[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[Batfink 201]

i'll scan the picture....

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Just registered and subscribed to PFC

 

yeh a pic of it would be great, cheers

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Decisions, i have priced up all the hoses and fittings i need for the dry sump set up now i need to decide whether to go for the:

 

Aeroquip AQP Socketless Push On Hose with the Moquip Socketless Fittings coming in at £140ish

 

 

OR

 

Aeroquip AQP Racing S/S Braided Hose with Aeroquip Fittings at £265ish

 

 

I think i trust the AQP Racing hose over the Socketless Push On hose but surely if you throw on a Jubilee clip to each fitting the Socketless will be just as good (even though it states you dont need any Jubilees at all just push the hose on the Socketless fitting an thats that).

 

Pricewise the difference warrants a touch decision!!

 

OPINIONS PLZ

[tri_longer 25]

I know it seems counter intuitive but surely they wouldn't market and sell something if it didn't do the intended job. Considering the cosst saving I'd go with it and just to be certain, even if they say you don't need them bung on some jubilees.

[Cameron 16]

Hmm it's a toughie but I'd go for the proper fittings tbh.. expensive but lighter, more bling-tastic and definitely leak-free.

 

Push-on hose is a risk IMO, especially for oil which has a nasty habit of being able to leak past even the tiniest of gaps.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Why do you do this.........

 

thats 1:1 at the moment

 

but to be honest i think im more on Chris's idea, they wouldnt market them for that purpose if they werent up to the job and a back up jubilee is a good idea

[jackherer 543]

My friends 205 has those fittings on his oil cooler hoses, we've done several track days with no leaks.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Good man, thanks for the usage report, thats what i was looking for

[joe1joe 3]

I have push fitings and they are fine, i wouldnt want to put clips on tho

[joe1joe 3]

I have push fitings and they are fine, i wouldnt want to put clips on tho

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Great thanks, which make fittings and hose did you use?? im looking at Moquip Socketless Steel Fittings and Aeroquip AQP Socketless Hose

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Just a thought on the expensive Aeroquip/Goodridge fittings, whilst at goodwood i saw a lovely Ford RS200 Rally Car being taken back to the pits on a flat bed, on later inspection i could see that the braided hose had pulled out of the Aeroquip/Goodridge fitting (not the cheaper push on ones, the more expensive ones) and sprayed some form of oil/fluid all over the place!!! So even they can crap out!!

[rallyeash 155]

go to a agricultral spares place or similar and just get proper hydraulic crimped pipe, will do the job fine and costs about 15 for a 500mm length and two 1/2 bsp elbow fittings

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Update on the engine, is now palleted ready to be shipped back to me :D John has re-tapped all the sump bolt threads in the block to M8, removed the Gearbox end main bearing cap with the hockey sticks and found one of the hockey sticks to be split (hence the constant oil leak) so refitted with new hockey sticks and Peugeot Sport sealer to ensure no more leaks, removed all the old oil pump gubbins and fitted up the nice new PACE dry sump pan and pump and pulleys, also plugged all of the old oil breather and filler pipes with proper ally plugs.

 

I have just ordered the Aeroquip AQP Socketless and Moquip Socketless hoses and fittings from Demon Tweeks so will have those in a couple of days.

 

Have done a few bits on the car whilst engine is out, because the car is so low as said previously in this thread my front suspension is mount from above the turret down though the hole, seeing as my turrets are reinforced this will work fine however i was always a little unsure about having the whole front of the car haning on the heads of 6 M8 8.8HT bolts (3 either side) so i have now drilled and tapped 4 extra M10 12.9HT (2 each side) and replaced the M8 8.8HT bolts with M8 12.9HT bolts. I could imaging the force pushing on those bolts when cornering so this is a great piece of mind upgrade.

 

Ill get some pics up as soon as the engine arrives back of the new parts ie PACE Dry Sump, Suspension Bolts and the new Maniflow 4:2:1 Manifold.

 

After going to Goodwood has really given me the bug to get the most from this car and get it to the UK for some UK events so i will be looking into this for the future, if i can find a Luton Van to convert i can then slide the car in the back and have no fuss with trailors. Watch this space!!!

[tri_longer 25]

 

After going to Goodwood has really given me the bug to get the most from this car and get it to the UK for some UK events so i will be looking into this for the future, if i can find a Luton Van to convert i can then slide the car in the back and have no fuss with trailors. Watch this space!!!

 

On that basis, and in the nicest possible way I am SOOOO glad that you aren't in the same class as me.

 

I would love to see it run though.

Edited July 6, 2011 by tri_longer

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I would love to see it run though.

 

So would i think its about time i had some good fortune with it!!

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

Share your concerns on mounting the top-mounts on top of the shell rather than underneath, if that's the way to describe it. My new build has them this way too and I was worrying about the same thing, despite my suspension guru telling me to not worry :-) ! He pointed out when he was working for Ralliart there were WRC teams mounting them this way (possibly Ralliart themselves; I can't remember what he said), and having seen what those guys do, I doubt I'll stress them that much. However I do recall one WRC car popping a strut top through it's bonnet a few years ago, but that was after clonking a rather serious looking rock :-)

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Oh thats good then, put my mind even more at rest then, im very happy now with my 6x M8 12.9High Tensiles and 4x M10 12.9high Tensiles and some 2mm thick washers underneath to spread the weight a little more.

 

just need some new suspension struts on the front now so i can lower her even more, the damper body on my SPAX RSX are too long so i dont have alot of travel before the body is bottoming out on the bump stop, ie 20mm travel!! Need some uber short damper struts!!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Engine is now back with me, built on the ITB's last nite and cleaned her up ready to be dropped in Saturday, just need to make the fitment brackets for my Oil Tank tonight and then were ready. However, one slight drawback of having the dry sump, because of the extra width of the engine pulleys now with the dry sump pump pulley stickin out so much there is no chance i can drop the engine in with the gearbox pre fitted, it was a struggle just clearing the std crank pulley with the Trigger Wheel and the CPS in place. So the plan is to remove the gearbox mounting bolt and slide the box right under the chassis leg and then drop the engine in and slide the box on from there and bolt it up in place.

 

Anyways here's the pics of the engine now (happily Mass professionally plugged all my discarded oil breather pipes and oil filler pipes with proper ally plugs):

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

.

[Cameron 16]

Are you gonna look into dropping the engine a little lower now that it's dry sumped?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I do have a 10mm spacer which was made ages ago for me for the top mount which i think i will use but i need to make sure the engine is level so will need to adjust the gearbox mount too with a couple of spacers.

 

Whilst at Goodwood i had a look at one of the old Honda Accord BTCC cars and only when i was ontop of the engine bay could i actually see the engine, it was unbeleivably low mounted, so low i couldnt understand how it wasnt scraping on the deck, i mean it was easily a foot under the bonnet!!

 

The trouble is, i see anyway, just spacing the current engine mounts means the engine mount is longer vertically and so the engine although solid mounted can swing easier under load?!?!

Edited July 13, 2011 by wardy18

[welshpug 1,662]

main issue you'd encounter is the angle of the driveshafts and space between the CV's and the subframe.

 

not really viable unless you get a touring car box that places the shafts higher up.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh i think ill fit back my 10mm spacer to the top mount and check the level of the engine and leave it at that.

 

Like i said before i need to get hold of some shorter front Dampers so i can lower the front right down and still have some suspension travel.

[Cameron 16]

I wouldn't worry too much about driveshaft angles, dropping the engine 50mm will only add a couple of degrees.. you can tilt the engine a little more upright while you're at it which will bring the gearbox outputs a little higher. The large bulk of the engine's mass (especially with the 8V) is in the crank so getting that as low as you can will easily offset any effects of bringing the engine more upright.

 

Adding spacers to engine mounts isn't the best of solutions as I'm sure you know! Would be far better to have some mounts fabricated to solid mount the engine in it's lower position.. obviously this costs money if you don't have the equipment and know-how. If you're interested, over the winter I'll be working to make some solid mounts when I dry sump the engine,