[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

What profile is your cam, I know we used all the well known brands of oil and got bad cam Bucket wear, swicthed to a 76 racing oil (Good old USA) and it went to none at all over a 2 year period so I really would give them a call, based in Wereham, Dorset.

 

Not sure on the profile, I'll have a look tomorrow and what sort of price is this oil at? Sounds good to me though

 

Cheers

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

I'm glad I'm goin dry sump after my hillclimb Monday and hopefully be rid of all this hassle an get it all done properly.

 

You'll regret saying that, they after all have more points to leak from

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Breathers are all clear and leak free

 

Has to be the sump!!!!

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Not much, Everyone thinks it's going to be hundreds but it was around the same and your local shop, £25.00 ish for 4L (US that is)

[petert 591]

What profile is your cam, I know we used all the well known brands of oil and got bad cam Bucket wear, swicthed to a 76 racing oil (Good old USA) and it went to none at all over a 2 year period so I really would give them a call, based in Wereham, Dorset.

 

Common in 8V's (soft cams) due to lack of zinc in oils now. Cats don't like zinc. Use a tube of Crane Break-In Lube (or similar) during assembly. It's rich in zinc. The zinc cushions the blow between lifter and bucket. This is the most highly stressed part of an engine.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Update on the oil leak, i re-tightened my sump bolts now to 20nm and replaced any which would go.

 

The oil now just seems to be coming from the LH gearbox end of the engine and actually appears to come from the side of the block as its also dripping from the very lowest corner of the gearbox. From where i can see it cant get onto the gearbox to drip from where it is if it was still leaking from the sump so im having to wonder if it could be crank oil seal gearbox end which would be a nightmare!!!!!

 

Will be getting it up on the ramp satde and will run it whilst under it to see exactly whats happening, this is now the only thing which will stop me racing monday as the constant drip as it is currently is too much to race with.....

[Dj_mini 7]

I had this for ages on my old mi I resealed the sump loads of times in the end I worked out it was the hockey sticks up the side of the bearing cap leaking also use the Honda spec loctite as you won't get a better sealant than that I'll dig out the part number for you.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I had this for ages on my old mi I resealed the sump loads of times in the end I worked out it was the hockey sticks up the side of the bearing cap leaking also use the Honda spec loctite as you won't get a better sealant than that I'll dig out the part number for you.

 

My guessing is seeing the way it runs down that it is definitely from that bearing cap/oil seal somehow. Im not familiar with these "hockey sticks" you mention, how do you seal these without pulling the whole damn engine apart???

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

+1 for DJ_mini... those hockey stick seals are a PITA

[Cameron 16]

Yes it is possible without pulling the engine apart, but you will have to remove the gearbox and flywheel.

 

1 - Take gearbox & flywheel off

2 - Remove sump

3 - Remove number 1 main bearing cap

4 - Remove & discard old hockey stick seals and crank seal

5 - Fit new hockey stick seals to main bearing cap, and put a small blob of RTV at the tops of them (where they get sandwiched to the block)

 

6 - IMPORTANT! Use some thin feeler blades either side of the bearing cap when you re-fit it, to allow the seals to slide into place easily. If you don't do this the seals will stretch, then when you cut them to length they will be too short once the rubber relaxes.

 

7 - Tighten bearing caps, then trim the hockey stick seals to +1mm above the sump sealing surface.

8 - Fit new crank seal, sump back on, gearbox etc etc etc..

 

It's all in the Haynes manual actually.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thanks Cameron, thats sounds like a last resort once all other possibilities have been explored PLUS something i should definitely not have to do seeing as its been professionally built by a reputable builder, NOT HAPPY.

 

If these hockeys sticks are too short will that result in them leaking, so can i not just load the bottom of them where they should protrude the block-sump surface with RTV??

 

Cheers

[welshpug 1,662]

I stick some sealant along the joint as well (once its all assembled, you do need to make sure there's no oil when you do though or it'll never stick)

Edited May 27, 2011 by welshpug

[Cameron 16]

Take it back to the engine builder and say it's leaking, they should fix it free of charge!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thats the best idea however its not going to get me through the hillclimb on Monday.

 

I will be getting it up on the ramp tomorrow and have a proper good look with a torch and some carb cleaner to clean it all away to see where its originating, if i cant fix it for monday (which is doubtful) then i will be phoning Mass Racing and telling them they will be paying all courier costs for me to send it back to them and fix the f'ing thing!!

 

IMO its too much of a leak to race with, at the moment its a constant drip every 5 seconds and very shortly creates a puddle.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

WANTED - GTi6 Sump Absorbant Heatproof Nappies, 1 pack of 20 should get me through the day!!

[petert 591]

Yes it is possible without pulling the engine apart, but you will have to remove the gearbox and flywheel.

 

1 - Take gearbox & flywheel off

2 - Remove sump

3 - Remove number 1 main bearing cap

4 - Remove & discard old hockey stick seals and crank seal

5 - Fit new hockey stick seals to main bearing cap, and put a small blob of RTV at the tops of them (where they get sandwiched to the block)

 

6 - IMPORTANT! Use some thin feeler blades either side of the bearing cap when you re-fit it, to allow the seals to slide into place easily. If you don't do this the seals will stretch, then when you cut them to length they will be too short once the rubber relaxes.

 

7 - Tighten bearing caps, then trim the hockey stick seals to +1mm above the sump sealing surface.

8 - Fit new crank seal, sump back on, gearbox etc etc etc..

 

It's all in the Haynes manual actually.

 

Almost, except you have to leave the seals 1 HOUR before cutting back, otherwise they will still shrink. I also butter everything up with ThreeBond 1211 and then run a fillet down each inside corner just to be certain. I had one break and leaked like a b@stard.

Edited May 27, 2011 by petert

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thanks for the info guys however if it comes to this sort of work I will not be performing it myself, not that I'm not capable it's more out of principle, I spent alot of money fr them to build this engine so they can fix i properly with not a Penney out of my pocket and while they're at it they can fit my dry sump which if they had told me was required earlier I would have told them to do it before sending me the engine!!

[Dj_mini 7]

Simon what size tank did you order? as iv finaly got hold of mark on the phone (he only seems to like emails!) hes now sugesting using a 8.25" by 16" as hes concerned about the capacity but i fear this going to to large to fit in my engine bay have you made any progress with it?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

That's the tank I am going for mate, it's 8.25" tall and the 90deg breather pipes stick up another 1.5" ontop. I haven't got anything yet as they seem to be very relaxed and are currently putting the kit together before they ask for payment and send it, they don't seem in much of a rush about it!! But I reckon the tank will fit between the gearbox and bulkhead inside the chassis leg though so it will pretty sit just above tour steering rack/LH steering arm.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

A little taster for you all of the way this engine revs, I can't get enough of it!!

 

 

Done from my iPhone so please copy and paste link or search you tube for Simon Ward Peugeot 205

 

Latest on the oil leak, sump has been off for second time and have now put in a gasket unlike the last attempt and applied RTV both sides of the gasket. In having a good look I think my problem could have because the main bearing cap with the hockey sticks gearbox end does not sit flush with the rest of the block, it's shallower hence why just using RTV and gasket didnt work so hopefully now this will work.

 

Also has been found that threads in the block for the sump are crapped out, has anyone ever re-tapped sump bolts threads in the bottom of an iron block to M8x1 from M7x1??????

[petert 591]

has anyone ever re-tapped sump bolts threads in the bottom of an iron block to M8x1 from M7x1??????

I haven't had to but that's the most correct thing to do. M8x1 bolts socket headed cap screws are easy obtain. If you slacked out and used M8x1.25 you'd pick up parts of the old threads.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

That's what I was thinking if I took them out to M8x1 then it would simply deepen the 1mm pitched thread by 0.5mm so giving the M8x1 something to hold onto.

 

I think that's my best bet!!

 

I'm about to go and fill her back up with oil and fire it up so it's judgement day for the oil leak once again

[petert 591]

That's what I was thinking if I took them out to M8x1 then it would simply deepen the 1mm pitched thread by 0.5mm so giving the M8x1 something to hold onto.

 

I think that's my best bet!!

 

I'm about to go and fill her back up with oil and fire it up so it's judgement day for the oil leak once again

 

You will still need to drill DIA7.0mm then use a taper, intermediate and plug taps on the blind holes. At least being upside down the shavings will fall out of the hole. Being cast iron you won't need any lubricant.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thats sounding more invloved than what I had in my head, didn't think I would need to drill to 7mm first being that they are M7 thread and so not a big step up to M8??

 

I see why u need the taps for the blind holes, just did a quick search.

 

Sorry being a nit naive.

Edited May 29, 2011 by wardy18

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Latest on the engine, spoken to Mass this morning and expressed my anger and dissappointment levels with this oil leak and they say the best way forward is for them to get the engine back and deal with the issues and at the same time fit my dry sump for me which they said is the least they can do. They cant understand why it wasnt leaking with them but is with me but they did know that the sump bolts werent the best in the block and i said it shouldnt have been sent to me knowing that which they agreed.

 

They said it will be 2 to 3 days work possibly so if i can fund the carriage to and from (£140 each bloody way) they will fix all the issues and fit my dry sump for nothing.

 

I think this is the best way rather than trying it myself because at the same time they can check the crank seal and possibly fit a new one as a matter of cause and check the hockey stick sealing and also the fact that the main bearing cap doesnt sit flush with the bottom of the block all of which i was not prepared to do myself. Then they can re-tap my block sump threads to M8x1 or they did mention M8x1.25 then remove the old GTi6 Oil pump and chain then fit the dry sump pan and pump and add the crank pulley and line it all up.

 

All i have left of my 2011 season is:

 

29th August Hillclimb (Le Val De Terres)

3rd September Hillclimb (Le Val De Terres)

10th September 1/4 Mile Sprint (Vazon Coast Road)

15/16/17th September 3 Day Sprint and Hillclimb in Alderney (awesome social/racing weekend)

8th October Hillclimb (Petit Bot)(Very difficult and technical hillclimb)

 

Cant say im best pleased at the moment!!!