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daveo

Rear Caliper Replacement

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daveo

hi all,

 

as the title says, i think my rear calipers are on there way out. they keep looking one up before the other and thats with not huge amount of brake pressure.

also i did this the other day

 

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm98/da...05/DSC00426.jpg

 

a guys who build 205 rally cars said something about 206 brakes or maybe rear beams fitting...

 

before i go changing things i will be checking out the brake compensators.

Edited by cybernck
Large image!

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swordfish210

Some GTI-6 rear calipers have a 32mm piston as opposed to the 30mm one on the 205 calipers so they might be a good upgrade. I remember Dan Jacobs fitted some bike 4-pots to the back of his 205 but i think he removed them because they worked too well.

 

Nice work on the disc btw :)

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daveo

best timing ever though, they wanted changing lol.

 

hmm i'll bear that in mind...

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swordfish210

If you put the center in a mill and take it down so it's nice and flat you'll have a perfect (allbeit very heavy) hubcentric wheel spacer :)

Edited by swordfish210

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Tom Fenton

206 calipers are the same as 205 ones as far as I can tell, as above just check the piston diameter. If its a gravel car the first thing I'd do is junk the standard compensators and get a proper bias valve or pedal box in there.

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daveo

anyone got any other ideas? i'd say that the brakes looking so early could be due to sticky compensators. i was also told that the disk braking like it did could be due to the caliper not relesing properly...

 

any other calipers that would fit?

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j_turnell

I really wouldnt worry about changing the calipers, standard rear calipers are perfectly adequate, as Tom suggests ditch the dodgy compensators and run a bias valve.

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welshpug

disc looks well past its best regardless, I'd bet that the slider pins are seized though.

 

has the car been sat for some time before you bought it?

 

the caliper is used by most of the French small hot hatches of the past 20 odd years with small differences in the piston size and the lever, so if you do change them be sure to do it in pairs unless you're just replacing for another 205/309 item.

 

as mentioned, for a rally or track car a bias valve is a good idea.

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daveo

yeah a bias valve was planned anyway so would have removed the compensators. and yes i think the car was sat for some time.

 

i would have changed in pairs anyway as i bet the other caliper isn't far off the same result.

 

i think i may ditch the compensators and see what the results are.

would copper grease be ok the grease the sliders?

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Anthony
would copper grease be ok the grease the sliders?

No! As a general rule, don't use copper grease for lubricating two moving parts, only to stop two static parts from siezing together.

 

Something like LM grease will be fine, but if the sliders have already siezed, they're likely to be in a pretty poor state already and probably won't move freely even when greased up. Prevention is better than cure.

 

Also, check that you've not got a slightly bent stub axle on the wheel that you broke the brake disk on - when that happens, you have the brake disk and caliper not running true to each other, which puts significant strain on the disk and is bound to screw the braking up on that wheel as the pads won't be running true either.

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daveo

the disk that broke is on the oppisite side to the wheel that loks up first though.

 

ot really sure what going on, i'll brake and the fronts work fine, if i brake a bit harder i can here at least one of the rear brakes lock up. but like i said the disk that broke is the other side to the wheel that locks up

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EdCherry

Id get both calipers off and rebuilt, check your stub axle like ant said and remove the rear compensator in favour of a bias valve/pedal box.

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welshpug
the disk that broke is on the oppisite side to the wheel that loks up first though.

 

ot really sure what going on, i'll brake and the fronts work fine, if i brake a bit harder i can here at least one of the rear brakes lock up. but like i said the disk that broke is the other side to the wheel that locks up

 

that makes sense, the side that broke most likely was only pressing on one pad due to a seized slider not both as the other side is.

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daveo

whats the chances of it being the stub axel of the brakes? as far as i'm aware the car is in pretty good condition but i doubt that make much difference.

 

how would i check the stub axel and how would i fix it? could i fix it?

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philfingers

Renault 5, clio, 106 gti, 306, are all the same so far as I know. plenty of choice although not many R5's have survived this far! Just as well really.. . . .

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daveo

i hope the 106's/306's are the same, but someone else told me that at least 306 one wont fit as there different, but if someone can clarify this that that would be a great help!!!

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welshpug

get the wheel alignment checked, any obvious excessive toe or camber would indicate a bent stub axle or worn out trailing arm bearings.

 

 

306 calipers WILL fit, but you will need to fit them as a pair as the pistons can be larger, not the section that sits against the pad though, that's 30mm on all of them, its the actual bore of the piston that differs, 30 or 32mm :lol:

Edited by welshpug

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daveo

my mechanic told me that he greased them up when he fitted the brakes for me, so we both said we'd just give a few months and see what happens.

he also said there were know signs of anything else being up other than the disks just be far to old.

cheers for the help

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