[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[Cameron 16]

I'd be very concerned about fitting it that low in the car to be honest, you don't have much height above the oil pump there.

 

As for extending the tank with wings, it's a nice idea but it kinda defeats the object of the dry sump as the wider the tank is the more likely the oil is to surge away from the tank pickup hole. Same goes for tilting it.

 

Can you open up the heater intake hole and stuff the top of the tank through it? That might gain you a few precious inches of gravity for the oil! Any ideas what you're gonna make the enclosure out of? My vote is for some thin aluminium sheet.

Edited June 9, 2011 by Cameron

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Im not sure how gravity is an issue? please explain your thinking my friend?? Tha pump will always suck pure oil from the tank so no risk of airlocks once the pump is primed after fitting (on that note a couple of tips from Mass Racing is that the feed hose should be run under the engine from the back and to prime the pump before initial start up you should dis-connect the pulley and spin the pump over with a drill first to get the oil flowing and remove any air locks in the feed hose)

 

Yeh further thinking i think its best to get the tank up through the hole once enlarged, this way i can cut a hole in the GRP scuttle panel for easy access to the filler neck on the tank.

 

Definitely thin gauge ally for the enclosure and some M6 rivnuts to hold it all in place.

 

One concern i do have is that the tank seems to just come with a base plate attached for fitment to the car but with that amount of weight in the tank with 7 litres and being quite tall i would want the top of the tank to be secured somehow too, will need to secure the top end of the tank up through the enlarged hole under the scuttle panel.

Edited June 9, 2011 by wardy18

[rallyeash 155]

off topic but your fuel lines that run internal, ive got braided lines from the swirl pot which is in the rear footwell along the footwell and up through the bulkhead similar to yours. i have a constant wiff of fuel inside and just wondered if you get the same issue?

 

im thinking if i can't get it sorted to run the swirl pot under the boot floor and copper lines under the floor.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

You can run the tank on a tilt, just have to be careful about hose intake/outlet positioning.

 

You do need to prime the pump before first using it, like MASS suggested will do. Im also a big believer in gaining oil pressure before ever starting an engine I am working on. If its been standing for a while without being started, I like to whip the plugs out and spin them over too.

 

Easy way of boxing in the tank would be to buy some ally tube slightly larger than the tank, cut it in half so you've got your curve. 2 sheets welded to the half moon and trimmed to fit the bulkhead, job jobbed. You need to be careful about leaving the top of the oil tank exposed, pretty sure you have to make a cover for the top if your going to poke it through the scuttle.

 

 

Ash - the reason you had a smell of fuel inside the car is due to the lines breathing, you need PTFE lined braided hoses as these do not breathe.

[rallyeash 155]

yeah i thought it was somthing along those lines.

i picked it all up second hand from another 205 and he had them inside the car aswell but didnt mention was an issue..

[Cameron 16]

Well my thinking is that if the oil level in the tank gets low for any reason then you don't have much of a head of oil above the pump intake, you're just gonna be relying on suction from the pump. But hey, I'm by no means an expert here, I'm just thinking of things that could go wrong! Ed's idea for boxing in is pretty good, would be easier to just roll (or bend over something cylindrical) some ally sheet though, rather than have to weld sheet to the semi-circular part.

Edited June 9, 2011 by Cameron

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

You can run the tank on a tilt, just have to be careful about hose intake/outlet positioning.

 

You do need to prime the pump before first using it, like MASS suggested will do. Im also a big believer in gaining oil pressure before ever starting an engine I am working on. If its been standing for a while without being started, I like to whip the plugs out and spin them over too.

 

Easy way of boxing in the tank would be to buy some ally tube slightly larger than the tank, cut it in half so you've got your curve. 2 sheets welded to the half moon and trimmed to fit the bulkhead, job jobbed. You need to be careful about leaving the top of the oil tank exposed, pretty sure you have to make a cover for the top if your going to poke it through the scuttle.

 

 

Ash - the reason you had a smell of fuel inside the car is due to the lines breathing, you need PTFE lined braided hoses as these do not breathe.

 

I think an easier way of making the enclosure is to simply buy a sheet of ally cut it to the height required and then bend it over the tank itself to get the tanks shape then using a cardboard template cut to shape of the bulkhead either side of the tank just trim each side of the now bent ally sheet. Then add a bottom to the enclosure and the top of the enclosure will attach to the body around the enlarged hole made. Just need to keep in mind easy removal for emptying and cleaning the tank plus routing the hoses through the bulkhead. The hole cut in the scuttle panel to gain access to the top of the tank will be covered over when not needed so the tank head wont be permanantly exposed.

 

Im now happy with this plan, just need to add some length to my order list of hose.

 

Has anyone ever used the Aeroquip AQP Socketless push on hose and Moquip Socketless fittings?? The Aeroquip female hose fittings are just so damn expensive

Edited June 9, 2011 by wardy18

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Ive used some on engine pre heater's. Pretty good, but the ones I use are a bit bulky and expensive.

 

Id be careful and check with your scruitineer how he wants the hoses through the bulkhead, some can be pretty picky and you dont want to be turned away cause you've just gromitted the oil lines!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

The fuel lines are gromitted through the bulkhead and they are happy with that so i should be fine, im sure a jubilee could be used with these socketless hoses as an extra fail safe!!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ooh dry sump kit, tank and remote filter housing all arrived today, very tidy workmanship!!

 

AND placing the tank in the engine bay it looks like it MIGHT just fit with a few modifications including cutting off a useless part of gearbox casing which sticks out and repositioning the long gear selector linkage lower on the selector arms and then shortening the selector arms plus removing the coolant header tank bracket which is spot welded to that body. With all this is SHOULD just fit under my strut brace and then I'll need to raise the bonnet up maybe another half inch.

 

One other thing which I need to sort is to fit my oil temp sensor at 3/8 BSP somewhere, in the pics sent by PACE they have drilled and tapped the remote filter housing for this but they said these days they leave this down to the customer to sort but this is something I and no one on the island has the know how or capabilities of doing, any ideas people???! Plus I don't see how the probe would even fit into remote filter housing without the end of the temp probe fouling on the thread insert for the filter!!

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

ANSWER ME THIS:

 

Why sell Auxillary Oil Temp Gauges with 3/8BSP sensors on the end when you cant get hold from ANYWHERE a 3/8BSP Ally Weldable Boss to be able to actually attach the sensor to something oily!!!!

 

CLOWNS!!

[Dj_mini 7]

Why not just put a t where your pressure gauge is?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Because that would cause a T on a T

 

The XUD9Y block only has one thread oil way hole above the filter unlike the 2 on the ally blocks, this means i already have a T Adapter coming out of the block with the 25psi Pressure Switch for the warning light and the Pressure Braided Hose for the Pressure Guage attached.

[welshpug 1,662]

there's an oilway on the rear of the diesel blocks, its where the oil feed for the turbo goes

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yes Mass did mention this however they said it was rather close to the driveshafts, cant think of the hole myself at the moment so ill have to wait until the engine comes back to have a look.

 

I know Mass has plugged all the excess holes so i assume this would be unusable now due to threads beings removed for the plug?!?

[welshpug 1,662]

would imagine they just screwed something in the hole, so the threads would still be there?

[petert 590]

The bonus of having more oil is that it helps cool the engine. Less oil, hot oil, hot engine, spun bearing.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Had a massive breakthrough today, my suspicions were correct, the tank DOES fit in the engine bay JUST!!!

 

Process was:

 

1) Buy a M8 13mm threaded ball joint (ebay 1.96 for 2)

2) Drill new hole in the gearbox selector arm and bolt in new ball joint

3) Cut the selector arm down to shorten (as seen in pics below)

4) Re-adjust linkages to centre gear stick

NOTE: I now have an extremely short shift which i think it great, ie about 1-2" forward or back into a gear

5) Cut down the gearbox as shown circled in red below to clear bottom of tank

6) Drill out the 6 spot welds holding the header tank bracket to the bulkhead

7) Make new ally bracket and fix to bulkhead and attach oil catch tank and header tank bracket to.

 

Job Done you have just created enough clearence, now dont take my word for it if you are still using a standard bonnet on std hinges as the breather pipes from the top of the tank may foul, my bonnet is raised slightly anyway to allow heat to escape plus due to heightened suspension top mounts from mounting the suspension form the top down instead of underneath.

 

My only issue now is actually mounting the oil tank to the bulkhead, i cant believe it comes with no base plate or anything at all, so i need to make a bracket which the tank can sit on and then make some ally straps which wrap around the tank and fix to the bulkhead with some rubber washers to reduce vibration.

 

Hoses will be run as follows:

 

Feed from tank will drop out at 90deg down behind then under the gearbox and straight to the pump

Return to tank will either do the same route but im unsure if the pump will be able to push all the oil vertical so i might try to avoid a vertical straight in the return hose and bring it up the front of the gearbox with a gradual rise to the tank.

 

Now for the Pics:

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

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[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

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[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

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[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

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[Batfink 201]

Looks really tight. I think I will end up boxing out mine and sticking it in the passenger footwell. Then it can sit right on the floor.

Theres a 205 in this months performance french car with one nicely boxed..

 

Kev

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I can never seem to find that Performance French Car anywhere on the island, might have to subscribe online to it or something. Is there still that Performance GTi mag too?? Wouldnt mind stickin the pug in there when its up and running, think she's quite unique enough to warrant an entry!!

[tri_longer 25]

I can never seem to find that Performance French Car anywhere on the island, might have to subscribe online to it or something. Is there still that Performance GTi mag too?? Wouldnt mind stickin the pug in there when its up and running, think she's quite unique enough to warrant an entry!!

 

Try practical performance car as well, they love stuff like yours.