Ai606 Alarm Fitting, Central Locking

[hexhamstu 9]

So fitting the ai606 alarm to my car, I've read all the previous threads I could find which helped me get as far as I have. I've marked up all the wires, I think I've got everything, bar the central locking and door switches.

 

My car seems to have original pug central locking, not remote though. It has 4 wires going to the drivers door solenoid, which then locks/unlocks the 2 other doors. Which only have 2 wires.

I have bought a solenoid from maplins that only has 2 wires to it, the instructions baffle me at this point. How do I wire it up with this new solenoid?

 

From testing the new solenoid: if the current is running one way it locks and if its running the other way it unlocks?

Do I just connect all wires from one side of the solenoids together and then to the alarm some how?

 

My best guess is that this falls under the "additional motor locking" in the toad instructions, so that all the "unlock wires" go to one and the "lock wires" go to another.

BUT can I use the original locking sytem via the "universal motor driven locking" if so, how?

Anthony mentioned a relay next to or on the steering column on the phase 2 cars for the central locking, mine doesn't seem to have this. From what I can tell the wires disappear behind the ECU then go along to the fuse board (I think.).

 

Question 2 where does the loom from the boot come out, the central locking and the boot switch.

 

Oh and are the door switches positive or negative trigger. Haven't got as far as tracking all those wires down yet.

 

Cheers for any help!

Edited November 8, 2009 by hexhamstu

[hexhamstu 9]

If someone has a photo of the central locking relay could you please post it up so I know what I'm looking for!

[hexhamstu 9]

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?a...ost&id=5157

 

Is this it? (found in another topic)

[hexhamstu 9]

 

found this in another topic. Which am I looking for?!

[chrisj21 2]

Unfortunatly i cant help with the central locking but i'll be glad to see a result as i've never been able to get my maplins central locking working with the toad.

 

I spent a week fidling around and gave up in the end.

 

Good luck

 

Chris

[CosKev 16]

There is a thread on here,done by Anthony IIRC that tells you exactly which wires to use off the standard Pug central locking control unit.

I'm useless with the search facility on here,so upto you to find it!!!!

 

As for the Maplins central locking solenoids,you need a 5 wire solenoid for drivers door/control lock

The 2 wire is for passenger/boot lock only

 

I put a complete Maplins kit on my 309,solenoids/control unit/wiring,only thing I had to extend was the wiring to pass door solenoid

With the full kit you get 2 5 wire solenoids,so now my central locking can be used off drivers or pass doors

Complete kit only £24.99,and that comes with wires labelled up coming from control unit to connect straight to Toad

 

Central locking is negative pulse.

 

Door switches will be negative switch too

[hexhamstu 9]

I've read Anthonys post but I cant find the relay for the central locking, as he was refering to a phase 2 I wasn't sure if mine even has one next to the steering column?

I dont care what door it works off if I can press unlock on the key fob then I'm happy! The original pug stuff works fine as it is at the moment.

[GLPoomobile 958]

If you do get to a stage where you need/want an OE central locking control relay, I have one here (excuse the blatant plug)

[Weser 30]

Hi mate,

 

I might be able to help. I have had a similar problem when I put remote locking and a alarm onto my turbo diesel 5 door. (It was a moment of madness which took forever to complete!)

 

Anyway I had exactly the same locking system you have described. The drivers door has four wires and the others had two. This is because the drivers is also a sensor as well as a lock. I.e when you push the drivers lock pin down it sends a signal to all the other solenoids to lock.

 

The four wires I beleived were +12v and 0v for power and then the others for signal + and - sending out 12V to the other solenoids.

The thing is in my case the drivers door was not a solenoid itself. I could not power it up and lock the door. The central locking system is basic as it is not remote locking it has no control unit of relay....

Therefore using the negative switching output from the alarm WILL NOT WORK. You will be able to get the other 2 doors working by using positive switching from the alarm onto the signal wires of the drivers door solenoid (green and Yellow i think) but the drivers wont work.

 

Anyway your best bet is to do what I did. Buy a remote locking kit from ebay. Mine was eagle. it comes with a master solenoid which is a sensor and a lock. It has 4 wires +12 0V and the signals to do the other solenoids. the kit also comes with a control unit. This has an input from the alarm on negative switching.

 

I replaced the drivers door motor with the master from the remote locking kit. Used the original wiring in the car to control the other solenoids. I had to change the other solenoids (except the boot) because there was not enough power supplied for the old original locking motors to lock. You will probably get away with keeping the passenger side the original unit. I used the control unit from the kit to control it all and added the inputs from the alarm. So when I use the alarm remote the car locks. I also have remote fobs just for the locking as well as the remote central locking works alone with out the alarm. I just dont use them.

 

Anyway its still working fine.

 

Hope it helps, I know its pretty complicated and long winded!

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

For the boot switch connect to the boot light.

[dino20vt 3]

I've just dismantled a car that had a Toad alarm. The way the central locking on the phase 1.5 car without remote central locking appeared to work wAs:

Originally the drivers lock barrel and interior locking pin operates just a switch that tells the passenger door and tailgate to lock and unlock. Next fit a solenoid to the drivers door and attach it to the rod for the door pin. This way the toad controls the drivers door and the factory switch tells the others to follow.

[hexhamstu 9]

I've just dismantled a car that had a Toad alarm. The way the central locking on the phase 1.5 car without remote central locking appeared to work wAs:

Originally the drivers lock barrel and interior locking pin operates just a switch that tells the passenger door and tailgate to lock and unlock. Next fit a solenoid to the drivers door and attach it to the rod for the door pin. This way the toad controls the drivers door and the factory switch tells the others to follow.

I did think this de-pinning the door so that the new actuator just pushes down or up the old door switch, but it does seem a bit pykeyish though, but if it works it works. Was the Actuator used a 2 wire one? I guess then its just 1 negative switching circuit so is fairly easy to wire up. But then I would have to run new wires into the drivers door which is a slight pain in the arse.

[dino20vt 3]

I did think this de-pinning the door so that the new actuator just pushes down or up the old door switch, but it does seem a bit pykeyish though, but if it works it works. Was the Actuator used a 2 wire one? I guess then its just 1 negative switching circuit so is fairly easy to wire up. But then I would have to run new wires into the drivers door which is a slight pain in the arse.

 

you don't need to de pin it, everything stays factory, you just attach the new motor to the door pin but inside the door, above where it goes to to the swich/box thing. Pretty sure it was a 4 wire actuator but only two were used.

[hexhamstu 9]

you don't need to de pin it, everything stays factory, you just attach the new motor to the door pin but inside the door, above where it goes to to the swich/box thing. Pretty sure it was a 4 wire actuator but only two were used.

 

Yeah I just wanted to de-pin it, give "them" less of a reason to bend the door back, if there is no pin to pull up theres not much point in bending the door. Just leave the boot lock functional for emergencies.