt 170 psi about right for that setup? I was getting about 200 accross all 4 on my gti6, but on my healthy rebuilt g40 engine I was getting about 175-180psi.

 

If you are lucky I think you can pick up cheap 2.0 iron blocks from some 406's and citroens (which are tuned down a bit iirc)

 

personally wouldnt bother with a rebore unless you were going to go for the extra stroke on the crank and get a 2188cc build - or what ever it works out to be

[pablo 0]

where you buying all the parts from?

 

Mix of ECP and QEP mate.

 

taking into account your engine is a low compression turbo, isnt 170 psi about right for that setup? I was getting about 200 accross all 4 on my gti6, but on my healthy rebuilt g40 engine I was getting about 175-180psi.

 

If you are lucky I think you can pick up cheap 2.0 iron blocks from some 406's and citroens (which are tuned down a bit iirc)

 

personally wouldnt bother with a rebore unless you were going to go for the extra stroke on the crank and get a 2188cc build - or what ever it works out to be

 

lol far too rich for me! 170 might be fine but there is a definate lip in the cylinders and the walls are mirror shiny. No honng marks whatsoever.

[pablo 0]

Ok quick question re pistons. My current lump has dished pistons, the new one which will be rebuilt has flat ones. Is it worth the effort to use the dished ones? Obviously it will be easier to use what I have as I can build it all up before doing the swap but if it was really worth it Id consider pulling them out.

[dcc 855]

assuming the deck height is the same, and stroke etc... then you should use your dished pistons. the flat ones will give your compression ratio a massive boost, probably too much. although they might not sit flush or at the same height as your other pistons. find a measuring device, and compare where they sit at tdc!

[pablo 0]

easier said than done the new engine is stripped

 

I think using the dished ones is definately going to be the best bet, just much more inconvenient. How much better is the question.

[Jamal 2]

easier said than done the new engine is stripped

 

I think using the dished ones is definately going to be the best bet, just much more inconvenient. How much better is the question.

 

 

If the pistons are flat type, then they came off an RGY XM.

If I'm right, your another engine is an RGX one, with dished, and You want to use the things from the RGX.

 

I think It is easier to use the RGX parts then. Because I'm 100% that there are differences. RGY has less hp than RGX but RGY has the flat pistons.

[pablo 0]

that about right Jamal as my current lump is from a 406 SRI. The one I bought is from an XM.

 

Do they use the same crank do you know?

[welshpug 1,657]

I have a vauge memory of the Flat piston engine being a lower compression ratio because they don't come up to deck height, hence the 5 bhp less, otherwise identical in most respects.

 

Worth confirming IMO

Edited January 4, 2010 by welshpug

[pablo 0]

I was of the understanding the dished had lower compression and hence more hp (406). The dished seem to definately be the desirable ones.

 

From memory both fall short of deck height by about 7-8mm.

[Jamal 2]

From memory both fall short of deck height by about 7-8mm.

 

RGX comes up to the top, as can be seen on pic

Edited January 4, 2010 by Jamal