[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[Cameron 16]

To be honest.. I don't know.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

If I don't already have a set of Bendix calipers I have a mate who I can have some off for not alot at all so worth a try!!

[Cameron 16]

Yep! If it doesn't work then you haven't lost much.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Unless he can't slow down fast enough and puts the car into a granite wall...

[Cameron 16]

Well, I think he's got enough sense to test the brakes and see how well they perform before doing any last minute hero braking..

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I cant say the brakes work particularly well anyway to be honest, i think because i ran such big discs and they never got used really and would always be cold. I need to get a new master cylnder anyway and i have a 21.something so ill drop to a 19mm to help out the situation a little.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

New 184mm TTV Billet Steel Flywheel now fitted

 

Just waiting for my high tensile bolts to arrive then i can put the clutch on, testing for clearance last night due to running the twin plate and so the protruding splines on one of the plates will be facing the crank and may foul as the rigid drive plates need to run back to back with the flush faces facing each other, luckily i don't need to get the protruding splines turned down as everything clears with ease.

 

Just waiting for the diff to return then all can go back together ready for the RR session with Sandy hopefully at the end of the month.

[Cameron 16]

I cant say the brakes work particularly well anyway to be honest, i think because i ran such big discs and they never got used really and would always be cold. I need to get a new master cylnder anyway and i have a 21.something so ill drop to a 19mm to help out the situation a little.

 

Yeah you need to get heat into them as quickly as possible, so you need the disc mass to be low.. fitting smaller discs will help with that but you might find that the reduced diameter offsets the benefits of getting them up to temp, so you could end up back where you started!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh jsut what i was thinking, oh well i dont use them much in the hillclimbs, i have the power on so deep into the corner that any sort of a touch on the brakes is just going to make the car swap ends on me and spit me into a granite wall!!

[tri_longer 25]

A few years ago when I used to share a sprint car, we experimented with running the brakes of a 1.1 Saxo, whiich I believe were the same/similar as the Bendix calipers and small discs.

 

The braking effort required was considerable with the right foot, but we did have crap halfords pads in at the time, it certainly livened up the runs thats for sure.

 

At the end of the day we are looking to scrub speed not come to a complete halt, so the best pads you can get that work from cold are a must, i've switched to Frodo DS2500 and i'm pretty happy with these so far, although I am using GTi6 setup in a car weighing less that yours, but the braking effort from cold is good.

 

I'm looking at further weight saving ideas so following this with interest, also quite tempted with the bell & rotor route using either lotus 2 pots or maybe a 4 pot from compbrake et al.

 

I bought a set of 6 pot Tarox of a guy from Denmark off here, but have never got to fit them as they don't seem to drop straight on for some reason, the calipers foul the hubs where they bolt on, and the spacers don't line them up correctly either. The main issue I have though is the bells are too thick so I only have 2mm of hub spigot showing which means that my spacers won't locate, so have scrapped these for now whilst I look at other options (might be a for sale thread appear some time soon).

[Cameron 16]

DS2500 / 3000 are supposed to have a completely flat friction curve, but this doesn't really translate to real life.. while they're very good at low temps, they do get even better once the discs get hot.

 

Mintex 1144 were very good at low temps, maybe they'd be a good bet?

[welshpug 1,662]

I've driven a friends car with RC6's, didnt notice much difference to road pads when cold, they just got even better as they warmed up!

 

RC5's may be a better bet though for hillclimbing.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

i like the sound of mintex, cheap and cheerful

[Cameron 16]

What pads are you running currently?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Greenstuff pads at the moment, not the best at all

[Cameron 16]

EBC pads are f***ing s*ite! That could be part of your problem.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ill just go for a set of those Mintex 1144 pads

 

Need to give the 247mm discs a grit blast and then get them skimmed first as they've been stored in a draw for quite sometime and have a brown/crispy surface to them

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Still on the weight saving thinking (whilst acting like I'm watchin xfactor with the wife) going to remove my overly large 50mm thick alloy cosworth rad and fit something smaller like the std rad.

 

This rad was bought due to predicting higher temps with the 2.3ltr and a 12.5:1 cr ratio but this isn't the case at all, quite the opposite actually, it's a very cool running engine.

 

I would also like to loose 1 of my 2 8" cooling fans however I will retain both until I test the cooling capability of whatever rad I go for.

 

Anyway I have been reading about these Nissens alloy rads? Anyone got any experience of using these in a 205??

 

They have a built in header tank so more weight saving to be had by loosing the 205 header tank but unsure how the routing of the water hoses would work?

 

Thanks

 

Simon

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Reading further these Nissens rads with the built in header are more for the 106 so not sure of the cooling capabilities for a 205!!

 

I've read my cosworth rad is 10kg plus the extra water capacity and the std rad is 4.2kg so even with a std rad in with the 2 cooling fans I'm looking at a weight saving of ~6.5kgs which is great

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Carbon sheet would look damn nice in there though i agree!!

 

Well I finished the scuttle and indeed it does look nice!

 

 

Since you do such short runs Id be ditching a lot of things. Like you say your rad, those small cooling fans you had in your ex tunnel don't see the point. Im running a turbo hayabusa for much longer periods at 1200*C without any issues against fibreglass and metal.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh those fans are definitely going as I will never close in the exhaust tunnel now.

 

Scuttle looks great btw, noticing it doesn't look like you run any sort of windscreen wiper/motor? I'm very tempted to remove mine too, I don't fit the wiper to the motor unless it's raining but to be honest I wouldn't risk a run up the hillclimb or down the sprint if it was raining enough to need a wiper, just no need to risk a crash for not alot!!

Edited October 8, 2011 by wardy18

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

I will run a wiper, just haven't cut the hole yet, or for the T pulls Will probably end up doing a similar thing, wont run the wiper unless its going to need it on the day.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I really want to get a small grit blaster of some kind to remove all the under coat layering the underside of the car and inner wheel arches then just etch prime and spray it thinly giving it a touch up now and then to ensure no bare metal showing!! Reckon there's gotta be a couple kgs there!!

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Probably, theres probably 8 or so kilos on mine now with the amount of underseal on there... Just wanted mine to stay rust free rather than tempt fate.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Surely it would stay rust free if you etch prime it first and ensure any chips are regularly touched in.

 

Think I'm getting to the end of my weight saving capabilities without spending mega bucks on light weight dry sump fittings etc