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wardy18

[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

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wardy18

Does anyone produce this type of gearbox mount, I really want one but before going through making my own just wondering if anyone already does them??

 

http://www.rwracing.nl/peugeot/

 

ALSO

 

Are there any other peugeot hubs that can be fitted to a 205 which allows lower positioning of the wishbone mount to retain the correct wishbone angle when lowering?? (Hope you know what I mean)

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wardy18

I already have these fitted, but could do with being longer yet, however there will be increased strain the longer this bolt is!!

 

post-11100-0-58953100-1359364705_thumb.jpg

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welshpug

Colin's wishbones+307 hub would sort that... :D

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brumster

Colin's wishbones+307 hub would sort that... :D

 

Aren't 307 hubs a different damper mount though (the bolt-through design)?

 

Wardy - I made up my own gearbox mount, not the same as the one linked but a similar concept to how the factory team apparently used to do it - using some wishbone bushes to mount it a bit more solidly, and ditch the battery tray concoction. Was a bit of fun in terms of fabrication/welding but enjoyable to do, and rewarding when it was complete....

 

IMG_20110710_142646.jpg

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welshpug

yes forgot about that, must have been a 405/6 hub that colin has used on Sarty's 205.

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wardy18

Yeh i have spoken to Colin about the subframe he has built and will be an addittion one day, i was just wondering if there was different hubs i could use as a direct replacement for the 205/309, might give Colin a shout :D

 

I know its not the preferred choice from previous talks on here but i have just ordered a 6" set of 450lb Eibach springs to try on the front end, 450lb was the lowest rate they did in 6" but i wanted 6" free length so i have some adjustability on the shocks, currently wound down as low as they can go and would still like the car lower as it used to be!!

 

With regards to the gearbox mount, thanks for the pic, i have some ideas of what i want so might go ahead and start making some templates while the box is out so then just have to decide what to make it out of, that looks like some pretty thick steel in that pick which yeh would give the optimum strength but comes at a price of weight, at least with the std set up its pretty damn light and want to retain this factor.....any recommendations of what gauge steel to use??

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brumster

I used 3mm, which I think is the bare minimum. The chassis leg was plated with the same, on both sides and underneath (ie. in a U shape), and then some turned-up steel 'spacers' fitted through the leg and welded up each end, through which the bolts pass and obviously the mount bolts up to. Light weight it is not, but sturdy it is - it gets abuse in my line of work - maybe it is over-engineering it for sprinting, I'm not sure...

 

So far, so good, but I'm keeping an eye on it over time just to make sure!

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wardy18

Here's my ratios choice which are very far ends of the spectrum, Samsonas only do 2 final drives and they have very short 4th and 5th gear ratios so as you will see below with the 3.358 FD I have plenty of top end but the gear ratios are very long and I would only use 2nd and 3rd for the hillclimb however the 4.429FD has very short gear ratios which would be preferred for increased pick up and would use 3rd and 4th for the hillclimb but there is a serious lack of top end and on my 1/4mile sprints i would end up hitting the limiter in 5th well before the end, however I could possibly use my 16" wheels for sprints to extend the ratios!

 

Samsonas Dog Gears (MPH @ 7300rpm)

 

FD 3.358:-

 

1st 48.39

2nd 65.81

3rd 82.23

4th101.54

5th 124.06

 

FD 4.429:-

 

1st 37.79

2nd 51.39

3rd 64.22

4th 79.30

5th 96.88

 

What would be your choice??

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alexcrosse

first is pretty tall... whats your current top speed at your climb?

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wardy18

To be honest top speed at hillclimb I have never known, knowing how far I am through gears and looking at my current ratios I would have to say 80-85 mph which either Samsonas FD ratio can top out to in either 3rd or 4th if I add 100 rpm or so to my rev limit!!

 

My main concern is if I went for the long ratios would I loose out of pick up meaning my 0-60 would drop for the sake of top speed!!

 

I'm goin to look into what size slicks I can get for my 16" comps and see how that affects the top speeds in the calculations!! I have 6 16" compomotives, 4 of which I already use for my road wheels set so the other 2 I can put slicks on just for the fronts for my sprint events!!

 

Just don't want to sacrifice pick up for top speed when my main events are hillclimbs doing no more than 85mph approx

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alexcrosse

go for the 4.4 fd setup, no question. Not like you need to top gear for cruising... may aswell use it. will be ideal just with your current setup. you might find 16's ruin the car. You dont need the high speed cornering advantages.

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Batfink

Have you got the data in a calculator to work out each gear speed for each tyre combination. You also might want to look at what terminal speeds your competitors are reaching. If you only hit the limiter once but are faster everywhere else you should be at an advantage.

Edited by Batfink

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wardy18

The 16's would only be for the 3 1/4mile sprints events I have a year where I am currently reaching 108mph but ill check what tyres I can get and how it effects the top speed because of I ran my 15's as shown above I would only reach 97mph however I can always throw a few more rpm at the rev limit, only limited to 7200 because the power band starts to drop off!!

 

The 4.4 would be better for the hillclimb and as that's my main concern I suppose that should be the choice I go for!!

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Batfink

It's very possible you will hit a faster top speed with the new internals so the longer gearing might be better. Tough call!

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wardy18

The longer gears mean I use only 3 gears on the hillclimb whereas the shorter would be using 4 gears so I'm saving a gear change!!

 

Theres for and against for each but the overriding factor is getting to the max speed the quickest which the 4.4 is going to do better surely at the expense of top end but I can possibly get round this with different wheels

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kee

when does your cam kick in?

this should be a major consideration when choosing your gears. if you go for a longer ratio you could find yourself out of your cams range.

 

I haven't read back so I don't know what you currently have, but certainly worth considering.

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wardy18

Power band is 4500 upwards so this has been taken into consideration don't worry about that

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wardy18

ooOOOooohhhh shiney :wub:​ :wub:​

 

post-11100-0-03605000-1361964618_thumb.jpg

 

post-11100-0-33443700-1361964628_thumb.jpg

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wardy18

If your rear calipers were not releasing and were binding A LOT and you have bled them during which time they wouldn't bleed to start then released and a load of milky crap then bled perfectly, also completely pulled them apart ie removed and cleaned piston but still no joy

 

What would be the next step?!

 

Re-bleed

 

Buy new calipers

 

Run new lines

 

??

 

Thanks

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welshpug

check the flexi hoses and lines for any kinks.

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brumster

Check the sliding pistons for "stiction". I had a bent rear bracket once, stopped the caliper from sliding off cleanly.

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wardy18

yeh i refurbed and copper greased up all the sliders, they seem ok as a 15 year old caliper would i suppose!!

 

Ill also check for any kinks etc but i have goodridge hoses for the flexi bits so should be ok

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welshpug

you should not use copper grease (anti seize) on the sliders, standard moly or red brake grease is what you need.

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