[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Just took the car for it's maiden voyage, a half hour drive and ran like a dream, cruising temps 50deg coolant, 55deg oil temp and between 40 and 60bar oil pressure depending on rpm. Didn't look at oil pressure on full rev as I was busy holding it straight due to Gripper Diff.

 

I have never driven such a responsive car, just a touch on the throttle and it feels like I've just been hit from the rear by a truck, almost sounds like it thumps the power to the wheels!!

 

Gave it full beans from the yellow lines a few times and within the blink on an eye it hit the limiter then dropped it into second and it litterly didn't move from the limiter, by that time I was drawing too much attention to myself so had to drop the revs into 3rd and try and get some traction, I think she will transform with the 9" soft slicks on the front and push my eye balls out my arsehole!!!

 

That's one he'll of an engine and it's still in need of it's final ecu map tweaks yet so not at 100%!

 

Handles great too, but it's one of those drives that comes together with power and movement, cruising slowly just isn't an option!!

 

Love it……

[welshpug 1,662]

those temps are a bit low udeal running temperatures for most emgines are close to what the factory thermostats are set to, even in a highly tuned state.

 

youll get accelerated wear running cold as much as too hot.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I'll look more into the oil temp side of things on the next time out, remember this is driving at 2 to 4k rpm doing only 35mph so not pushing the engine hard, but thanks I'll try and ensure I don't do too much driving whilst temps are low, I know Mass said 90 was the optimal temp for the oil and 120 max running temp. I don't run an oil cooler either. Oil sensor is situated in the bottom of the oil tank so don't know if that's any cooler than the engines oil temp??

 

With regards to the coolant temp, this is temp of the water entering the engine from the rad as the sensor is the elbow entering the back of the block from the rad so this will be a cooler temp than the engines temp,

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

1st event tomorrow, car is 100% ready and goin very well, am very excited but very nervous at the same time.

 

I have a GoPro camera fitted to the front splitter and a professional microphone so will get some great HD quality video for you all.

 

Wish me luck!!! Haven't had alot so far so something must go my way soon.

[tri_longer 25]

Great news that it is running, best of luck with the event tomorrow.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

those temps are a bit low udeal running temperatures for most emgines are close to what the factory thermostats are set to, even in a highly tuned state.

 

youll get accelerated wear running cold as much as too hot.

 

What would be your suggestions in getting the oil hotter, just running the engine up between runs yesterday only got my oil up to 65deg and thats running at between 1200 and 1600rpm for 10mins,by the time i was to the top of the hill and finished my run the temp was at 80-85deg. Just cant seem to get the oil hot enough, what would be your suggestions?!?!?

 

Many Thanks

 

Simon

[Batfink 201]

smaller radiator? Maybe try blocking off part to see if that brings the temps up a little.

Edited August 30, 2011 by Batfink

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

So bringing the water temps up thus increasing engine temps quicker.....but whilst stationery blocking the rad isnt going to do much, oil temp once the run is finished isnt the problem its getting the initial temp up to what its should before the run

[welshpug 1,662]

do you run a thermostat? id try gettting a coolant sensor on the thermostat housing too, much truer infication of temperatures.

[tri_longer 25]

What about a higher rated thermostat to keep the water in the block longer? I have to say considering you havevn't got miles of pipework for the dry sump which would allow heat to dissipate it is running very cool.

 

That aside how did it go in it's first true test?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

do you run a thermostat? id try gettting a coolant sensor on the thermostat housing too, much truer infication of temperatures.

 

yes run a std 82deg thermostat and i had the coolant sensor put in the back of the water housing where there are 2 sensors as std, i can run it up and plug the laptop in to see what the true temps of the water is at the top of the engine before leaving through the thermostat but how well will this reflect the oil temps?!?

 

my oil sensor is at the same level as the exit pipe in the oil tank so that temp reading is the temp of the oil entering the engine, not leavin the engine

 

hillclimb went very well, within 1 practise and 2 timed runs i was on par with my old times back in 2009 season and im still working out what gears to run where and getting my confidence on how the power will affect the car round tough bends when mounting pavements etc at the same time, there are bends with granite walls as your run off so its build up gradually and not throw it in the wall, find teh limits slowly!!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Here's the links to the 2 videos of my 2 dry timed runs

 

Run 1 @ 35.49s

 

Run 2 @ 35.28s

 

Viewing these has shown me exactly where the extra time will come, the first run i ran very wide by taking too much speed in the long left hander, you'll notice the me being the wrong side of the white line and the apex of the corner being way off to the left. The 2nd run i didnt drop back down into 3rd for the long left so it dropped out the power band and lost me momentum all the way up, you'll hear when coming onto the straight when i finally hit the power band again.

 

Also still very cautious round the first corner as there is lampost which sticks out on the exit so this is a corner to build up confidence in how far to push through it slowly and also the same at the top set of corners before the finish line, these corners are very bad for lift off oversteer in a front wheel drive!!

 

Im very happy though because within 1 practise and 2 timed runs i was down to my old times in the old car back in 2009 and those old times took me a full season to get to so it shows how much more potential this build has!!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

2nd hillclimb today and I have now found that 203lbft of torque and 9" Avon sticky slick Tyres is too much for a 4 paddle plate in a std 205 housing!!! Gutted

 

To really get the most from the starts I need to short shift into 2nd to stop the wheel spin and get some power down but as soon as I do this the car goes no where and just spins/slips/burns the clutch plate

 

SO

 

time to spend stupid money on a cermatallic paddle plate and a AP Racing or Helix housing, ie the proper race clutches but only a single plate, don't think I need twin plate!!! Still gonna be at least £550 for a Helix Single plate 4 paddle set up!

 

Any recommendations on the way forward???

 

Need to stick to 200mm as I'm not buying a new flywheel too!!!

[Cameron 16]

I have a Helix cerametallic single plate, I think the cover was rated to 200Nm and they do a higher torque version. It's awesome!

 

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Looks great, looking at demon tweeks they supply a Helix 200mm Single plate Cerametallic clutch with Red diaphram rated at 256 lbft for £390

 

Need to speak to Colin Satchell and see if I can use the paddle plate he has made me that I'm running now in this new Helix clutch housing or if I need to buy a new helix paddle plate to go with the new housing

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Quick update.....

 

More hillclimb videos and a 1/4 mile sprint video on Youtube, just type in Simon Ward Guernsey and they should all come up under my mates user name Fiftypencer8.

 

Heading to Alderney tonight for a 3 day event (1/4Mile Sprint Thursday, Hillclimb Friday & Saturday) so there will be lots of footage coming back from that. Although it wont be that spectacular as my clutch is letting me down big time as it just cant take the torque the engine is pushing out. I am currently running about 0.35s slower off the line to the 64ft split time which is then detremental all the way up the hillclimb or down the sprint, although i am still matchin my old times from the old 205 before i wrote it off which is promising.

 

Clutch/Flywheel is all ready to order:

 

APRacing 184mm Twin Plate Clutch rated at just over 300lbft (From Questmead)

2x APRacing 3 Paddle Rigid Bonded Plates (From Questmead)

Helix Custom Peugeot BE3 Release Bearing (a new product they have released to save adapting an std bearing to suit) (From Rallynuts)

TTV 184mm Supalite Billet Steel Flywheel (Direct from TTV)

 

Costly but bullet proof!!! (wish i could say the same for my poor 309 driveshafts once i uprate the clutch)

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Hi all,

 

Alderney events went well and i beat all of my PB's with the new car however my clutch gave me nothing but trouble especially at the hillclimb where i was unable to use 4th gear through a left right S bend because the clutch could not take the torque to the engine was trying to put through. So much more potential to go yet!!

 

As i will be removing the gearbox to fit my new clutch/flywheel in the next couple of weeks i would like to overhaul the gearbox at the same time as its getting a little crunchy with the pounding its getting from fast changes up the hillclimbs. I am thinking Synchros but not sure how and if there is anything else to overhaul while im in there??

 

I have rebuilt the box once before when i fitted my new diff and 4:4 CWP but the guide i downloaded off the internet has since disappeared so i need to search for that again, any ideas??

 

I will also be removing the 4:4 CWP and refitting the old 1.9 CWP which i think is say 3:9 or similar just to improve my ratios for the hill now i have the extra power.

 

SImon

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

1.9 is 3.69 and it's pretty long for flats, let along hills! You may want a 4.0 from a 1.6.

 

Here's some gearbox ratio info: http://www.205gti.com/techgearboxUK.htm

[welshpug 1,662]

seeing as it has 200 lbft and delivers its power much like a 1.9 I'd imagine it'd be fine

 

though tbh I'd leave it as is and use a higher gear

 

as for what to replace in the box, whatever is worn!

Edited September 19, 2011 by welshpug

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yea a 4 would be great, I can't remember how to identify the crown wheel with regards to this ratio, does it have it stamped on?

 

I want to drop the final drive purely to suit our hillclimb really as that's my main event, I need to drag 3rd out longer so im not changing up and down through the technical sections, get it 3rd and keep it there until the straight

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I read a while back that a company made uprated driveshafts for the 205?? Im sure the company name started with M but i just cannot find the thread i was reading for the life of me, can anyone help?!?

[tri_longer 25]

Don't Quaife do uprated shafts?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh im going to call them, i have Quiafe and Drivelink to call but im sure this other company started with M and you sent them your shafts for them to re work!!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Can anyone confirm the following Engine/Ratio/Tooth of Peugeot Final Drive CWP as I keep reading different on the Internet and need to be sure what im about to put in:

 

Mi16. 4.43:1. 14 x 62

 

1.9Gti. 3.69:1. 16 x 59

 

1.6Gti. 4.06:1. 16 x 65

 

Please can someone confirm, especially the tooth count on the CWP's

 

Many thanks

Edited September 21, 2011 by wardy18

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

you still able to make a set of those arches wardy?