205 Specialist In South Devon

[simsk 1]

Hello all, does anyone know of any 205 specialists in the south devon area?

 

i need to get my mi up and running asap, the guy trying to fix it has given it back to me. the enignes all in, it just needs the electrics sorting out to make it run.

 

cheers keir

[Batfink 201]

Sandy!

[CaptainK 11]

+1 on Sandy, but he's not south devon. He's above Launceston in Cornwall. A fair hike from South Devon, especially if the 205 isn't driveable at the moment.

[luggy 13]

What Mi setup have you got?, standard inlet or carbs? Have you got the old GTI loom and Mi loom?, if you have why not have a go yourself

 

I believe Sandy is based around Truro

[danpug 1]

Sandy's in St. Austell (not far from Truro). Worth a pm to see if he can help but hes normally pretty busy!

[Junosix 0]

He's worth the trek, though!

[Batfink 201]

it does not look too far on the map but you couldnt push it there

[simsk 1]

cheers for the replys guys, truro is a couple hours drive away. and with it not being driveable is a pain. Its definetaly an option at the moment tho. i had to cut a couple pf plugs off the 8v loom and the loom that came with the car isnt in great condition. was plannning on buying one off ebay but missed out on it.

 

ive been advised to buy an omex 600 ecu and fit that. what do you reckon?

 

cheers keir

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Even if you buy an Omex you'll still need a loom made.

 

Roughly, if a new Omex is about £500, a custom made loom may be another £200 plus. Be prepared for this.

 

However, if you have an Mi ECU and some complete OE loom, I'm quite sure either you could do it, or someone could pay you a visit for a few hours and give some pointers.

 

I could do that, but not until around 25th November when I'm down in Okehampton, but cutting about (as I do) to visit Sandy and Steve@Cornwall who's down in Truro.

 

Failing that, there are 2 other options to get expertise I know and trust:

 

** you need to speak with Sandy and find a way to get the car to their workshop for a week

** or have a visit from someone to your place such as Steve@Cornwall or someone else with Mi/loom knowledge who'd help out (for beer tokens...)

 

There are lots of resources on here, and if you get stuck in - and yes, I know it's tough, I've been there - once you attack a loom, learn about it and understand it you'll get the reward and wonder what all the fuss was about.

 

Rich

[hexhamstu 9]

Send the loom and multiplugs to miles, to have him convert it and what not. Then its just plug and play?

Edited November 2, 2009 by hexhamstu

[GLPoomobile 958]

i had to cut a couple pf plugs off the 8v loom and the loom that came with the car isnt in great condition.

 

I'd say you can probably sort this out without the need to take the car anywhere. But I think you need to qualify the statement above. What's wrong with the supplied loom? What plugs have you cut off? Do you have everything you need, or are there parts missing, or do you not know? Is everything in tact under the dash where the 2 brown plugs are? If you struggle to answer any of this, then pics would help.

 

Basically, the point I'm driving at (as others have said), is that it probably won't be that difficult to sort out yourself. Sending the loom to Miles would defo be a good idea, providing everything else in the car is OK and ready for the new loom to be plugged in when it comes back. If the loom you have just has a few dodgy wires or missing connectors etc, then consider repairing it yourself, it really isn't difficult. You could even build a new loom yourself, again not difficult, just requires patience and a small investment in some basic tools. I did this (using the original MI loom as a template) and I have very little in the way of electrical knowledge, and my skills amounted to poor soldering eforts prior to this So if I can do it, anyone can!

 

P.S. I did this topic when I was doing my loom. It might be of interest...

I'd like to build a complete OE engine management loom

Edited November 2, 2009 by GLPoomobile

[hexhamstu 9]

I'd say you can probably sort this out without the need to take the car anywhere. But I think you need to qualify the statement above. What's wrong with the supplied loom? What plugs have you cut off? Do you have everything you need, or are there parts missing, or do you not know? Is everything in tact under the dash where the 2 brown plugs are? If you struggle to answer any of this, then pics would help.

 

Basically, the point I'm driving at (as others have said), is that it probably won't be that difficult to sort out yourself. Sending the loom to Miles would defo be a good idea, providing everything else in the car is OK and ready for the new loom to be plugged in when it comes back. If the loom you have just has a few dodgy wires or missing connectors etc, then consider repairing it yourself, it really isn't difficult. You could even build a new loom yourself, again not difficult, just requires patience and a small investment in some basic tools. I did this (using the original MI loom as a template) and I have very little in the way of electrical knowledge, and my skills amounted to poor soldering eforts prior to this So if I can do it, anyone can!

 

P.S. I did this topic when I was doing my loom. It might be of interest...

I'd like to build a complete OE engine management loom

 

I demand you make an easy to decipher schematic, that includes part numbers for plugs and connectors used. maybe even length of wires? I would happily pay you 10 of the queens pounds for this. Or send me the loom to copy and I will draw a how-to guide.

[GLPoomobile 958]

I demand you make an easy to decipher schematic, that includes part numbers for plugs and connectors used. maybe even length of wires? I would happily pay you 10 of the queens pounds for this. Or send me the loom to copy and I will draw a how-to guide.

 

I could do that (for a 2 row). In fact I already have a schematic, which Veero used and modified for his 3 row build. It's a bit basic (drawn using Excel with coloured cells to represent wires ) but it does the job. This sort of thing is more Rich's expertise, he's far better at putting together nicely constructed diagrams. I can't include wiring lengths though, as mine was customised to how I wanted to route it, rather than being a carbon copy of the original, and I didn't make a note of the lengths when I did it.

Edited November 2, 2009 by GLPoomobile

[hexhamstu 9]

I could do that (for a 2 row). In fact I already have a schematic, which Veero used and modified for his 3 row build. It's a bit basic (drawn using Excel with coloured cells to represent wires ) but it does the job. This sort of thing is more Rich's expertise, he's far better at putting together nicely constructed diagrams. I can't include wiring lengths though, as mine was customised to how I wanted to route it, rather than being a carbon copy of the original, and I didn't make a note of the lengths when I did it.

 

Could you email me it?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I will be starting to make loom kits. This is about supporting the forum as well as supply and demand.

 

I have diagrams for 3-row and generic aftermarket ECU installations including looms.

 

But with both of the above, wire lengths is going to be a sticky subject, as not everyone installs their ECU or ignition amp for example in the same place. Some will also have a MAP sensor, or O2 or knock sensor.

 

This means custom really is what it says it is.

 

That's not to say this is impossible, far from it, but it may mean for example a custom loom 'off the shelf' my need a certain portion extending to make a plug reach the ign amp. Otherwise, the buyer just ticks a box for the loom maker (perhaps me or Miles) on where the ign amp and ECU are located.

 

I can post my 3-row diagrams if that's what the OP needs. This has pin numbers and all parts labelled. This will help him install the current loom he has (if usable) or make a new one; but measurements for wire lengths will have to be made.

[hexhamstu 9]

I would love to see your 3-row diagrams!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I would love to see your 3-row diagrams!

 

PM me your e-mail address if you want them.

Edited November 2, 2009 by DrSarty

[simsk 1]

ok guys, cheers for the help. just to explain the situation a little bit more, im going to say that the loom that was originally in the car when i bought it, was not original. it was put together by a guy that worked for peugeot/citroen back in the day. he moulded the 8v and 16v loom into one.

 

now the guys that where trying to make it work said that it was bodged and didnt work. ive just got the car back from them and havent had a chance to see what state it has been left in.

 

i'll try and have a look in the dark tonight when i get home from work and hopefully take some photos. this might help explain the situation.

 

thanks again for the help and advice, hopefully i can come to some sort of decision and get this problem solved for once.

 

cheers keir

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I wouldn't bother trying to take pictures in the dark.

 

What you should tell/show us, is:

 

What ECU & where is it? (number off the top of the ECU will help)

Where is your ignition amp?

Where does the loom come through the bulkhead?

What works at the moment - does it turn over, do any dials and warning lights spring to life?

Are the two relays in the loom?

Has the tachy relay (under the dash - up near the OE ECU position to the right of the steering column) been incorporated?

Does the fuel pump prime?

What connectors are there on the loom? (Should be injs x 4, ign amp, coil, ECU water temp sender, Fast idle valve, AFM and TPS - that plus solenoid & FP wires (FP controlled by tachy relay or direct from the ECU), power and earth is all you need to make the car run).

 

Good luck.

[GLPoomobile 958]

I'd also ask those guys to explain exactly what it is from their perspective that isn't working, and why they think it is a bodge. Could be something sooooo simple that is wrong, but has got them scratching their heads because they aren't famliar with it.

[simsk 1]

i'll check it out tonight, when i installed the loom that i had it was turning over but there was no igntion part of the loom and i didnt manage to get the fuel pump hooked up either.

 

they did say at one point that they had made the ignition part of the loom and had it sparking. so i thought great problem solved. then they came back to me and said that because the loom was bodged it was shorting out or something and thats why it wouldnt run. not sure if they got it fueling in the end. i'll have a look at what they actually did when i get in.

 

cheers

Edited November 2, 2009 by simsk

[Sandy 191]

Thanks for the +ves, but I don't think I could help at the moment. Good luck with it

[GLPoomobile 958]

I've uploaded my 2 row schematic on to Mediafile, and added the link to the topic I linked to earlier.

[simsk 1]

I wouldn't bother trying to take pictures in the dark.

 

What you should tell/show us, is:

 

What ECU & where is it? (number off the top of the ECU will help)

Where is your ignition amp?

Where does the loom come through the bulkhead?

What works at the moment - does it turn over, do any dials and warning lights spring to life?

Are the two relays in the loom?

Has the tachy relay (under the dash - up near the OE ECU position to the right of the steering column) been incorporated?

Does the fuel pump prime?

What connectors are there on the loom? (Should be injs x 4, ign amp, coil, ECU water temp sender, Fast idle valve, AFM and TPS - that plus solenoid & FP wires (FP controlled by tachy relay or direct from the ECU), power and earth is all you need to make the car run).

 

Good luck.

 

This is from what i could gather last night:

 

The ECU number is 0261 200 119 and is located in the drivers footwell at present but fits in the original postion under the steering column. (ive always been interested to know what ECU it is)

 

The ignition amp is mounted just behind the battery on the inside of the wing below the suspension mount.

 

The loom comes through the bulkhead by the ECU and re-enters by the fuse box.

 

There are two relays by the Brake servo and a blue diagnostics plug.

 

Im pretty sure the tacho relay was there but i couldnt seem to find it last night.

 

I havent yet managed to put power on the car yet, so hopefully do that tonight.

 

All the connectors are there, but originally the ones missing where for the coil and ignition amp (now in place). Im not sure if the fuel pump wires or solenoid are there too. Can someone please tell me what these are and where?

 

cheers keir

 

Thats a really neat diagram GLP! Bit of a stupid question but whats the difference between the 2 row and 3 row ECU?

Edited November 3, 2009 by simsk

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Good reply. I'll give it a good look later and try and help. Looks more promising now though I reckon.

 

2-row and 3-row is a simple way of identifying the ECU families (basically old to new), where we're referring to the number of horizontal rows of pins on the ECU plug.

 

Yours is a * *** *** 119 which is a 2-row, so you have an older (original Mi16 alloy block) ECU, which does not run knock sensor or lambda.

 

We'll get there, but you should start matching connectors to what they fit, eg AFM, TPS, coil etc. Only one plug on the loom will fit each of these items.

 

See how you get on. Your solenoid/starter wire will be a thick, pale blue wire most likely with a female spade connector on. It fixes to the male spade on the solenoid piggy-backed to the starter motor.

 

The attached document may help you out a little bit if you study it.

Simsk_Motronic_4.1.pdf

Edited November 3, 2009 by DrSarty