First 205, Some Info Would Be Nice.

[admipug 0]

Alright fellas the names ad i joined yesterday, i'm a 20 year old mechanic from the midlands but enough of that crap,

 

As the title says really, swapped my mx5 for a H plate, sorrento Mi16 2 weeks ago and now i'm waiting for 21st bday on the 28th november so i can insure it

 

The cars pretty well specced from what i can tell:

 

1.9 Mi16 lump and loom from a BX gti,

Peter taylor re-profiled inlet cam,

Engines been top and tailed, - gaskets, seals, belts, rings, liners, shells, re ground crank etc.

QEP head rebuild and re shim, 3 angle seats,

Full stainless jetex system,

Bilsteins all round -25mm, rebuilt rear beam,

206 Gti180 front brake setup, goodridge stainless hoses all round and all new copper lines.

 

So ive had the car up on the ramp this last week taking in all that i can visually, never even saw an Mi16 engine in the flesh before so i'm in at the deep end really.

 

When i took delivery of the car the following problems were noted:

 

Rev counter not working (sorted now),

Oil leak from sump,

Front grille needed respraying (also sorted),

Bouncy gauges - oil pressure particularly and sometimes speedo,

Oil temp gauge? (top right hand side) not working - no wires coming from the sender in the sump??

 

After sorting the rev counter problem and stripping and repairing part of the ignition loom to the amp and coil i got the rev counter working but the car ran like crap.

 

So todays session involved cleaning all earthing points up on the car (some were real shabby) and clean up connector plugs to MAF, ignition amp and coil. Also found a small water leak from the thermostat housing which on next weeks to do list aswell as the sump and sealing the exhaust system up.

 

Touch wood the car now drives sweet again, no cutting out under load and no hesitance/hunting etc. Pretty sure it was an earthing problem but there you go.

 

So without rambling too much more i need to put a few questions to you:

 

1) The sump has a spacer wedged between itself and the block? I take it there are no gaskets for the mating faces and you simply seal them them with i setting sealant?

2) What phase is my car and what is the engine code of the 1.9 Mi16 lump - XU9J4? sorry but im used to VW engines and all these long winded closely related engine codes are pretty confusing to begin with lol,

3) What colour wiring am i looking for to connect my oil temp. gauge?

 

Thats pretty much all for now, looking forward to some replies -any info you need on MOT issues let me know as i'm pretty clued up.

 

Cheers lads,

 

Ad.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

1) The sump has a spacer wedged between itself and the block? I take it there are no gaskets for the mating faces and you simply seal them them with i setting sealant?

2) What phase is my car and what is the engine code of the 1.9 Mi16 lump - XU9J4? sorry but im used to VW engines and all these long winded closely related engine codes are pretty confusing to begin with lol,

3) What colour wiring am i looking for to connect my oil temp. gauge?

 

Hi Ad. Welcome.

 

1) If you have a 405 Haynes manual it shows the sump spacer is fitted with a gasket only on one side. Go top right, look up the member M@tt and in his sig is a PDF of the manual. It's in there. The bottom ends can be awkward to seal.

 

2) XU9J4 is the 10.4:1 std Mi16 alloy block engine. There are some low comp versions. Look rear left of your block for an ID plate riveted to the block near the top. (XU9JA is 1.9 GTI (8v) - XU5JA is 1.6 - XU10J4/R and RS are the iron block versions up to and including the GTI6)

 

3) If there's no wire from the sender in the sump then it doesn't matter. But it would go to pin 7 on the 9-pin brown multi plug under the steering column.

 

Hope that helps. PeterT cams are excellent. Get the timing right to capitalise on it.

 

P.S. Speedo needles often bounce because the lube in the drive cable dries out by being so close to the exhaust manifold. Either remove and re-lube or replace.

Edited October 17, 2009 by DrSarty

[admipug 0]

Hi Ad. Welcome.

 

1) If you have a 405 Haynes manual it shows the sump spacer is fitted with a gasket only on one side. Go top right, look up the member M@tt and in his sig is a PDF of the manual. It's in there. The bottom ends can be awkward to seal.

 

2) XU9J4 is the 10.4:1 std Mi16 alloy block engine. There are some low comp versions. Look rear left of your block for an ID plate riveted to the block near the top. (XU9JA is 1.9 GTI (8v) - XU5JA is 1.6 - XU10J4/R and RS are the iron block versions up to and including the GTI6)

 

3) If there's no wire from the sender in the sump then it doesn't matter. But it would go to pin 7 on the 9-pin brown multi plug under the steering column.

 

Hope that helps. PeterT cams are excellent. Get the timing right to capitalise on it.

 

P.S. Speedo needles often bounce because the lube in the drive cable dries out by being so close to the exhaust manifold. Either remove and re-lube or replace.

 

 

Thanks for the quick reply mate, i appreciate the advice.

 

The cam timing was setup by QEP so i think that base is covered - i've never driven an Mi16 before but my god it does shift a bit, just seems to pulls harder and harder until it's cog changin' time! Can't wait to hit the roads.

 

I'll have a look at the back of the block for engine number, i've just had a quick look through the 405 manual but didn't see anything specific on the sump but i'll look again in the morning - failing that i'll get on the blower to peugeot and see what they have listed.

 

You reckon it's gonna be a bit of a pain to get the sump to seal then? I reckon i'll probably seal it up on a saturday and leave it till monday before i fill her up with oil, it's what i usually do with gasket'less sumps and it hasn't failed me yet touch wood.

 

To be honest i can live with the speedo as it is and i'll simply replace once it packs up, was just wondering if the problem may have been clock/related that's all, and as for the oil temp. gauge i can live without it as i've never had one in a previous car.

 

Just read through your saab/e36 hybrid thread, haha sounds like a right laugh how come you've shelved the idea?

 

Oh and how does a 2.2 Mi drive?

 

Thanks again,

 

ad.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Any Alloy to Alloy surface just use RTV, If it's got a tin sump then a gasket is required. It's not a spacer plate either, It strengthen's the block skirt as the sumps are all the same depth.

The engine type is on the front of the block just behind the engine mount, it will say D6B for example not XU9J4, The engine number is still there is just under the servo on the top most part of the block, Depending on age the number can wash off, Fall off etc

Wiring, Good luck most are well bodged in, But I was trained on Battleships and Sub's so my standards on wiring are better than most

Edited October 17, 2009 by Miles