[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Probably would, but Im not one for getting under the car and painting it over and over again because I hated doing it once!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Can anyone help me with some Carbon Fibre advice?

 

I'm well experienced in Fibre Glass but am very new to Carbon Fibre and as I will be remaking my diffuser in CF I need to get to grips with it.

 

First off I need to know which type of cloth to use which will be rigid enough to hold the diffuser shape having some large surface areas and still remain lightweight.

 

I have seen options consisting of 2/2 Twill and Plain Weave and Carbon/Kevlar mix and just plain Carbon also they are listed with "gsm" figures. Now does this relate to the weight meaning thickness of the sheet or does is stand for the actual weight so "Grams per Square Meter" or similar??

 

Many thanks

[Cameron 16]

gsm is grammes per square metre when dry (i.e. in cloth form, before you lay it up) I think.

 

I would use 2x2 twill weave, that's the boggo carbon cloth and probably the easiest to work with in my (limited) experience.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thanks Cameron, do you know how easily the 2x2 twill weave goes around 90deg angles without air bubbles?? I know from experience with fibreglass this is ny-on impossible

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Funnily enough I've worked on making a diffuser out of carbon for a sportscar. 6kgs all in and very stiff from a single lay, double on mounting points and with foam sections. 2x2 will do, will drape easily over 90 degree corners.

[Cameron 16]

Depends how sharp they are, but it's normally ok.. the big problem with it is tight compound curves.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Funnily enough I've worked on making a diffuser out of carbon for a sportscar. 6kgs all in and very stiff from a single lay, double on mounting points and with foam sections. 2x2 will do, will drape easily over 90 degree corners.

 

Foam sections....... How and where?? I'm intrigued...!

 

Maybe I'll just the edge off the 90deg corners to help out a little bit. My plan is to remove my diffuser and make a life size replica put of smooth gloss covered like wood, ive seen big sheets of it in B&Q, is ply or mdf but has a White shiney layer added which will stop the resin soaking into the wood. So once the replica is made I'll lay the CF over the top and leave to cure then I have a perfect diffuser (hopefully )

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Just had the Condor Booking Confirmation, am all set for a Rolling Road day with Sandy to get the final map sorted and maybe squeeze some more ponies out of the machine!!

 

Since the 225bhp / 203ftlb Dyno results i have:

 

> changed to a 4:2:1 Maniflow manifold with 41mm primaries from the Magnex 4:1 with 36mm primaries

 

> fitting the new clutch/flywheel which is 1.3kgs lighter than the old set up

 

> fitted new gear ratios including the move from 4.4 to 4.06 FD and the 1900 1st gear from the 1600 (wont change power but will change mph per gear)

 

> fitting back the std size brake discs from 283mm to 247mm saving 5.5kgs

 

So even though really only the exhaust mani change will affect the power output when i put this down on the tarmac the reduced inertia weight of 6.8kgs will have a big effect on the pick up id say and will probably counter act the new FD slowing pick up slightly from the longer ratios.

 

Very excited to feel the full potential of this engine

Edited October 12, 2011 by wardy18

[Dj_mini 7]

Make sure you get sandy his bacon roll from the shop you get a better map that way im sure of it

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Really hahaha thanks for the advice, i need to find a cafe for a fry up to set my nervous twitching stomach up for the pounding the engine's gonna get on the RR

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

New TTV Flywheel is now fited along with the 184mm AP Racing Twin Plate Clutch

 

Re-built Gripper Diff is on its way back from Gripper at a great price of only £129 for a rebuild and new Cross Pins after they quoted me almost £300 to start with, a little random but worked for me!! Hopefully it arrives satde so i can get it all in and get it running this weekend.

 

Very anxious to try out the new clutch/flywheel and gear ratios

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

My bad luck seems to never end, one thing after the other.

 

When fitting the new twin plate clutch i was warned about the inner drive plate splines fouling on the crank end due to running the twin plates flush side back to back and so the protruding splines on the inner plate were facing the end of the crank, well i check this and had plenty of clearence so happy days got it all fitted back and fired up for the first time last nite.

 

All i was greeted with was a very loud screech when clutch disengaged and the car struggled to even start as if something was binding plus i had no gears at all.

 

So gearbox back off last nite, got the procedure down to a T now.

 

It appears it was totally the opposite end of the clutch that was fouling which i found strange i was never warned about. The shaft which the release bearing slides back forwards over has fouled on the protruding splines of the outer drive plate, when i lifted the box up it didnt slide straight on but i thought it was just stuck on the 2 dowels so put the gearbox bolts in and pulled the box in with them at which point i would have been bending this drive plate inwards towards the back of the inner plate. (see pics)

 

Now i have thoroughly check the drive plate and it has bent inwards perfectly symetrically and so wont wobble when in place, it has bent inwards says 3mm and in so doing pulled the 3 pads inwards by about 0.5mm each but they still lie percectly flat on the diaphram plate because as it was being bent the pads were clamped by the clutch housing. so all i need to to do is shave down the release bearing shaft a little and shave down teh protruding splines on the outer plate and refit but i am going to confirm this is safe to refit first as i dont want it to crap out at all on me.

[Cameron 16]

I know it's probably not what you want to hear but if it were me I would replace that drive plate. Considering the stresses evethything is under at high engine rpm I wouldn't feel comfortable having what is effectively a weakened clutch plate, the £120-ish that it'll cost you to replace is surely better than the thing s*itting itself all over your nice clutch cover, flywheel, and the inside of the bellhousing!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thats not what i want to hear when i am booked in with Sandy for RR session next friday, so i wouldnt get a new plate until Tuesday now (if they have one at all) and would have 2 nights to fit it all back and hope it all works.

 

i loosing interest in this car at a rapid rate, it has been a constant battle!!

[welshpug 1,662]

can you get it in a press to straighten it back out?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I fear that pressing it flat again will just start to buckle it and would distort the pads, dont know how i would hold the pads down flat while pressing the centre back down

[welshpug 1,662]

only solution is to get another and make sure it fits, or re-fit the original clutch?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Original clutch would mean fitting back the original flywheel and i just dont want to RR it on a crappy clutch that cant hack the torque.

 

I will see how quickly Questmead can get me a new plate if they have one.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Just phoned AP Technical and explained what's happened and they said as long as ALL the paddles still lie perfectly flat on a flat surface then there's no problem, the only issue would be if a paddle has lifted and so doesn't lie flat so the "run off" would be out between the 3 paddles.

 

As the paddle was pressurised between the pressure plates the paddles still lie perfectly flat so it will be fine to keep using.

 

Also AP do not currently have one made so getting one to me would be impossible to be fitted into for the RR, but i said for Questmead to order one and keep it in stock and call to buy it as a spare and change it before the season starts next year.

[Cameron 16]

I would also check very carefully for damage to the pad material or signs that it's lifted off the plate whe it's been bent. For the potential damage it could cause it's just not worth the risk in my opinion!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yes i will be checking these pads very carefully, like i said this plate will just get through the RR and then will be changed for the 2012 season, ive got the procedure down to a fine art on my own now and can have the box out change clutch and back in within a day now, its just a pain because not only do i have to drain the gearbox oil i have to drain the engine oil because the feed pipe from the oil tank runs under the gearbox to stop any air pockets occuring in the pipelines

[Cameron 16]

Doh!

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

I dont know why your worried about air pockets in the oil lines its not exactly like a water system as it can breath.

 

Just fill the thing and crank it over until you've got good oil pressure and fire her up, wont be any problems. Id also get some caps for the pipes you've got to remove, you will soon get quick enough to undo the pipe and get a cap on without spilling much oil specially when its hot.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I have red plastic caps for the male ends fixed from the sump pan but it's the female socket less moquip fitting that unscrews from the sump pan and is the feed pipe from the tank so no way of blocking that one!

 

Oh and with regards to the air pockets I was only going by the advice giving from Mass Racing and seeing as they were the guys who orginally developed these Dry Sump kits then sold the patent to PACE I thought I best take it on board.

[Liquid_106 97 1 Cars]

How about something like:

 

Dry Break Connector

 

 

If you're disconnecting the hoses on a semi-regular basis, would save the hassle of catching / wasting oil and having to refill / replace it etc?