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steve74

Con Rod Damage.

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steve74

Hello Gti lovers,

Has above im thinking of taking my engine out of my 205 gti.

I put a post about the curse of santa naffing my engine up,con rod jobby.

Anyway i will keep this short and sweet i just need a step by step on doing this task.

I do have good tools but ive never took one of these engines out before.

Hopefully you lovers will help me out here.

Thanks in advance Steve. :ph34r:

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DrSarty

Step 1:

Get a Haynes manual. It's even downloadable.

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steve74
Step 1:

Get a Haynes manual. It's even downloadable.

Cool dude i will try that.

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steve@cornwall

Do you have use of a crane, or plan to drop it out from underneath?

 

Have a look at M@tt's very helpful signature here----

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showuser=3557

 

Downloadable manuals!

Edited by steve@cornwall

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steve74
Do you have use of a crane, or plan to drop it out from underneath?

 

Have a look at M@tt's very helpful signature here----

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showuser=3557

 

Downloadable manuals!

Thanks,

I do plan to take it out from the top.

Thankyou for the links.

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DrSarty

Just some more friendly advice. Everything about removing the engine is covered in the Haynes manual as advised and it is quite a simple process.

 

It's easier angling the engine (cambelt end high) to get it out if you remove the battery tray/offside engine mount. (4 bolts: 2 vertical and visible - 2 horizontal, inside it into the chassis leg). Or of course you could take the gearbox off first, although I would suggest not and removing the mount as advised.

 

Whilst the engine is out - and you haven't mentioned if you're doing any kind of restoration - I would seriously advise cleaning up/upgrading/replacing all earthing points. This would include the ignitional amplifier, main engine/chassis earth strap, relays, horn and headlamps. Lamps for example are a lot brighter when these earths are refreshed.

 

When you refit, BBM & Miles do some excellent replacement silicon hoses (blue, black & red IIRC) and whilst the engine is out I would clean out the SAD, AFM, vacuum hosing and oil filler neck.

 

It's also possible your performance/economy will improve if you give your distributor a good recondition or even replace it.

 

Post if you have any problems.

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steve74
Just some more friendly advice. Everything about removing the engine is covered in the Haynes manual as advised and it is quite a simple process.

 

It's easier angling the engine (cambelt end high) to get it out if you remove the battery tray/offside engine mount. (4 bolts: 2 vertical and visible - 2 horizontal, inside it into the chassis leg). Or of course you could take the gearbox off first, although I would suggest not and removing the mount as advised.

 

Whilst the engine is out - and you haven't mentioned if you're doing any kind of restoration - I would seriously advise cleaning up/upgrading/replacing all earthing points. This would include the ignitional amplifier, main engine/chassis earth strap, relays, horn and headlamps. Lamps for example are a lot brighter when these earths are refreshed.

 

When you refit, BBM & Miles do some excellent replacement silicon hoses (blue, black & red IIRC) and whilst the engine is out I would clean out the SAD, AFM, vacuum hosing and oil filler neck.

 

It's also possible your performance/economy will improve if you give your distributor a good recondition or even replace it.

 

Post if you have any problems.

Great advice,

How much are these hose kits from miles does anyone know?

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Anteas
Thanks cybernck,

They look great just what im after.

Its Christmas after all.

All i need now is a good replacement engine,lol. :angry:

 

can u not just replace the damaged con rod with enginge in situe thats what i did after going throough some flood water

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EdCherry
can u not just replace the damaged con rod with enginge in situe thats what i did after going throough some flood water

 

When its coming out the side of the engine block, not really.

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steve74
When its coming out the side of the engine block, not really.

I have now sourced a good lump with gearbox only 57,000 on the clock.

History to back it up too.

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DrSarty
I have now sourced a good lump with gearbox only 57,000 on the clock.

History to back it up too.

 

Nice find. You've never told us whether we're talking 1.6 or 1.9.

 

If it's 1.6 (and BE3) i.e. reverse below 5th, then what are your plans with the old gearbox? Could be interested.

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steve74
Nice find. You've never told us whether we're talking 1.6 or 1.9.

 

If it's 1.6 (and BE3) i.e. reverse below 5th, then what are your plans with the old gearbox? Could be interested.

Sorry its a 1.9 be3 type.

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mr_exe
I have now sourced a good lump with gearbox only 57,000 on the clock.

History to back it up too.

 

Well done, All the best with fitting it. Might be worth seeing if there is anyone bribe able locally to give you a hand

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steve74
Well done, All the best with fitting it. Might be worth seeing if there is anyone bribe able locally to give you a hand

That would be good if someone that knows what there doing could help me.

:blush:

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maxi

Haynes manual is wank, use as a VERY rough guideline.

 

1. Start off by slackening wheel bolts,jacking the car up, secure onto rails under car with axle stands, remove front wheels and continue doing all underneath work first, that way if you drop liquids you wont be lying in them.

 

Crack off the gearbox drainage plug and leave the gear oil draining into a tub. Undo and remove downpipe (2 long bolts with 10mm nuts, springs washers. remove speedo cable and pop off gearlinkages (bar might be required). Undo 2 11mm retaining nuts holding intermediate bearing of O/S driveshaft to rear engine mount. By this time the gear oil will have drained so refit plug and move container out from under car to a non kick overable place. Undo lower engine mount fork bolt and remove. Slide out from under car undoing bottom hose from rear of engine and rad en-route. Dont forget to catch coolant in suitable container to avoid too much spillage.

 

Next, wheel stud in each disc, screwdriver through caliper and into vented disc to lock in place. Crack both front hub nuts and remove. Undo and remove both pinch bolts, then take lower arm out of hub enabling shafts to be removed. Remove both shafts (they just pull out).

 

Next remove battery, disconnect coolant hoses, undo earth strap to gear box, undo and remove clutch cable from gearbox. If it is a BE1 box remove lift lever reverse cable. Unplug all wiring and set to one side out of harms way. Crack off fuel hoses and set out of harms way.Accelerator cable to be unclipped along with any left over piping such as airbox/induction pipes. Remove grill, slam panel and radiator(with fan shroud complete) Support engine on crane, undo engine mounts and persuade engine and gearbox out complete.

 

If anything is still hanging on undo as necessary, been a while so I might have missed something. Record is 42mins without air tools and the engine was still warm when it hit the deck.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Maxi

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DrSarty

That's nearly correct from Maxi. The only inaccurate bit was this...

 

gear oil will have drained so refit plug and move container out from under car to a non kick overable place.

 

This is actually impossible.

 

No matter where you put it, you, your mate or your Gran will find a way to stand in it or kick it over.

 

:blush:

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Galifrey
That's nearly correct from Maxi. The only inaccurate bit was this...

 

This is actually impossible.

 

No matter where you put it, you, your mate or your Gran will find a way to stand in it or kick it over.

 

Get a proper oil drainage container then :blink:

 

Seal after draining and take to household waste site for emptying.

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...tegoryId_165469

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Galifrey
Pieces of junk, my experiences are of them overflowing as they cant drain quick enough.

 

 

Maybe buy one with a hole bigger than the drain plug in your sump then?

 

:blink:

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