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wardy18

[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

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Dj_mini

Have you ordered your dry sump from pace as iv been talking with mark there about a new one for mine and the more you spend the more discount he can give so could poss buy them together to gain a bit more?

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Cameron

If you're doing a dry sump group buy count me the hell in! :D

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wardy18

Ooh well i havent ordered anything yet and Mark has already offered me on my own 10% discount but there is a 2 week waiting list for the cast sump pans apparently!

 

I am In contact with him at the moment finding out exactly what you get for the price as the website, he says, is very very out of date and shouldn't really be taken any notice off.

 

I'll throw the prices he has given me up tomorrow and also the prices I have found for the Push Lok pipework and fittings

 

Regards

 

Simon

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Cameron

Awesome, cheers! If you could talk to him about potential group buy savings too that would be great! :D

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wardy18

PACE Dry Sump Prices as follows: (ALL PRICES ARE EXC VAT so add 20% on)

 

PACE Dry Sump Kit (Sump, Baffles, Pump and Pulley, Pump to Sump Hoses/Pipes, Pump/Sump Fittings in -10 and -12 JIC, Oil Filter Adapter Plate & Fittings, Crank Pulley and Belt) - £758.28

 

8.25" PACE Oil Tank (16" Tall, 8.25" Diameter, Splits in half for easy cleaning, Excluding -12 JIC Fittings) - £207.56

 

Remote Oil Filter Housing (Excluding -10 JIC Fittings, Waiting to hear thread size/pitch for Oil Temp Sender) - £32.50

 

 

I have priced up all the fittings i need from Demon Tweeks and will be using the Aeroquip AQP Socketless Push On Hose and Moquip Steel Female Socketless Hose Fittings as follows:

 

PACE Pump:

2x -12 JIC 90deg (MOCHEFP97-12) - £11.81ea

1x -10 JIC 90deg (MOCHEFP97-10) - £11.13

 

PACE Remote Filer Housing: (Filter Housing Thread/Pitch TBC)

2x -10 JIC Male to 5/8 BSP Male Adaptors (MOCMMS0-10-10) £2.77ea

2x 5/8 BSP 90deg (MOCHEFP93-10) - £9.71ea

 

PACE Oil Filter Adaptor:

1x -10 45deg (???) - £??

 

PACE Oil Tank:

2x -12 45deg (???) - £??ea

 

Socketless Hoses:

3 Meters -12 @ £9.94per metre

1 Meter -10 @ £9.32

 

NOTE: When ordering the Remote Filter Housing, PACE need to know whether you want a Left to Right or Right to Left Flow, this is very very important and normally the only reason for a failure in the Dry Sump system as they cannot be used either way. I require a Right To Left if you were facing the housing with the filter sticking out to you.

 

To get more of an idea behind my choice of fittings above ill try and explain where i intend to fit the Remote Filter Housing and Oil Tank so to hopefully make more sense, if you can think of any issues of these placements im more than happy to receive ideas etc.

 

Remote Filter Housing:

This will be fitted to a bracket dropping down from the inside of the drivers side chassis leg as far forward as possible round abouts where the std tow eye bracket drops down from. This means i need a 90deg fitting from the Pump and a 90deg fitting into the Housing then a 90deg fitting out of the Housing into a 45deg fitting into the block adapter plate.

 

Oil Tank:

PACE strongley recommend this to be fitted as close to the pump as possible and i can think of nothing worse than running more pipework through the interior so my plan is because the Oil Tank is so damm tall at 16" plus 1.25" for the Breather hoses and filler cap i will relocate the Coolant Header Tank to the inside of the Suspension Turrot above the Gearbox Mount as high as possible and then mount the tank as high as possible clearing the underside of the bonnet where the Header tank used to mount. Using 45deg fittings will send the lower feed pipe from the bottom of the tank under the exhaust manifold down the back of the engine (which has been recommended doing by Mass Racing) to the pump and the top return fitting could be a 90deg but running the hose up and over the top of the gearbox (as i dont think there is enough room or is safe to run underneath and get up past the driveshafts/diff housing) could cause too much of a bend in the hose to get into the 90deg fitting so a 45deg i think is more suited.

 

 

The 45deg Demon Tweeks part numbers are missing above because DT only seem to supply these fitting in BSP Thread and not -10 JIC but i know Moquip to supply these so a phone call is going to happen to DT to enquire.

 

So sorry for the long winded post but i think i have extensively covered everything needed and costs and placements for the whole build so i really hope the hours of research i have done into this helps you out.

 

As said i will contact Mark at PACE and ask what he can offer for a Group Buy of 3 or more systems.

 

Best Regards

 

Simon

 

SOME PICS SENT MY MARK AT PACE:

 

post-11100-0-65836900-1304786590_thumb.jpg

post-11100-0-25987500-1304786597_thumb.jpg

post-11100-0-13460400-1304786604_thumb.jpg

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post-11100-0-63048600-1304786628_thumb.jpg

post-11100-0-66841000-1304786637_thumb.jpg

post-11100-0-42447500-1304786649_thumb.jpg

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wardy18

More pics:

post-11100-0-24906000-1304786766_thumb.jpg

post-11100-0-22004000-1304786779_thumb.jpg

post-11100-0-13144600-1304786785_thumb.jpg

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AlexN

I hope you don't mind me posting this in your thread but if you need an extra person to arrange a good discount for a group buy then count me in as I am very very interested!

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wardy18

Not a problem mate, i will get it in the Group Buy thread later on to give the opportunity to everyone as its open to anyone, the more the better!!

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petert

How wiill you block off the filler neck and return tubes on the block?

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wardy18

In my case I use a Mocal Catch Tank as my filler so Rocker and Block breathers route to the catch tank which has a breathable gauze filtered screw cap then this drains directly back down to the sump.

 

Fitting a dry sump I dont see will have any affect on this breather/filler system and will leave me with no pipes needed to blocked off at all.

 

The dry sump system simply replaces the sump and oil pump set up and pumps oil directly into the block via the adaptor plate now in place of the old screw on filter.

 

If you are thinking otherwise please explain as I'm open to suggestions and advice and as always still learning about these developments as I look to build them into my build.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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petert

The two pipes circled.

post-2864-0-70863800-1304854341_thumb.jpg

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Dj_mini

You will need to block off all breathers or pipe them in to the pace oil tank this prevents the system sucking air in as the crank case get put under a small bit of pressure with dry sump system i had problems with this on my old mi lump in the end with help from pace i fitted a breather with a one way valve to allow air out but not to be sucked back in.

 

Have you asked mark about a bit more discount if we buy a few at a time? if not i will give him a ring in the week.

 

Dan

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wardy18

Oh really, thanks, I didn't know the normal breather system had to be removed. In my case then can I not just seal the breather cap on my catch tank so that the system cannot breath?? Does this mean the rocker breather gets blanked off too?? How does the rocker and crank breath without this circulation system in place?

 

I'll give Mark a call Tuesday and see what group discounts he can give, so far it seems we need 4 systems!

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Cameron

I think the crankcase breathes through the oil tank instead.

 

Yeah I'm 100% up for a group buy, then I can start running slicks. :D

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Dj_mini

Yeah all the crank pressure goes back to main oil tank that then breaths out (you will need a catch tank for the main oil tank) but all breathers on the engine must be sealed to stop air sucking in.

You could just seal your cap but i would just ditch the whole lot as its not needed and its extra weight ;)

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wardy18

Yeah all the crank pressure goes back to main oil tank that then breaths out (you will need a catch tank for the main oil tank) but all breathers on the engine must be sealed to stop air sucking in.

You could just seal your cap but i would just ditch the whole lot as its not needed and its extra weight ;)

 

Ok thanks for the insight, as said always learning about these things. I hadn't tackled the catch tank for the oil tank yet so this has killed 2 birds with one stone and the catch tank is currently fitted right next to where I want the oil to go too!! I assume the return pipe from the catch tank will be blanked off as there is no return back into the oil tank so will need to be manually drained?

 

Also in reply to Petert original question, I'll remove the long return pipe down into the std sump and plug the hole and also do the same to the crank breather which isn't in the place in the photo Petert attached, mine is higher up and sticks straight out towards the starter motor, Mass already plugged one hole at the rear so I'll do the same for these 2, don't like the thought of just jubilee clipping a hose with a blanking plug in!! Will have a think about the rocker breather!!

Edited by wardy18

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Cameron

Weld it up! :D

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wardy18

But what about my lovely paintwork.... ;)

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Cameron

Re-paint it you tart. :P

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wardy18

Haha that means I'll have to peel off Mass racings identity plate!! But on a serious note do you mean cut the take off pipe off and weld/grind it smooth or just weld the hole closed in the top of the take off. Suppose either is acceptable really, another jon for the old man I think!!

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Cameron

You could do either but it'd look loads better if you cut the pipe off and welded the rocker cover smooth. :)

 

You can always mask up the Mass logo too! :D

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wardy18

Hey that plate cost me alot of money and will come with me to my grave :)

 

Yeh smooth is the better option definitely!

 

My plan is to gather all parts by the end of the month when I have a hillclimb on the 30th then I have 2 weeks/weekends to get the system fitted with all the extra jobs we have discussed ie removal of breather system, blanking breather holes and routing new breather hoses from oil tank! There's nothing like giving myself plenty of time for these upgrade!!!!

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Cameron

Yikes! And you probably want to have it up and running again within 1 of those weeks so you have time to test it and make sure it works! :o

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wardy18

Yeh but if it's too tight I'll just miss the 1/4 sprint on the 18th June as I wasn't going to do this event without the dry sump fitted anyway so not that bothered!

 

2 weekends should be enough to fit it if I relocate my header tank and position the oil tank before my event on the 30th May, I can't see the fitting of the dry sump itself taking more than a full day depending on clearance issues with my 96mm crank counter weights!!

 

If I pre prepare the hoses and oil/breather tanks I should be good!

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Cameron

That's the spirit! :D Yeah it shouldn't be a big deal, it's pretty much plug & play isn't it?

 

(Fully aware that I may have just totally jinxed you, sorry! :lol: )

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