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chrisj21

Paint Preperation Materials And Steps

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chrisj21

I know this has been covered before a few times, i've done a quick search but didn't bring up much info.

 

I'm starting to prep my engine bay this week ready for paint. I have some small rust areas to attack, nothing serious just surface, a few small holes to tack up and then i want to get it nice and smooth for a really good finish.

 

So my plan of attack so far is,

 

* sand back with ?grit sand paper any surface rust to bare metal.

 

*Apply a skim of filler to the sanded/welded bare metal or primer then filler? If primer which primer, red oxide or zinc?

 

* Sand back all existing paint and remove old seam sealer.

 

* Again do i apply seam sealer then primer or the other wway around?

 

* once all the sanding and filling is done apply high build primer and then a guide coat to knock back to make it nice and smooth.

 

Main questions are which grades or sand paper to use, obviously start of course and then work down to fine but which grits?. And which primers and in which order?.

 

Is there any need to use a thin skim of filler if using high build or filler primer? i assume not.

 

Hopefully we can create a good thread here for any future reference.

 

Any comments suggestions appreciated.

 

Chris

Edited by chrisj21

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MerlinGTI

I would attack the rusty bits with 80 grit maybe 180 depending on how bad they are, hit the rest with 320 for the chipped and scratched bits and 500 to key everything else up. Prime over the 500.

 

Invest in some panel wipe if you havent got any, solvent based. Go mad with this after all the sanding is done. Theres all sorts oils and crap on engine bay paintwork that will ruin the new paint. Infact if possible I would give the bare bay a good coat of TFR and a meeting with the jetwash before I even started.

 

Treat all the rusty areas with a rust converter first. Halfruads do it.

 

I would de seam sealer, kill any rust, prime (rattle can red oxide), re seam sealer, hi build.

 

Dont expect miracles from rattle can filler primer, its not 2 pack kinda thickness.

 

Put some progress pics up when you do it :)

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dee205

Agreed. Use Bilt Hamber for rust treatment and prevention.

Wouldn't use filler though on the bare metal. Just red oxide primer or any high zinc content primer to stop further rusting. Then filler primer on top of that.

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chrisj21

That link is excellent Damir, thanks :rolleyes:

 

Thanks to the very useful reply MerlinGTI, i'll follow your steps closely, and thanks dee205 for the recomendation. looks as though they have some useful products.

 

Revised steps:

 

* I already have some good degreaser so i'll give the engine bay a good coat and a jet wash to remove any surface grease and dirt etc.

 

* Remove old seam sealer.

 

* Remove and treat any rust areas with kurust or similar as mentioned above.

 

* Weld up the two small screw holes on the inner wing and grined back.

 

* Sand down the entire bay to leave a surface for the primer to key too.

 

* Red oxide primer any bare surfaces and welded areas.

 

* Re-apply seam sealer in the appropriate places.

 

* High build primer then once dry sand back to give a good smooth surface.

 

* Panel wipe the entire bay making sure all surfaces are clean.

 

* And last but not least top coat.

 

I have access to a spray gun and compressor but i dont have an inline filter to stop any moisture coming out. Has any one who's sprayed before had any problems not using one? I've done some reading up on migwelding.co.uk ( i think thats where i saw it) and they had some tips for setting up compressors and recommended a filter.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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MerlinGTI

Sounds good dude, its all about keeping stuff clean really. Keep blowing dust out with the air line, panel wipe after any sanding and before any paint.

 

Your be fine without an inline filter when priming, just drain out the compressor before you start and any other chances you get. I wouldnt attempt a colour coat or laquer without one tho if a flawless finish is the aim.

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SurGie

Absolutely, the main thing with painting and body work is preparation.

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dee205

Looks like a good plan you have there. And as above, preparation and keep it clean. Also it helps to have a heated area to paint in. Keeps mositure out of the air which you don't want between layers, it aids curing of the paint which in turn minimises runs or sags in the paint. Been there a few times before. I would use thin layers too especially on colour and top coat. Again, dries quicker and less chance of runs etc.

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flyfisher
I know this has been covered before a few times, i've done a quick search but didn't bring up much info.

 

I'm starting to prep my engine bay this week ready for paint. I have some small rust areas to attack, nothing serious just surface, a few small holes to tack up and then i want to get it nice and smooth for a really good finish.

 

So my plan of attack so far is,

 

* sand back with ?grit sand paper any surface rust to bare metal.

 

*Apply a skim of filler to the sanded/welded bare metal or primer then filler? If primer which primer, red oxide or zinc?

 

* Sand back all existing paint and remove old seam sealer.

 

* Again do i apply seam sealer then primer or the other wway around?

 

* once all the sanding and filling is done apply high build primer and then a guide coat to knock back to make it nice and smooth.

 

Main questions are which grades or sand paper to use, obviously start of course and then work down to fine but which grits?. And which primers and in which order?.

 

Is there any need to use a thin skim of filler if using high build or filler primer? i assume not.

 

Hopefully we can create a good thread here for any future reference.

 

Any comments suggestions appreciated.

 

Chris

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flyfisher

first degrease engine bay

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flyfisher
first degrease engine bay

it will only look as good as the as the work you put in once rust is located you need to sand blast it with a spot blaster after this clean areas to rid of any blast sand de grease engine bay tack off then spay with anti rust primer when dry nib off and spay with a high build two pack primer let dry stain area flat back with 800 grit wet and dry paper then reseal any sealer removed when sealer is hard then colour with a good qaulity 2 pack paint job done will look great

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chrisj21

I've just ( 4 months later) got around to doing this and i've applied my top coat today.

 

Just a quick question, do i need to rub down the paint before applying the lacquer or apply the lacquer directly over the sorrento paint?

 

Thanks

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yeti-dj

next step is to lacquer the paint, no rubbing down is needed or you will be lacquering onto a very dull looking paint, i usual lacquer straight after the paint is tacky..

 

have fun

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chrisj21

Makes sense, thanks.

B)

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