Liner Confusion

[decoc182 0]

Hi guys and gals. Ive been spending the last few weeks building up my xuj7p4 with GTI6 head etc. When I dismantled the xu7 engine originally, I took advice from this forum and the haynes (book of lies) and clamped down the liners after taking the head off, even though my crank hasnt spun since its been standing for a month "beheaded"

 

During this time, I have rebulit the GTI6 fully, with new valve guides, exhaust valves, steam seals, cam seals and to finish it off with a 3 angle valve cut and a slight skim to bring it up to 10.6 CR.

 

I started to fit the head last weekend, so I removed the clamps, only to find liner 2 and liner 3 were slightly loose. SH*T

 

I popped into my local peugeot dealer today to order a set of 4X liner seals. However upon speaking to the mechanic he stated that I MUST replace the rings, and rehone the liners afresh, and at the same time, should replace the rods bearings and main crank bearings. Now if thats the case, this is adding up to be an expensive mistake.

 

I am building this project on a budget, however do not want to cut corners, but do not want to make any uneccesary spends.

 

What would your opinion be? Can I just replace the liner seals, after pulling the liners out the top of the block, or should I drop the crank etc and re-build and replace?

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Not really an expert on this but it does sound likes he's trying to make money out of you.

 

It would be a good idea to do what he stated for peace of mind, but I don't know if it's essential.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

He is pulling your pisser.

 

The only thing I would do in this situation is leave the piston/rod in the liner and remove it all out of the top. Then replace seals and replace it all in the same place.

 

To be honest if you've got it that far in bits it does make sense to do the crank bearing shells. But if you do not disturb the position of the piston and rings in the liner you can get away without a hone and rings.

 

Having said all this, how loose were the liners? If they have hardly moved then you may even get away with doing nothing. But its a lot of work if you find the liner seals do leak.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Like Tom says, if you leave the piston/rod in the liner then all you strictly have to replace is the liner seal but it'd be worth cleaning the block / liner seat while its out imo at least & crank seals depending on age & mileage of the engine.

 

When you say "I dismantled the xu7 engine originally", what exactly have you dismantled?

 

Ifyou just removed the head leaving the sump etc in place then to even do just the liner seals you'll need a sump gasket but be sure to mark the rod caps before you remove them to make it obvious which way they fit because if you fit them even 180' out on the same rod they will nip the crank making it either hard to turn or lock it comletely.

 

If the engine is low mileage (under 50k) while you have the rods off / liners out measure the crank & see how much (if any) wear there is from new & if needed replace the rod shells using your own judgement on if the crank shells need doing as well.

 

Graham.

[decoc182 0]

Bit of an update from last post. I have gone to peugeot and bought a set of crank shells, big end shells, piston rings, Liner seals, crank seals and H/G set to build the xu7 gti6. Before I torque the parts up I wanted to check if you suggest that a crank regrind is a must on all rebuilds, or is it only for severe wear. My crank seemed quite even all over so didnt think a grind was necessary.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Measure it and check if its within tolerance, if its not it will need a grind. If there are some marking might be worth going for just a polish.