[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Back on the weight savings ideas, im considering ditching my race alloy 50mm thick radiator and just fit back a nice new std 205 unit, my car rarely reaches full temp for longer than a few minutes doing hillclimbing and i might also ditch the weaker of my two cooling fans, or at least disconnect it to start with to test of the single fan plus the std rad gives me enough cooling

 

the std rad MUST be lighter due to the side walls being plastic and only being a narrow rad plus the system will hold less water saving even more weight

 

 

Just wish i didnt need to run 7ltrs of oil in the dry sump!!!!!!!!!!!

[TT205 42]

Do you really need a dry sump?

 

 

 

(runs and hides )

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

i wish i didnt but it was from the strong advice from Mass plus when i ran the car for the very short while with the old sump on and went only 20mph round a corner the oil light came on so it just wasnt worth the risk!!

[Cameron 16]

I wouldn't race a 205 on slicks without a dry sump, especially if I'd just spent a crapload of money having the engine built!

 

When mine goes on slicks next year it will also be getting a dry sump!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I have a small dilema, see what you think

 

This is BE1 Floating reverse cog with the BE1 Input shaft, note how much they overlap which keeps the floating reverse cog spinning until you lift it up to meet the reverse on the output shaft. This cog permanently spins with the input shaft through all the gears.

 

 

Now see my hybrid BE3 input shaft fitted to get the lower 1st gear ratio back, you'll see how the reverse gear on the input shaft doesnt overlap the floating reverse cog as much and so im concerned it may chew it up instead of constantly spinning it. The reverse cog is very free spinning so it doesnt take much to turn it with the input shaft so i think it should be fine.

 

 

Hope you know what i mean.

 

The reason the 1st gear cast cog on the inpput shaft is higher on the BE3 is because in the BE3 box reverse is below 5th an so this floating reverse cog is dropped from above to mate the input and output shafts, whereas BE1 is next to 1st and so the floating reverse cog is lifted to mate the input and output.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ok gearbox is now back together and fully functional so happy days

 

BUT.......one step forward and 100 back as always

 

Whilst removing the 14x62 Crownwheel from my diff, i look through the centre of the diff and see a massive break in one of the cross pins, FFS!!! I then continued to pull the diff apart to find that the 2nd cross pin had also broken in 2 places (see pics).

 

As it happens it needs a rebuild anyway as Colin advised being a couple seasons old now so the whole thing is to be shipped back to Gripper for a revamp.

 

So not only have i raced the last few events on a non compliant clutch but i have been racing with a broken diff.

 

I know when this would happened also, when i had my crash last year the rear left hit the wall and slammed the front left into the wall too which bent a wishbone and obviously in turn compacted the driveshaft and forced it into the diff breaking these cross pins.

 

Suppose i should count my blessings that by using it for the last few events of this year broken hasnt done any extra damage inside the diff.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Another weight saving idea: (whilst being tortured with 2 hours of xfactor)

 

Remove my front big brake conversion and fit back standard sized grooved and drilled discs.

 

Some might say wtf are you thinking but the 285mm big brake conversion is ideally for track racing and rallying where the car can suffer from brake fade from overheating. I only do hillclimbing and sprinting and my brakes are barely warm at the end of a run so no danger of brake fade.

 

This will save me the weight of the extra size disc plus the conversion bracket to space out the caliper.

 

I have some std size drilled/grooved discs so I'm goin to weigh both sizes and compare weights.

 

Also more importantly this will lower inertia and act like a lightened flywheel.

 

Exciting :0)

[Liquid_106 97 1 Cars]

Door handle weight saving is where its at

 

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ooh that looks interesting, how have you done that?!? Its that cut up i cant even recognise how that fits on, i that the actual door handle just without the plastic?!?!

 

may not be a great deal weight saving but i bet it looks awesome on the side of the car with the holes drilled!!

 

great idea, thanks

 

ps excellent use of the wifes kitchen scales i also slipped mine out into the garage on satde without her noticing

Edited October 3, 2011 by wardy18

[Cameron 16]

Why not fit some of the AP 2-pots? The standard caliper is 5kg and the disc is 5.5kg if I remember it right.. in contrast the AP caliper is 1.1kg and depending on whether you get rotors with ally bells or not you can get the disc down to 3-4kg with a 280mm rotor (although the very light AP rotors are £300 each!) A total saving of 10-12kg sounds pretty good and it's all unsprung mass!

Edited October 3, 2011 by Cameron

[welshpug 1,662]

1.6 gti bendix calipers are nice and light

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Wow thats a serious weight saving with the AP Calipers, i bet they dont come cheap like you say £300 for the rotors

 

ill look into this tonight.

 

Whats the weight comparison with the 1.6 Bendix calipers?? do you know?

[welshpug 1,662]

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=84026&view=findpost&p=759056

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

My goal weight is 750kg, that will give me 300bhp per tonne!!

[Cameron 16]

The AP ones I can get for decent money, they come off Lotus Elise / Exiges. Let me know if you want a set and I'll talk to my mate, he got me a brand spanking new set for cheap.

 

The weights on that link seem about right, my 1.9 ones were weighed on scales accurate to 0.1g at came out very close to 5kg with pads.

[swordfish210 20]

1.6 gti bendix calipers are nice and light

 

They're nice and s*ite at stopping the car too

[welshpug 1,662]

They're nice and s*ite at stopping the car too

 

only when knackered

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

So what knackers up on them and what do you re-place when giving a re-con??

 

If i can get an old set for cheap and re-con them then happy days (im sure it wont be that easy, nothing ever is these days)

 

I dont think i have any in my stock pile of bits but ill have a look!!

[welshpug 1,662]

just the sliders and seals, not much more to them tbh

 

a friend runs them on a 1.6 rally car with yellowstuff -pds and doesnt have any issues at all.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

So the same with Girling then really because if those sliders seize up then the brakes bind and dont release very well because the caliper isnt free to move

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I have just realised something, are these 1.6Gti Bendix Calipers also found on the rear end of the 1.9Gti's because looking at pictures they sure as hell look the same, especially the way the pads are held in with the bars and spring clips

[welshpug 1,662]

they aren't the same but they are very similar, the picture is of a front caliper.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Service box says no.......

 

They are similar design in how they hold the pads in but the pistons are much different.

[swordfish210 20]

Service box says no.......

 

They are similar design in how they hold the pads in but the pistons are much different.

 

Don't forget the handbrake mechanism. I really wouldn't bother with the 1.6 calipers, i used to have some that were in perfect working order with Pagid RS4-2 pads on the front of my XT and i replaced them for the 266mm calipers found on the 306 XSI with some Ferrodo Premier pads and they are so much better. Go for the Lotus twin pots, they seem to be a much better choice.

[Liquid_106 97 1 Cars]

in contrast the AP caliper is 1.1kg and depending on whether you get rotors with ally bells or not you can get the disc down to 3-4kg with a 280mm rotor

What discs can you use if not going down the bell & rotor route?