[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[tri_longer 25]

I thought you were asking about plumbed in options

Likewise.

 

^{I'm sure Brusmter will confirm, but in Rally you have to have a pumbed in and a hand held .}

 

^{Simon is right most venues have a marshal close enough, and a hand held isn't oing to do much as you won't be wanting to open the bonnet in a hurry and the marshals certainly don't until they are certain it is out.}

 

^{I'd look at a basic plumed in one irrspective of whether you are required to have one, bit more expensive but not as expensive as rebuilding the whole engine bay.}

Edited July 17, 2012 by tri_longer

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I'm thinking of removing the extinguisher altogether rather than adding in extra but I know your right

 

If I can find a 1.75ltr extinguisher which I can plumb in then I will go that route!!

 

Really want to keep the weight down so don't want any bigger than 1.75ltr or less maybe!!!

 

Cameron - the greenstuff pads are gone for good now!!!

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

Ah that's fair enough, I didn't realise marshals were so at hand. Appreciate a plumbed-in is a lot of complexity, but I think I'd still carry around a little hand-held just to be on the safe side. A Halon one too, I suspect, and sod the EU and their stupid directives!

[alexcrosse 124]

get some DS1.11 compound pads

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Quick update from yesterdays Hillclimb, perfect conditions (finally)

 

It was Guernseys round of the Biritish National Champs so had all the big UK boys over, great to see the cars and the Raptor Extreme took Le Val De Terres Outright record by 0.20s, awesome to watch.

 

So my final result was a win in my class, beat my pb by a further 0.24s and took the class record by 0.51s and came home with everything in tact with a time of 34.19s.

 

After analysis of my split times against other similar cars (ie 406bhp M3 EVO) i am loosing alot of time off the start line, well when saying alot of time i mean my 0-64ft times are 2.45s whereas others are doing 2.35s so i am loosing a tenth on them before even up to speed, fair enough these are rwd and im only fwd but time i think to engage and set up Launch Control from the DTA S40PRO....(Sandy ill be giving you a call if thats ok)

 

Next event on the 11th August so go 3 weeks, updates before next hill are:

 

Gaz Gold suspension

ABMotorsport Camber/Caster Top Mounts

Brise Starter Motor (once its fixed)

Substantial lightening behind rear wheel centres

 

Hoping for a final weight of 720 - 725kg which without spending alot of money may be my limit.

 

Dying to get the new suspension on as i am loosing tenths of seconds through the long twisty sections, having to run the front suspension very hard so the suspension doesnt bottom out, hopefully with the shortened body of the Gaz setup and being able to run more camber will give me much more grip.

 

 

[Sandy 191]

Well done! Launch control often does improve starts, but 2.45 is already pretty good for FWD. Basically you need a hall effect rear wheel speed, a few minor loom additions and most importantly, careful setting up.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Great thanks Sandy, i was wondering how it all worked but thats given me a big clue, i have seen basic launch control before by the Omex systems where by you set a rpm to limit to until the press of a button to unleash all rpm but the S40 manual has mentioned other things as if it reads the front wheel spinning which confused me but now you say a sensor is put on the rear wheels which the ecu uses to tell if the front wheels are turning faster and so spinning.

 

I know a certain amount of spin in beneficial so it must be hard to dial this in??

 

Launch control will also eradicate the driver variable and will keep starts constant because that last run i did of 34.19s was with a 2.53s 64ft time which is a tenth slower than i can do.

Edited July 22, 2012 by wardy18

[Sandy 191]

The base model DTA system is alot more sophisticated than the OMEX 600 offering and most others. It can be done on a basic button/rev limit, or without a wheel sensor using a staged rev limit on time elapse, but the proper way is with a wheel sensor, that work with an initial rev limit followed by slip percentage, that takes over when the target wheel speed related revs pass the initial rev limit. The wheel sensor gives undriven wheel speed, which the ECU compares to programmed driven wheel rotation/rev to calculate the target slip speed. The best slip varies with different tyres, road tyres for example give their best launch traction at less slip than proper slicks etc. It depends on the engine too, because some are more given to bogging down than others (overall quality of the mapping a major factor there). I've done alot of testing with this on the JRE engined cars and the sweet spot is really obvious when you hit it.

The rev limit on the line can be fixed, or you can have it so you set it by dialling in the desired revs when you press the launch button or by a log pot knob on the dash; which is a great way to vary it for different surfaces and weather etc. The amount of throttle you use on the line also helps to define the aggression of the launch.

[Cameron 16]

Are you fitting stiffer springs along with the new struts? Sounds like you need them if you're bottoming out a lot.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

My struts are the problem, when I say bottoming out I actually mean that the Damper body hits up against the bump stop round long fast corners leaving me with no suspension at all and masses of understear so I have to stiffen the suspension as far as poss to stop this happening.

 

I only have about 20mm travel on the front struts which is not enough at all but didn't want to compromise ride height and centre of gravity more than what I already have.

 

I have requested 300lb springs with the new set up but I am going to whip mine off this week and go test a spring as I have no idea what springs I am currently running (came with the 1st 205 I bought) sounds poor on my behalf but they haven't been a problem until I am now getting down to proper times and going even faster with a heavier engine up front.

[Cameron 16]

Yeah 20mm really isn't that much, you'll suck all of that up in roll even in moderate corners! The Golds have shortened bodies which will help you keep your ride height the same and gain some crucial suspension travel back.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh that's a main reason I went for them over bilsteins, they are 30mm shorter body plus I'm having them shortened a further 20mm.

 

Trouble is that currently I have 20mm travel and that's with fitting the struts from above the turret, ie dropping them down through the hole and bolting ontop of the turret however then camber/caster mounts have to be mounted as standard underneath so loosing an element of travel there.

 

So 20mm (current travel) + 30mm (gaz body) + 20mm (shortened body) - say 20mm (mountin under turret) should give 50mm travel (PERECT)

[welshpug 1,661]

what's your wishbone angles like?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I set them as close to standard as possible, do you for caster purposes or height wise?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

New suspension just arrived, thats my friday sorted (good thing i have 2 weeks off work which has seemed to coincide well with our 1 week summer)

 

 

 

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

OUT WITH THE OLD AND IN WITH THE NEW (one downside is the Gaz Golds are 1.4kg heavier than the Spax DAMN IT)

 

 

 

 

Now my Ally OMP Strut Brace covers too much of the top mount so much that i can access the adjustments bolts for the top mounts, now just need some opinions on cutting the strut brace mounts down, i want to cut on the inside of the black pen mark to make it bolt down by only 2 strut top bolts either side and not all 3 however i am concerned by not knowing the forces which the strut brace endures that it may snap the 2 bolts on either strut top with not having the additional security of the 3rd bolt each side to spread the forces?? Opinions please that i can do this or not??

 

 

[welshpug 1,661]

I'd get a weld in brace like Colin does, much lighter and a bit stiffer.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh anything welded in kinda concerns me as the strut brace is the first thing to be removed when taking the engine out plus it will go straight over the top of my oil tank?!!?

 

Do you reckon this will work ok in the mean time then with only 2 bolts either side?

[Cameron 16]

I think WP means you weld brackets to the top mounts and have a removable brace bar, rather than weld a bar in place.

[welshpug 1,661]

yes, cameron has it.

 

I don't think it would be wise to cut your brace, by the looks of it it is a rarer OMP alloy brace, so needs more material than the steel ones do do the job I would imagine, also how often do you really need to alter your suspension settings? you can always unbolt it if you need to fiddle and re-fit when you're done.

 

this is on DrSarty's 205, colin made it IIRC.

 

Edited July 29, 2012 by welshpug

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ah ok thanks for clearing that up, I have seen pics of some welded in place although not directly across from one strut top to another, I'll get Colin to add this to my current order with him :0)

 

On a different subject slightly, if anyone is ever thinking of buying a Brise starter motor and they try and tell you that they have moved to a 10t drive gear which is a direct replacement for the standard 9t DON'T BELEIVE THEM, the 10t they supply barely meshes with the flywheel teeth ie maybe only 1 - 1.5mm which is not enough and starts chewing into your flywheel!! Strongly request the 9t which is ironically a larger diameter gear cog.......

Edited July 29, 2012 by wardy18

[welshpug 1,661]

that's odd, you'd think the 10T would be larger diameter if the tooth profile was correct....

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I'm going to confirm again tomorrow with them as they also said the 10t was 24mm diameter and the 9t 29mm diameter however my brand new 10t just sent from them is 28mm!!

 

They took a while to answer the phone so maybe the cleaner answered the phone and gave me some spiel!!

[tri_longer 25]

I can't believe the grief you have had with that starter motor, if I'd had any inkling it was going to be like this I wouldn't have even mentioned it.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Mate please don't worry about it, I am impressed with the starter itself just have a few teething problems to iron out, the end result will be a spot on starter, put it this way my l-ion battery wouldn't turn over the standard starter but it happily turned over the Brise unit which I'm very happy with!!

 

I have just spoken to Tim Brise the main man and got some proper clarification, ie the last guy I spoke to didn't have a scooby what he was on about!!

 

So please ignore what I wrote above about the 10 and 9t, the 10t is actually the largest gear available and has the correct tooth spacing for Peugeot flywheels however the problem lies with the actual mounting bracket itself giving too much offset and only allowing the drive gear to mesh with the flywheel by 1 - 1.5mm.

 

I am going to take some measurements and send pics to Tim so he can produce a new mounting bracket as he said he has this issue with a few other Peugeot customers too.

 

He reckons once he has some definitive measurements he can knock one out very quickly ie have it to me before my next event on the 11th Aug!!!